Stops on seat rail

[Rjfanjet]

Another new owner question. 

I have a cotter pin keeping the seats from rolling off the track at the aft end. The parts catalog doesn't show a fantastic picture. Are the pins the only requirement, or should there be something a little more substantial?

Thanks

1968C

[ShuRugal]

Just the cotter pins, as far as I know. As long as they are the correct size, and your track and seat are not worn out, they're all that's needed.

[lamont337]

Mine have a clevis pin secured by a cotter pin. Discussed in this thread:

 

[Rjfanjet]

Thanks

[PT20J]

Cotter pins are AN380-5-3/ MS24665-418

Alternately, you can use 8-32 screws with nuts and bushings as on the later models.

Skip

 

[carusoam]

60’s M20C solution was the cotter pins...

If the pins failed... the seat bumped the back seat before they fell off...

In a longer plane a more substantial solution is desired... there is an extra 10” to slide back before the back seat becomes involved...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

[gsxrpilot]

Cotter pin's in my K.

[tmo]

I believe I've seen mention of nonSTCed 2x4 pieces of wood strategically placed behind the seat rails as a fail-safe around here somewhere...

[aviatoreb]

1 hour ago, tmo said:

I believe I've seen mention of nonSTCed 2x4 pieces of wood strategically placed behind the seat rails as a fail-safe around here somewhere...

That’s my idea I think - no stc needed.

[RLCarter]

Too bad these won’t fit the rails

[ArtVandelay]

My J has a clamp thingy on the rear, just screws on the front.

[M20F-1968]

These Cessna seat stops can be made to work on the Mooney seat rails.  

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/saftstop.php

The problem with them out of the box is that the opening (narrow most part of internal extrusion) is not wide enough.  This can be fixed by milling the opening wider.  You can use a straight endmill if you mount the part in a angled drill press vise and bolt it to the milling machine table.  I can slide the part onto the Mooney seat rail and tighten it down.  That is at the stage I am at now.  Given there is not much room back there between the cotter pin stop and the rear of the seat, I am looking into how long I want them to be.  If they are longer than needed, they will limit seat travel and make it hared to get in and out.  I may be able to gain an inch or so if I drill a new hole for the cotter pin.  Having a back-up to the seat pins makes sense.  Still experimenting.

John Breda

[M20F-1968]

These Cessna seat stops can be made to work on the Mooney seat rails.  

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/saftstop.php

The problem with them out of the box is that the opening (narrow most part of internal extrusion) is not wide enough.  This can be fixed by milling the opening wider.  You can use a straight endmill if you mount the part in a angled drill press vise and bolt it to the milling machine table.  I can slide the part onto the Mooney seat rail and tighten it down.  That is at the stage I am at now.  Given there is not much room back there between the cotter pin stop and the rear of the seat, I am looking into how long I want them to be.  If they are longer than needed, they will limit seat travel and make it hared to get in and out.  I may be able to gain an inch or so if I drill a new hole for the cotter pin.  Having a back-up to the seat pins makes sense.  Still experimenting.

John Breda

1 hour ago, RLCarter said:

Too bad these won’t fit the rails

They will fit with modification.   See my post.

John Breda

[RLCarter]

1 hour ago, M20F-1968 said:

These Cessna seat stops can be made to work on the Mooney seat rails.........

John Breda

Will have to take a closer look seeing how I have 3 axis mill already 

[Yetti]

2 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

These Cessna seat stops can be made to work on the Mooney seat rails.  

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/saftstop.php

The problem with them out of the box is that the opening (narrow most part of internal extrusion) is not wide enough.  This can be fixed by milling the opening wider.  You can use a straight endmill if you mount the part in a angled drill press vise and bolt it to the milling machine table.  I can slide the part onto the Mooney seat rail and tighten it down.  That is at the stage I am at now.  Given there is not much room back there between the cotter pin stop and the rear of the seat, I am looking into how long I want them to be.  If they are longer than needed, they will limit seat travel and make it hared to get in and out.  I may be able to gain an inch or so if I drill a new hole for the cotter pin.  Having a back-up to the seat pins makes sense.  Still experimenting.

John Breda

So if you are going to break out the mill.....  Why not just make your own from alum stock.

Edited May 8, 2020 by Yetti

[M20F-1968]

2 hours ago, RLCarter said:

Will have to take a closer look seeing how I have 3 axis mill already 

A 2 axis mill and a drill press vise that can be angled and has the tangs to bolt it down is sufficient.  You can do it with about a 1/4" straight end mill.

John Breda

[M20F-1968]

2 hours ago, Yetti said:

So if you are going to break out the mill.....  Why not just make your own from alum stock.

The originals are extruded aluminum.  It would cost you much more in time and labor to make them from solid aluminum.  These parts are not expensive compared to what it would take to make them.

John Breda

[EricJ]

9 hours ago, tmo said:

I believe I've seen mention of nonSTCed 2x4 pieces of wood strategically placed behind the seat rails as a fail-safe around here somewhere...

 

8 hours ago, aviatoreb said:

That’s my idea I think - no stc needed.

The 2x4's need to come from a sawmill with PMA!! 

 

[ShuRugal]

Are the mill and saw compliant with AC 43.13?