ShuRugal

Not for permanent installation, no. You have to remove it before flight. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

If you want to use the AV link, check that the software already in the unit supports it. I tried to use it to update mine, only to find out that it didn't, and trying wiped the operating system on the AV-30. Fortunately, I'm used to working with Cisco and Juniper network appliances, which also shit out their OS at the first sign of trouble, so I was able to get the uAvionix tech support guys to walk me through putting it into bootloader mode and putting the OS back into it with the serial cable. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself if you're not already quite comfortable with getting into the angry ones and zeros. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

The AV-30 has an installation options page which allows you to precisely adjust the roll and pitch zeroes. The latest software update appears to have addressed the tendency to show a turn in the opposite direction when leveling out from a long sustained turn. I believe this was caused by a routine which mimics that same behavior in a vacuum gyro being a bit too aggressive, but nobody from Avidyne has confirmed that for me. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Don't get hung up on EGT. The number will change based on ambient conditions. CHT is the critical number. If you're seeing no higher than 400 during a full power climb, you're doing it right. The EGT numbers will vary as much as a couple hundred degrees between aircraft, even running the exact same engine, mixture, and power. This is because there is no fixed/measured position for the EGT probe in the exhaust tube, and each probe has its own thermal properties. The EGT for my plane at a given power will not be the same as the EGT for yours. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

That's not a momentary switch, it's a toggle action/latching switch. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Say mean things about it until it shrivels up enough to be removed. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

I believe that in both cases, the control on the dash just moves a valve on the pump block via a cable. I would expect that the lever assembly should functionally work perfectly well in the place of the knob assembly, though you probably need a good amount of hardware for it. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

If you put an F tail on a C, does it also get the F VNE rating, since VNE on the C is limited by stabilizer flutter? Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

I wouldn't go for the 430. Garmin has been working to kill it off and coerce people to upgrade to a newer model line for years. If something ever breaks in the 430, you'll be hit with a flat-rate repair charge for it (until Garmin discontinues that service), and the price for that repair has only been climbing. Better to save your money and buy a unit which is still actually in production. If your panel has space for a 430, then it also has space for an Avidyne 440, which uses the same tray. I don't know the autopilot compatibility of the Avidyne off the top of my head, though. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

That sounds like a good enough reason to do it to me. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Fair enough. Is that small increase enough to change the cylinder temperature enough to warrant a richer charge? Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Why? The power flow exhaust doesn't increase the air charge coming into the engine, it only reduces exhaust restriction and improves scavenging. The power increase it provides isn't the cylinders making more bang, it just reduces the power wasted forcing exhaust through the inefficient factory pipes, leaving more of that power to exit via the crankshaft instead. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

One thing to watch out for with paved ends: the transition from pavement to dirt will erode rapidly and dramatically compared to the rest of the dirt, especially when it rains. You'll need to regularly inspect and repair those transitions, if you go that route Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Sounds like a failing master relay. The switch on your panel doesn't energize the panel, it only energizes a relay which energizes the main bus. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Pull the suction screen and check it for debris. That much of a drop without a change in engine RPM suggests either a leak or a loss of oil pickup. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Maybe sink a well to supply a drip-style irrigation system to keep the dust down? Probably cheaper to just pave the runway. Save you from replacing blades. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

The -A1D on our C models does not have a primer pump. It does have an accelerator pump inside the carburetor, however, and that is what 'primes' the engine when you tickle it with the throttle. That said, our carbureted engines are usually pretty good about starting up, as long as there is fuel in the carburetor bowl, unless it's very cold outside. What I suspect may be the case for you is that you had a car of vapor lock in the line between the fuel tanks and carb bowl. The electric boost pump is a rotary vane pump and incapable of self priming. If you get air in the line leading to it, it won't fill the carb bowl in prestart. When the happens, the carburetor won't get any fuel until the engine has been turned over enough times for the mechanical pump (which is capable of self priming). This can feel like a VERY long time if you're used to the engine firing on 1-3 blades. Did you happen to notice if you had fuel pressure after running the boost pump, prior to attempting to start? To test your accelerator pump (before you go ripping things off) 1: start the engine 2: warm it up to normal temperature 3: do your run up procedure 4: full rich mixture 5: advance the throttle briskly (1 second from closed to open, smooth motion). The engine should accelerate without any hesitation or coughing. If it does, the accelerator pump is fine, and your starting issue was most likely related to air in the line. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Ask @orionflt about mine.... Apparently a 30 gallon bucket full of concrete is overkill?

Vintage camera supply? Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Something worth considering: how quickly can you get the dog out of the plane in the event that you have a fire? If the crate only opens on the end, and does not open wide enough to get the dog out with the crate on the seat, you'll need to make a plan of action for how to deal with that, including the criteria under which you will abort so you don't burn with the animal. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

I would recommend getting one of those collapsible fabric travel crates. You'll be able to fit much more on the back seat than you can fit through the door, past the yokes, and into the seat. The interior width of my C at the backrest of the rear seats is about 37" at the seat top and about 38" at the seat cushion. Curvature obviously takes away width very rapidly above shoulder height. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

wtf? did the shop just blindly buck all three without making sure they were sticking out the correct amount first???

Someone call Elliot.

FCI resident, never had an issue. If your oil temp is not staying in the green arc in flight, you need to have your vernatherm replaced.

How could you drive a red hot rivet through a lead weight? You'd ruin the weight.