IO-360 replacement, what to install off engine before mounting on plane?

[jkarch]

11 hours ago, PT20J said:

Only a few bolts -- usually in engines -- are one-time use. General purpose hardware can be reused unless it's been over torqued and stretched or otherwise damaged. Lock nuts can be reused unless they run up finger tight. But, hardware is cheap and if you don't know the history of a fastener it's probably best to use new. Years ago during a factory tour someone told me that Al Mooney had calculated that he could use a size smaller on the upper engine mount bolts but thought it didn't look right.

Here's the info on the nuts for for the baffles from the Lycoming IPC. BTW it's best to check all the mounting details with the IPC and Maintenance Manual. Don't just put it back the way you found it without checking because the last person may have done it incorrectly, which is not uncommon on Mooneys I've learned.

Skip

Thanks Skip, I printed this out for my mechanic too!

[jkarch]

15 hours ago, M20Doc said:

Normally the upper bolts pass from the cabin to the engine compartment and are secured with steel lock nuts.  If the bolts need to be pulled to correct the installation I would remove the mount and attach it to the engine, then swing the entire assembly into place and bolt it to the firewall.

The IPC says AN363-428 steel lock nuts.

Clarence

Clarence, this is super helpful by the way, Thank you for that! I'm starting to get all the materials ready for install day now!

[carusoam]

This is going to qualify for the most/best organized engine install in MS history...

Don’t forget the pics!

Best regards,

-a-

[jkarch]

The only remaining component here that I'm not sure about is Lycoming Service instruction No. 1427C.  If I read it right, I'm supposed to take the new engine, do a quick runup, and immediately change the oil,  take out the oil filter and screen and inspect for metal .  Then fly for 2.5 hours on fresh oil one more time, take out the oil filter and screen and change the oil, then run for 10 hours, change the filter and oil, then run for 25 hours or until the consumption has stabilized, then breakin is basically complete.  Is the right, or am I wasting oil and filter too much?

[jkarch]

Just now, carusoam said:

This is going to qualify for the most/best organized engine install in MS history...

Don’t forget the pics!

Best regards,

-a-

I most certainly will document and add back to MS on this change.  It's going to be very similar to the one previously posted, except it seems my prop governor bracket is different than the one shown, and doesn't need some of the strange things like bellcranks and mounts.  This one is closer to the A3B6D, according to Dan at LASAR. I'm looking forward to getting this done.  Firewall forward, with minimally reused parts up front...And a nice new EDM900 to boot.

[jkarch]

One of the fun parts of redoing the mounts...Dye penetration test.

[PT20J]

49 minutes ago, jkarch said:

Thanks Skip, I printed this out for my mechanic too!

If you haven’t removed the baffles from the old engine, they will still be there. It’s easy to overlook them and send them back with the core, or have them fall out and get lost when you remove the baffles. They are $35.60 each from Aircraft Spruce. 

[jkarch]

7 minutes ago, PT20J said:

If you haven’t removed the baffles from the old engine, they will still be there. It’s easy to overlook them and send them back with the core, or have them fall out and get lost when you remove the baffles. They are $35.60 each from Aircraft Spruce. 

I'll certainly make sure they are removed,  I removed some of the baffles so far but not every single baffle.  I bought new Baffles from Airforms in Alaska, so I haven't completely gone through the old engine. -J

[Gagarin]

I added an extra washer to the bottom Lord Mounts to lift the engine a little bit. This keep the engine from sagging to the bottom cowling piece. after 1000hrs glad I did it.

[PT20J]

Also, keep in mind that the J cowl tends to lift up with air loads in flight. You can have perfect alignment with the spinner after you install the cowling and then after flight it can look like the engine is 1/4 to 1/2 inch low. If you are good at composite construction (I’m not — I look like a three stooges routine when I get around glue) Byron @jetdriven has a thread somewhere about how he fixed his.

Skip