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About jkarch

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  1. I once did Seattle to Rapid City and still had 22 gallons left on my J.
  2. If the cylinder in the back is hot then it could be a baffling issue if the EGTs are uniform
  3. Strange, I had a problem with a misfire in a #1 Cyl harness and #1 ran cooler though with higher EGTs
  4. Is #2 in the back on a 252? On a 201 #2 is left front.
  5. Except my plane's story also started in Stockton California. It sat out in Hayward unflown for a few months before I bought it. While I like Top Gun, they actually did not check my oil filter during the prebuy because there were so few hours on it. I found the first evidence of corrosion after my first oil change with metal in the oil filter. There is no doubt an engine that's that old with low hours has a risk of having a bad cam. In fact Lycoming specifically says TBO is xxx hours or 12 years, so technically speaking, the engine is technically timed out, though Mike Busch would vehemently disagree.. If it sat in a dry hangar in Arizona, perhaps it's low risk. But the Bay Area didn't save me from a bad cam. I would also say the next time I consider buying a new plane, I'd rather get one with a lot of hours on the engine, and do the overhaul myself. A friend of mine just bought a Mooney, and while the engine technically has 700 hours left on it, due to its age he negotiated it as a run out engine. So if you get a plane with 700 hours on it after 14 years, it's like playing Russian Roulette if you price it as an airplane with 700 SMOH. Maybe treat it as 1400 SMOH and if you're lucky you'll get 700 more hours out of it. And I can assure you I'm not the only datapoint. The bad cam problem is common enough to be concerned about.
  6. Yup, just went through this. 1200 SMOH in 2005, bad Cam. I'll be posting my story soon. I've been off line 4 months. If the plane has only flown like 700 hours since then, run, don't walk away...
  7. Top Gun will give you a 10k estimate on a bird that's in good condition to start! That's what mine was when I bought the plane. I put 5k into it and dabbled away at the rest over 5 years. Until the Bad Cam eventually showed its ugly lobe.
  8. I took the spacer from my old old alternator! Thank you! All good now.
  9. Does seem like the easiest solution is to take the plane power alternator though I have the spacer from my old ford alternator too
  10. I was thinking of that but my PP alternator is 7 years old. Thoughts? Is it still worth it to keep the PP?
  11. Wire a PIDG (terminal lug) from the clock to any screw post on the instrument panel frame and you’re done!
  12. So I am making progress with the engine change over from the IO-360-A3B6D to the IO360-A3B6. So far everything seems to be going together smoothly other than to say the metal paint Lycoming uses to paint the engines scratches too easily and installling the engine with the mount to the airframe was pretty tough. However I have a small stumper. The Hartzell ALX-8251LS alternator has a fan disk on it behind then pulley which does not fit the baffling without modification. Question is: can that fan disk be removed from the alternator, or should I modify the baffling, or just go back to my old Plane Power alternator? Also note a nice fact, the governor mount recommended by Dan at LASAR gets rid of the need for a fancy bell crank. So far it seems I have full range of motion on the prop control line so fingers crossed for this working.
  13. I tend to travel with redundant cards, just in case I get stuck somewhere or get too many declines while trying to fill. My card also has an app which allows me to turn on travel mode on my phone. It may have happened to me once or twice, so I now double down. Find some guy on the field and paypal him for gas, that's probably your best bet now. -J