ThreeStripedZ Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 A couple of questions: (1) Has anyone experienced a Johnson bar coming out of the locked position on landing? (2) Can side-loading the main gear (such as landing slightly crabbed into a crosswind) cause the gear to force the Johnson bar out of the "up and locked" position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepingsquirrel Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi , good luck with your gear. I found this to be great information as a new Mooney owner especially the fingernail test. "Another check to make sure the gear is down and locked is the thumbnail check. See photo #9 Safely latched, you will not be able to slide your thumbnail between the sleeve and retainer block." http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Manual%20Gear%20Operation/LANDING_GEAR)OPERATION.HTM I found that pulling up after the Johnson bar was locked into the "down lock receiver" that the thumb nail test would pass. I have had it jump out of the "up lock receiver" and found that the same thing applies there , if I push the handel back once the Johnson bar is in position it securely locks. I have placed my finger in the "up" and "down" lock receivers to see if they were severely rounded which in my mind would make the jumping out more easily happen. I've looked at the overcenter mechanism and I don't believe that it could be overcome by side load but fortunately never had to test that for real. I realize that every sentence here starts with the letter "I" it's because "I " was extremely parionod about my responsibility to get the gear down and locked. Welcome to the forum, I have found very informative a extremely knowledegable aviators here. They helped me through my first months of Mooney ownership and have given me great confidence that I own one of the greatest production aircraft ever made! How long have you been flying the Mooney which model? One other thing, the guy that sold me my Mooney told me , "Sleepingsquirrel , be sure that if the co pilots seat is not occupied, take the latched belt and stuff it through the seats so it will NEVER be in the way as you try to raise the gear and lock it in the up position". I think this advise has saved me skinned knuckels more than once, never mind the distraction trying to get the gear up locked with the seat belt in the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Threestripe, Older worn out receiver blocks have been known to deceive and feel like down and locked. What you described could happen then. If you search on this site you will find fotos of somebody's before and after picture. The old block is actually worn into an oval shape. The new block is perfectly round. Worn or not, down and locked will be down and locked. Make sure each time you have not been deceived. If your receiver block is worn, get it replaced. Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeStripedZ Posted July 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for the info guys. Carusoam - are you saying that whether the block is worn or not, the bar should stay correctly latched if properly locked; but will be less forgiving to improper locking of the bar? Also, I search for threads of "receiver block" "worn block" and a few others...I didn't get any results, what should I be searching for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=723 http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=581 two for you gear block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeStripedZ Posted July 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thank you very much for those threads. I will check my blocks tomorrow or Wednesday - and if even remotely necessary call LASAR for a new part. Do they still the jacking pads, too? One of the last remaining questions: are you saying that whether the block is worn or not, the bar should stay correctly latched if properly locked; but will be less forgiving to improper locking of the bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 You should have a spring loaded button that will not allow the bar to come back out. If that button is locking in position, the gear won't be able to fold up. Keep in mind, if the system is no longer in condition of the original design, and high side loadings can break things. You have to decide these on your own. Grab a mechanic if you need a second opinion. Watch for something that feels like locked, but really isn't. Feel the click, see the handle all the way up, pull on the bar to make sure... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooneyMitch Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Based on past experience with Jolie's E, I strongly recommend replacing the upper and lower blocks with new. LASAR produces them. You may think you are locked in but with the worn blocks, you are at risk for unlock. Git 'er done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 I replaced my block in 2009 and the worn groove was evident. It is well worth replacing if you think it is worn. If the part is availalbe, I'd do it now should parts become an issue for a while. It also made operating the gear much easier, especially locking the gear in place when landing and pulling the gear up when taking off. The groove was causing the Johnson bar to not quite line up right, for lack of a better word, "stick," though not really. It was noticed when I had Tommy at the Freeway MSC fly the plane beause I had some shoulder issues and wanted to know if the feel was right for the Mooney, he flew it, knew something was not right, and the block and maybe one spring/bungee took care of making the gear operation silky smooth. Also, since then my shoudler is much stronger and fully healed now. Take care, -Seth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARZ Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Quote: ThreeStripedZ Thank you very much for those threads. I will check my blocks tomorrow or Wednesday - and if even remotely necessary call LASAR for a new part. Do they still the jacking pads, too? If you are asking about the tie down / jack point kit - yes they do. I just put a set on my plane. $35 + 15 shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immelman Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 If you replace the down-lock casting, note that it affects the gear preloads (think about it, you'll be extending the j-bar furthter "down" to get it locked). Make sure who ever replaces the casting knows how to deal with adjusting the gear preloads. This could be a job for a competent MSC or an A&P who really knows Mooneys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldeano Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Quote: Immelman If you replace the down-lock casting, note that it affects the gear preloads (think about it, you'll be extending the j-bar furthter "down" to get it locked). Make sure who ever replaces the casting knows how to deal with adjusting the gear preloads. This could be a job for a competent MSC or an A&P who really knows Mooneys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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