SantosDumont Posted September 8, 2018 Report Posted September 8, 2018 Anyone else have a quick drain on their engine? I went to change the oil today, drained out all the oil, changed the filter, started pouring in new oil. Got about 3qts in when I saw that the oil drain was leaking out oil. Guess I need a new one of these. Is this something I can replace myself, or do I need an A&P to sign off on it? Quote
Mooneymite Posted September 8, 2018 Report Posted September 8, 2018 Interesting question. Since the FAR's allow an owner to do an oil change, I would opine that an owner could replace the quick drain since it is essentially just a fancy oil drain plug. However, if you make a log-book entry about the quick drain, it may require an A&P sign off. I'm a pilot, not an IA. My opinion is worth less than you paid for it. My hangar elf suggest that when you install the new quick drain, put some anti-seize on the threads. They can be tough to remove. Quote
Guest Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 2 hours ago, SantosDumont said: Anyone else have a quick drain on their engine? I went to change the oil today, drained out all the oil, changed the filter, started pouring in new oil. Got about 3qts in when I saw that the oil drain was leaking out oil. Guess I need a new one of these. Is this something I can replace myself, or do I need an A&P to sign off on it? I would take it out and clean it. The is either something stuck in the O ring or it is damaged. As I recall the earlier red coloured ones have only 1 “O”ring where the newer blue ones have dual “O” rings. You’ll also need a new MS35769-11 or AN900-10 copper gasket to reinstall it. Clarence Quote
jaylw314 Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 I wish somebody made a quick drain like the Fumoto drain valve for auto engines. I like that it requires two movements to open, as opposed to a push-open movement. Quote
SantosDumont Posted September 9, 2018 Author Report Posted September 9, 2018 Hmm... these guys seem to recommend replacing the rubber seals every 10 years.https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/drain-valve-maintenance-tips/content/ I bet if I looked in the logbook I would find that those seals are 20 years old (engine installed in 1998). Just ordered some seals and crush washers, we'll see if I can fix this thing. Quote
Yetti Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 They seem to get installed with sticky stuff. A heat gun seemed to aid in the removal. reinstall with some permetex Quote
Guest tommy123 Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Yetti said: They seem to get installed with sticky stuff. A heat gun seemed to aid in the removal. reinstall with some permetex They get safety wired. Don’t glop sealant on things that aren’t supposed to get sealant. A&P IA opinion. Jeez. Quote
Guest Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 6 hours ago, Guest tommy123 said: They get safety wired. Don’t glop sealant on things that aren’t supposed to get sealant. A&P IA opinion. Jeez. Each Saf-Air oil drain valve that I’ve installed comes with a small tube of thread sealant/lubricant to be applied to the threads. Perhaps you never installed one or read the instructions? Clarence Quote
Yetti Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 6 hours ago, tommy123 said: They get safety wired. Don’t glop sealant on things that aren’t supposed to get sealant. A&P IA opinion. Jeez. The irrelevance of the safety wired is implied in the name of safety wire. Let's see aluminum fitting on what looked to be steel pipe with NPT threads. Do you think you can get NPT threads tight enough to not leak without compromising the aluminum fitting? Quote
Guest Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 The OP’s F model has been modified by installation of an IO-360ES engine. It’s oil sump should have straight cut 5/8-18 threads. Use of thread sealant/ lubricant helps avoid galled/ damaged aluminum threads in the sump and valve. Clarence Quote
Yetti Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 (edited) For a discussion on threads and sealant https://www.parker.com/literature/Tube Fittings Division/Assembly_Installation.pdf Edited September 9, 2018 by Yetti Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 I like these valves. They work good and they are an Arizona company! http://www.curtissuperiorvalve.com/tablet/products.html 1 Quote
MB65E Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 The Curits valves are great. Their large one I have on the Mooney oil sump. Simple device, about 3 years ago they changed the o-ring material and it’s now approved for oil. -Matt Quote
carusoam Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 I think @jlunseth may have some funky oil drain experience? My memory is not so good. So I may have swapped some important detail... when doing a search also include quick drain with your search... a name that gets used to describe this thing... Best regards, -a- Quote
Guest Posted September 9, 2018 Report Posted September 9, 2018 2 hours ago, carusoam said: I think @jlunseth may have some funky oil drain experience? My memory is not so good. So I may have swapped some important detail... when doing a search also include quick drain with your search... a name that gets used to describe this thing... Best regards, -a- I don’t think you’re losing it, I too remember a post here about oil loss caused by contamination in the drain seal and an unscheduled landing in Canada? Clarence Quote
jlunseth Posted September 10, 2018 Report Posted September 10, 2018 Yes, that was me alright. Just a sliver of plastic about 3/8” long and maybe 1/16-1/8 thick as I recall. I kept it, I still have it somewhere. It went in the quick drain entrance hole but did not pass through, kept the valve from completely sealing. Running the engine pressurizes the crankcase so we blew out about 4-5 qts over a couple of hours. Got to visit Canada without intending to. Be careful with those things. At a minimum, disassemble and clean it and put in a new “kit” which includes the O riong(s). 1 Quote
SantosDumont Posted September 14, 2018 Author Report Posted September 14, 2018 Took off the quick drain, looked like there was a little piece of gasket stuck in the entrance hole. Replaced the o-rings and used a wire brush to clean up all the caked on oil. I could tell there is a lot more resistance from the new o-rings when pulling the drain now. The quick drain o-rings are definitely something that is going on the annual checklist. Quote
jlunseth Posted September 17, 2018 Report Posted September 17, 2018 I have the quick drain removed at annual to let any swimmers exit out the big hole. Quote
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