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Posted

I need some help. While landing about a month ago the tower informed me that I had 'a lot' of black smoke coming from my exhaust. I land still leaned out(ready for full rich on go-around). When I downloaded the engine data, it was obvious that the #6 cyl had flooded. Looking back it always had since I've owned the plane (1 year). At idle, the #2 egt is 300-400 hotter than #6 and at cruise it is 60 hotter than #4 & #6(hottest egt of all, but not the leanest). It was recommended that I re-set up the fuel system as a first step. After doing this the idle performance is a lot better, but the problem of high temp diff and flooding #6 on landing still persists. Everything appears normal looking at the engine & compressions are all good. Any suggestions or referal to a good TCM turbo engine person in the NY area would be appreciated.

Posted

Hmm.. What are your CHT's like on #2?  Unfortunately I don't know enough about the Continental fuel system compared to the Bendix/RSA fuel system in the Lycomings.



I wouldn't be worried about 60 degrees on the EGTs at all.  At 300-400 maybe a bad probe or something?  Are you having trouble with the #2 cyl at all?  What are the CHTs on #2 and #6?  I assume you're flying an Encore?  Or an upgraded 252?

Posted

It is an 252/encore conversion. The probes are accurate. I always knew about the 60 deg, no big deal, but I included to be complete. No trouble at all(other than the #6 flooding & black smoke). Good question about the CHT. #2 is always 25-40 deg cooler the The others. The tsio-360sb has a tuned induction(each cyl should be getting an equal gulp of air).

Posted

Did you have the full TCM SID97-3 setup performed?  Have you tried the GAMI lean test to see when #2 peaks relative to the others?


I have the TSIO360-MB, which also has the tuned induction system, and my CHT #2 is always about 20 degF hotter than the next hottest cylinder.

Posted

yes to sid97-3. #2 cyl should be hotter, being in the back, mine is the coolest?? I have gami injectors. Good gami spead of approx .5, they take turns being the leanest.

Posted

Jackn,


Three things that come to mind from an engineering point of view...


[1] Air pressure leaks in that beautiful balanced intake.  Less air getting to #6 would cause it to run rich.  Leaks usually are more prominent under turbo pressure, not while under low power.


[2] Fuel flow too high going to #6 causing it to run too rich.  Sounds like you had the fuel system balanced already.


[3] Spark missing or weak under low power.  Magnetos, wires and spark plugs can conspire at low power settings to not spark as well as they do during run-up power/rpm levels.  Check the log books to see how old the wires, plugs and magnetos are.  Wires and plugs are an easy exchange.  Magnetos, slightly more effort....


[4] Do you (should you) run the fuel pump as part of the pre-landing procedure?  Yes on an O-360, No on an IO-550, yours?


[5] Are you familiar with Mattituck out on Long Island?  I believe they are owned by TCM now.


http://www.mattituck.com/


I share these ideas to open up thinking into what can cause a too rich situation in a cylinder....


Hope you find the culprit soon.


Best regards,


-a-


PS. Good to see Flying Aggie back on line... last post I saw was before the storm at KLAL...  Alan, I hope all is well...

Posted

You may want to have the upper deck seals checked. If it's leaking at the injector it may not be atomizing the fuel properly and that will cause the cylinder to act like it is rich, though it is getting the correct amount of fuel. If the fuel is not atomized then vaporized it can't burn properly. Usually these seals will be replaced as part of a normal service. You don't want to re use them.

Posted

Leaking upper deck seal makes sense. The #6 cyl was changed a couple of years ago by the previous owner. If the seals weren't replaced, it could cause this problem. I'll check it out, Thanks.

Posted

Intake seal leaks are real EZ to find, pressurize the intake system and then spray soap water on all intake boots and connections.  If there are any leaks, you will see bubbles.  You can pressurize the system by attaching a vacuum hose (plugged into the pressure side of the vacuum) to the intake system.  By disconnect the intake pipe from the turbo you can attached the vacuum hose the intake pipe.  I hope this helps.

Posted

As Bob said, it is fairly easy to check for inductions leaks using the output from a vaccuum cleaner.  Be sure to filter the air (using a pair of panty hose) so your not blowing dirt into the induction manifold.  We were able to get about 5"  above ambient pressure (i.e. about 30" at my elevation), but it was enough to see bubbles in the soapy water.

Quote: carusoam

Good to see Flying Aggie back on line... last post I saw was before the storm at KLAL...  Alan, I hope all is well...

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