Tool idea?

[Joe Larussa]

Anybody know the proper tool to remove this plug so I can install an oil temp probe?

[Yetti]

Should be an allen wrench

[Hank]

I agree with Yetti. If an Allen wrench won't fit, try a torx wrench (the star-shaped ones). But try an Allen wrench first.

[bonal]

Seems to be a lot of this going around, will be doing the same thing this weekend. I was told it's an allen but not sure what size. Also tend to be very tight to break loose and that case might need to be heated another thread mentioned 1/8th

[Guest]

It should be a 3/16" Allen wrench.  If it is tight, you can heat crankcase around it with a propane torch.

Clarence

[bonal]

Just now, M20Doc said:

It should be a 3/16" Allen wrench.  If it is tight, you can heat crankcase around it with a propane torch.

Clarence

Ah the reply I was waiting for thanks

[Joe Larussa]

Allen wrench wasn't excited about fitting. Going to try torch.

[cnoe]

Anybody know the proper tool to remove this plug so I can install an oil temp probe?

It's a hex (allen) for sure but don't don't use the "ball-end type". Even then it'll likely round out before coming loose (been there, done that).

A typical ez-out won't fit as the recess is too shallow but there is a solution. My 70-something A&P/IA introduced me to these little jewels which extracted the plug easy-peasy (even without a torch). Sorry I don't know exactly which size is the right one but you should be able to take some measurements and determine that. Let me know if you need more info.





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[Bob_Belville]

Consider a 3/8" drive hex socket set

$8 @ Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-38-in-drive-sae-hex-socket-set-69547.html

and a Beaker Bar.

$9 http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-17-in-breaker-bar-67931.html

 

[Marauder]

Consider a 3/8" drive hex socket set
$8 @ Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-38-in-drive-sae-hex-socket-set-69547.html
and a Beaker Bar.
$9 http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-17-in-breaker-bar-67931.html
 

Timely topic. I just bought a tool box for the hangar and will need to split the tools I have duplicates of or buy new.




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[Bob_Belville]

24 minutes ago, Marauder said:

 

Timely topic. I just bought a tool box for the hangar and will need to split the tools I have duplicates of or buy new.




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Harbor Freight has good tools at great price. Chicago brand tools (China) but fine for non-professional user and my A&P has found a lot of stuff to be as useful as Snap On. Their tool boxes are a fraction of the name brand stuff and quite adequate for my purposes. I have a couple in the garage and a good sized one in the hanger. 

[DaV8or]

3 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said:

Harbor Freight has good tools at great price. Chicago brand tools (China) but fine for non-professional user and my A&P has found a lot of stuff to be as useful as Snap On. Their tool boxes are a fraction of the name brand stuff and quite adequate for my purposes. I have a couple in the garage and a good sized one in the hanger. 

Harbor Freight is kind of like IKEA, you get what you pay for and the vast majority of it is trash, but if you shop carefully, you can buy a very few adequate products but only adequate. Nothing there is actually good quality. That smell you breath in when you first enter the store is what I imagine the whole country of China to smell like. 

[Marauder]

Harbor Freight is kind of like IKEA, you get what you pay for and the vast majority of it is trash, but if you shop carefully, you can buy a very few adequate products but only adequate. Nothing there is actually good quality. That smell you breath in when you first enter the store is what I imagine the whole country of China to smell like. 

Moth balls...


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[RocketAviator]

Highly Recommend using hot air gun rather than open fire torch.  Also always best to use impact vs straight torque.

Also can use insulation or old baffling material to keep any excess heat off unwanted areas.

As Chuck said never use ball end of allen wrenches for high torque apllication.

Even if not metric use tightest fitting wrench (metric or SAE) even if light force is needed to insert.  

Use great caution to not wobble the allen socket out.  If wobble begins stop try larger wrench or you may need to use easy outs!

Heat first and impact even the palm type would be my first choice.

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

2 minutes ago, DaV8or said:

That smell you breath in when you first enter the store is what I imagine the whole country of China to smell like. 

Not even close...  You ever smell a durian?  How about the exhaust from a maladjusted 2-stroke coming from a broken urinal?

[geoffb]

The heavy duty tool boxes (American General?) at Harbor Freight are awesome for the money.  We buy them for our field work tool kits for about 10% the price of Mac or Snap-On.  Almost millwright proof.  Almost.

[Hank]

Harbor Freight tools are good if you need something particular to use once or twice. I have their torque wrench, I use it only for putting my spark plugs back in; at that rate, I expect to get several years' work for $12.99. If the job is big, or you expect to use the tool often, forget it--spend the money and buy something good.

[Bob_Belville]

2 hours ago, Marauder said:

 

Timely topic. I just bought a tool box for the hangar and will need to split the tools I have duplicates of or buy new.

I have had excellent service with most of what I get from Harbor Freight - wrenches, torque wrenches, tool boxes, and supplies of various kinds. (My A&P's apprentice has a big American General toolbox he put a SNAP-ON decal on. On close inspection it is not the same as his boss's real Snap-On but he saved about 1 AMU and it holds his tools as well as the "good" one does.) 

But hey, it's your money guys, just don't apply for membership in the CB club if you're spending $2000 for a $400 container with wheel.   
 

[Dave Colangelo]

This may also be a triple square (cheese head bolt) which is different than torx, but it does look like an allen key. The key with allen keys or any kind of bolt like this is to clean out the head really well before attempting to remove the bolt. Get in there with a tooth brush or wire brush or some kind of compressed air etc to get all the grime out, then lightly tap the appropriate socket in before even attempting to apply torque. Confirm that the tool is visibly moving into the head of the bolt. This will ensure the tool is properly set in the bolt and will help prevent stripping. If the tool does not fit snug its most likely the wrong size. 

 

 

[jetdriven]

Triple square are used a lot on German cars, it's also known as an XZN bit. In the OP's case I thInk it's a standard size Allen plug, though.  I haven't seen any hardware on a Lycoming that was invented after 1939. 

Edited October 14, 2016 by jetdriven

[Tony Armour]

Don't discount a hard rap with a hammer either. Correct socket, extension, hit the end of the extension a couple of good licks then remove.

[Bob_Belville]

1 hour ago, Tony Armour said:

Don't discount a hard rap with a hammer either. Correct socket, extension, hit the end of the extension a couple of good licks then remove.

Get a bigger hammer. Or a longer breaker bar. Or a tougher mechanic. Or...

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Tony Armour said:

Don't discount a hard rap with a hammer either. Correct socket, extension, hit the end of the extension a couple of good licks then remove.

Licking it is a technique I had never even considered, does it work?

Clarence

[Yetti]

If you are getting the hammer out....  do it right

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131739808570?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

These are pretty handy.  Had to use it on several other fasteners on the plane

 

 

[Yetti]

Sometimes the impact driver gets used on the BMW motorcycle.   And other Japanese brand aluminum motors and such