Heat in the Back??

[Guitarmaster]

I am trying to figure out a (non permanent) way to get heat to the rear passengers.  So far my only idea is to velcro a flexible pipe to the outlet under the feet and run to the back.

 

Anybody else have ideas??

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

[Andy95W]

You should already have some heat going to the back seat via 1" scat tubing that runs along the bottom of your side walls. It is pretty anemic air flow even when in perfect condition, but IMO you should start there. Those tubes tend to get crushed or become disconnected over the years.

After that you could try some blankets that match your airplane's paint job or interior color, or some of those thick battery powered socks. .

[Bob_Belville]

My '66E has 1" CAT running behind the side panels to outlets @ the back seat floor area. To improve the front/rear balance you should be able to open the heat control full (it will drive you out in my plane) and close the front outlets above your shins to increase the pressure to the back. 

[Danb]

Matt, when you come up with a practical way let me know, Last week at FL 230 it was -24 and I was quite cold..I'm going to invest in those electric socks..

[Glenn]

On my 1987 F , I use both a wire hook and velcro to secure 3" scat tubing to the heat outlet that is half way between the throttle and the floor, and run it straight back.  I put it in place after retracting the gear (Johnson Bar) and remove it prior to gear extension.  Simple but effective.

[mooniac15u]

On my M20D I used to open the vent a little along with the heat. The higher pressure/velocity of the vent air helped the warm air move through the cabin better. The trick is to not open the vent too much and cool the air too much.

It also helped a lot when I replaced the door seal and stopped all the warm air from going outside.

[fantom]

Shoe horning one of Marauder's sweat hogs in the back should warm things up.

[KSMooniac]

Shoe horning one of Marauder's sweat hogs in the back should warm things up.

 

I'm afraid you just fired-up the hog beacon!  Better go find my eye bleach...

[Guitarmaster]

Thanks guys!  I didn't know about the scat tube running along the sidewall.  That is a great place to start since I am going to be pulling the side panels to troubleshoot a leak in the pc system.

I'll let you all know what I find under there.  

We took "Riley" on our first trip as a family this last weekend.  Had a GREAT time, but the kids were somewhat cold in the back seat.  I just told them to shut-up and suck it up...  just kidding.  

 

 

 

[KSMooniac]

I didn't know about hose running behind the sidewalls either... must've been a pre-J configuration.  The stuff rots and if they are indeed used to carry heat it isn't hard to imagine lots of deterioration and thus leakage behind the panels.  

 

My '77 J had a big vent that came out of the console about halfway down to the floor and blew aft towards the back seat.  My '81 salvage had a slightly different duct and vent that exited much closer to the floor.  Both were connected to the fresh air distribution box under the panel on the copilot side via a big SCAT hose.  

[Marauder]

On the 75 F model, look in the leg wells on the center console. There should be a couple of sliders that you can close to force more air through the rest of the system.

Also, that center vent that Scott mentioned should be opened fully. It helps direct air to the back.

[carusoam]

1)

Two hoses running to the back of the 65 C originate from the co pilot side.

Heat to the co pilot is adjusted by a rotating piece of sheet metal. This breaks, opens up, and keeps the co pilot nicely warmed...

If this can't be closed properly, the hot air doesn't go to the back seats...

2)

The heater box on the frontside of the firewall has sliding gates that can get oxidized and refuse to open properly.

This is the source of hot air. Get it working.

3)

Vents at the top of the cabin often leak a lot of cold air. Get a solution.

4)

Door seals leak. José has $5 solution for that.

5)

Air vents (pull knob) mix cold air into the system. It is good to have the slide gate on this working as well...

6)

Flying at 11,000', LOP, has little heat to deliver from the engine. Add that to all the other challenges. Or go 50ROP and stay lower just to be warm.

That's my recollection of how to get heat to the back seats.

We also took a few small blankets from Continental. It's like flying in first class.

Best regards,

-a-

[Guest]

Matt, when you come up with a practical way let me know, Last week at FL 230 it was -24 and I was quite cold..I'm going to invest in those electric socks..

Dan does the heat system in your Bravo deliver heat below the throttle quadrant along the floor? If so I have added a -6 Scat flange to the heat box on the co pilots side the routed a -6 Scat duct along the firewall to deliver heat to the pilot's feet. Further added a Wemac vent to the same box to deliver heat to the co pilot's feet. This is how the older pre J models delivered heat.

The other problem is a lack of heat exchanger area. It's hard to imagine that a high altitude airplane like a Bravo has such a poor heat system.

On my RV4 I copied an idea from my Mooney Mite. Under the heat exchanger I wrapped the exhaust pipes in several yards of coil springs to increase the heat transfer area. I've also heard of filling the heat shroud with heavy steel wool to get more heat transfer.

Clarence

[Piloto]

My wife uses a car electric heated blanket that works very well. It plugs into the cigar lighter, ready to go. It works better than any heat duct that you may put in. You can get them at Walmart.

 

José 

[cliffy]

i can tell you that after 30 mins at 12000' 0 degrees F and IMC the windshield ices up completely INSIDE the cabin on my C. Couldn't go lower due to MEA out here in the west. Cold as a well diggers *&^% for the wife.

[Guitarmaster]

Jose... What is your $5 door seal solution?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[M20F]

Mooneys offer many great things, a heater though in my experience is not one of them.

[Andy95W]

Jose... What is your $5 door seal solution?

Jose? Please?

[Piloto]

$4.95 door seal. Last 5 years. Get it at Home Depot.

 

José

[Andy95W]

Thanks!

[Guitarmaster]

Thanks Jose.  I can't believe I didn't think about that!  Ingenious!

 

OK... here goes... tail between legs a little...

 

Apparently i didn't have the center vent open.  Yes, I do feel like a dork.  I opened it up tonight on the way to work and WOW, a huge difference in the temperature in the back.  

As far as the heater itself, there is no shortage of heat in my airplane even at altitude LOP!  I usually have to turn it down.   Now that the back seats will warm, the kids will be much happier!

[Ned Gravel]

$4.95 door seal. Last 5 years. Get it at Home Depot.

 

José

 

+1.  Works pretty well.

[Marauder]

$4.95 door seal. Last 5 years. Get it at Home Depot.

José

It brings a tear to my eye when I see you Cheap Bast$&ds at your finest.

[carusoam]

It's the team effort that allows it to work so well, Chris!

MS has enabled CBs to fly with economic efficiency... similar, in some ways, that Mooneys fly with economic efficiency.

This could last for many years...

Best regards,

-a-

[wombat]

I was thinking of taping some cling wrap to the door frame and putting a bead or silicone around the door then closing it until it sets.  Does anyone have any experience or feedback on this sort of solution?  I don't want to put anything in there that will put more pressure on the hinges or latch.

 

What I've been doing in the meantime is after I get in cruise, putting some charts up up against the edge of the door frame and letting the vacuum suck the paper up and stick it to the door.   It's kind of funny flying along with papers stuck up to the door frame.