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Looking for advise on replacing my rear door seal as apparently the original is no longer made. Have been told to use M-D Building Products ⅜ in. x 10' Black Sponge Rubber Weather Strip sold at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-10-ft-Black-Sponge-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-06635/100353487?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-100355591-_-100353487-_-N#overlay which is similar to the product sold on Aircraft Spruce by Knotts2U for a fraction of the cost. Please post comments with links. Thanks!

We wanted to run headset wire to the rear seats and refresh the interior a bit. Read Bruce's guide, bought cans of SEM cleaner, paint, this, that and the other things. Pulled most of the interior and had to go get the real masks due to the amount of mildew in the foam used for insulation. Looks like SB-208 time. Here come the questions: - What is the trick to remove the two (?) roof plastic panels? Can't seem to figure it out, and don't want to break anything I don't have to, but I do want to clean / paint them. - The primer on the steel frame is flaking off; I plan to clean it all up with steel wool and apply epoxy primer. Will that work? Any tricks to get enough of the primer on the outside parts of the frame (blocked by the aluminum skins), or just a small brush and lots of patience? - Is "aluminum tape" we're supposed to use instead of duct tape the stuff they use on chimneys, etc? Looks like the kitchen stuff on a ~1" wide roll, with some glue on one side. - What do I use to replace the fiberglass with, and how much of it do I need (whole plane, firewall to baggage compartment)? Thing is, I'd prefer to source something locally than wait for a shipment from a MSC, Spruce or another US source, but if I must wait, I will. From a post by @PT20J I understand the stuff from Mooney is closed cell soundproofing foam from Buckley + mylar, someone recommended SoundEx from Spruce, but I can try to source some "Ensolite" (or equivalent) and run with that, correct? Asking, because Ensolite seems to be a US trade name and we likely call it something else here. - 208 says the new stuff is not supposed to touch the steel frame - does it mean I glue it to the skins? Use the 3M Dual Lock stuff? Use aluminum tape? What else do I do, if I'm this deep into the plane? No new windows, but I'll tint the ones I have (thanks @Skates97) but if I can source parts needed to do something that makes sense in reasonable time, why not.

Hi all, As soon as it warms up enough to be reasonably warm and/or I am willing to inhale propane fumes for a prolonged time, I'm going to pull the interior and do a few projects including: 1 - repair and repaint old interior Royalite, replace carpet and re-do arm rests and side leather. 2 - 2 runs of RG 400 in anticipation of ADS-B upgrades 3- pull old / unused wiring 4- pull old fiberglass - there is still some lurking and inspect tubular frame 5- if its as painful as I think it will be to pull the interior, I may replace the side windows then vs coming back later In terms of replacement foam, there's a number of kits available from spruce, etc. The cheap bastard in me says why on earth would I pay ~ 0.9 AMU for some pre cut foam. Spruce also have polyvinyl nitrile rubber foam as another alternative but this lacks the aluminized mylar backing that I would want to create a vapor barrier. My question to the group is 1) has anyone used actual acoustic dampening foam in an install? If so, what shape is best for the type of noise spectrum that our planes produce. I liked the idea of trying to deaden as much sound as possible as I value my toddler's future hearing and can't get her to keep the headphones in or earplugs on for more than 5 minutes a go. They go back in, but it's a struggle. I found a source here: http://www.usafoam.com/acousticfoam/acousticfoam.html The advantage seems to be that it has a fire resistance classification and has been burn tested (typically used in small enclosed spaces in California studios I suppose - so lots of regulation there). Also available in both rolls and 1-foot squares. Also unexpectedly cheap. The unknown is whether this type of has any propensity to retain water vapor. It's gotta be better than that pink $hit that's still lurking in there. Any opinions from the group? The same source also has what they call "gym foam" which is the same stuff that spruce sells minus the mylar wrapping. Figure that may be an easy addition with contact spray and aluminum tape. Plenty of instructables for aluminized mylar uses from the good folks of the "hydroponic" community. If I end up going this route, I'll post some details / pictures for the ultimate CB redo foam installation. Thanks and take care, Brad