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Everything posted by M20F-1968
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Buy a high quality rechargeable pistol-grip type screwdriver. There are are also rechargeable gyro screwdrivers that give you a better feel for the screw. John Breda
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Looking for RaJay Drawing RJ4999, RJ 4999, RJ-4999
M20F-1968 replied to drdpir8's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
No, they are like new rolled in a tube. -
Looking for RaJay Drawing RJ4999, RJ 4999, RJ-4999
M20F-1968 replied to drdpir8's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I have all of the drawings specified in the RaJay STC's as well as the install manual, FAA Approved operations letter and parts manual. As I recall, there are 3 different blue print type drawings. Please let me know specifics. You need all that I mentioned along with the 2 STC's to be legal. John Breda -
Start with the known basic list, which will get expanded every time you find a new need, a bolt in a tight place, or a special tool that you will use once every few years. Get to know the Snap-On section of e-bay. John Breda
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A few years ago I was falling with a high time Mooney pilot who flies Ovations and Aclaims often. Were coming in and landing a strong crosswind and he introduced me to planning crosswinds with speed rates deployed, full flaps, and of course gear extended. The extra drag makes the airplane feel heavier and allows you to carry more power for the same airspeed. It seems to not be affected as much by the crosswind. I have done a go around in this configuration in my F model (now more like a J) and it does climb, albeit somewhat more slowly. I retract speed breaks for us because their quick, gear second, and flaps last. I don't use speed breaks all the time when landing in a cross wind, but for the landings with higher crosswind component and gusty winds they do seem to be helpful. John Breda
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Anyone have a source for baffles for a M20F?
M20F-1968 replied to Oldguy's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Better to make them. Use 0.040" thick aluminum. Use Machinist's Blue Dye and a sharp scriber. Trace out the parts. Cut, file or grind very slightly larger thn needed to permit hand filling with a file. Take your time, save alot of money and end up with a better product that fits your application. John Breda -
Battery Minder Interface Installation
M20F-1968 replied to MisfitSELF's topic in General Mooney Talk
1+ on this cable as well. It is fused, connects with ring terminals, and has the advantage of being small enough to fit through the space between the external power connector and the external skin. It can be folded and stored inside the external power connector. Signed off by when I did my rebuild. It can with the BatteryMinder when purchased. John Breda -
I have both the circular type and the electronic type. John Breda
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I have one I would be willing to sell. John Breda
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I have been concerned about lithium batteries so the only thing I have with me with lithium is a laptop and an Ipad. Can you post info about the fireproof items you pruchased? John Breda
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I have a Skytec XLT starter which was used for about 30 hours before I remade my engine baffling and replaced it with an inline starter. I have the J model type airbox and air filter and there was not enough room for the LS-PM starter (I can confirm part No.). Since it was installed the air filter had to be undermined to clear the starter. That has all been fixed now. So I am no longer using this starter which is as good as new. Anyone interersted? You can PM me, call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com. John Breda
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I would also be concerned about the lithium battery, or is that really not an issue? John Breda
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SB M20-264 + aileron control tube guide blocks
M20F-1968 replied to Martin S.'s topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
I am not sure that I replaced the guides to the ailerons, but I did replace the ones in the belly. The material that the factory used (I am blanking on its mane just now) is abrasive and the material itself can wear the rods. John Breda -
I made this replacement part as a hand lay-up fiberglass part.
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I have a set of serviceable disks for an F model that I replaced with chrome disks if interested. John Breda
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SB M20-264 + aileron control tube guide blocks
M20F-1968 replied to Martin S.'s topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
I used (with DER sign off) nylon blocks for the control tube guides. The hole is slightly smaller, but still large enough to function. Thus, protecting the tube better against the steel structures. It is not as abrasive as the factory blocks. John Breda -
Take a look at my gallery pictures. The interior parts that I used were out of a 1998 Ovation. The panels are fiberglass, are plenty durable, and can be cut, resized, fitted to your airframe, and remodeled as needed. I think this is the easiest route to getting a well fitted interior as opposed to using plastic parts from Plane Plastics or a similar source which only allows you the option of cutting and trimming. Some people have used aluminum for the lower panels with cutouts and inserts for the recessed armrests. Those parts can be made as a hand lay-up or you can make claim old or similar make the four parts that you need. These then can be inserted into the aluminum panel and covered. If you're interested, I had an extra set of Ovation ceiling panels which I would be willing to sell. They've been cut to J model length. They provide a nice contoured ceiling. The center ceiling console can either be made or purchase from a factor. If you are interested, please contact me here, e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com, or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks. John Breda
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Twisted Wing - What’s the deal?
M20F-1968 replied to gwav8or's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
My 68 with twisted wing has one stall strip on each side installed by the factory. John Breda -
Twisted Wing - What’s the deal?
M20F-1968 replied to gwav8or's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
My 68 F has flush rivets, twisted wing, hydraulic flaps and manual gear. I think it was actually made in 1967 however and called a 68. John Breda -
Whoever has the Backwards Tail book, I too would like to read it and pass it on when it is available. Cell: (617) 877-0025 e-mail: john.breda@gmail.com John Breda
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I did my instrument training in a Grumman Tiger. At that point I had only flown a Mooney 1 hour. The Grumman is very light on the controls, fun to fly, not as stable on the ground and a lighter airplane with much less capability. It is easier to get in on a dry day, but you wish you were climbing in a Mooney is a bad rain storm. My F model (now really a J with manual gear and hydraulic flaps) is heavier on the controls (due to the push rod linkages) but is equally as sensitive. Elevator and aileron controls in both is just a nudge in level flight. The Mooney however is much more stable, has much more range (I have long range tanks), is a better IFR platform, and mine is turbonormalized so has much better service ceiling. Both are slippery airplanes and are floaters, but surprisingly so, I think the Mooney may be more so than the Grumman despite the fact that it is a heavier airplane. Structurally, there is no comparison. The Mooney is the preferred airplane in my opinion overall. John Breda
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I obtained them from LASAR around 2007. FWIW: I have a set of the smaller caps (www.newton.com) with key lock being used on the new production airplanes, and those planes with fuel bladders installed. I can be reached at john.breda@gmail.com or at my cell (617) 877-0025. John Breda
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I have a pair that I have not used. They are left over from my rebuild. I'll take pictures of them when I am next at the hangar (likely this Sunday) if you would like. You can reach me here, or at my cell phone (617) 877-0025 or at my e-mail: john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda
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Opinions wanted: Buying a project airplane
M20F-1968 replied to coinneach's topic in General Mooney Talk
Factory J model cowling, completely rebuild before installing. It is a J (MSE) except for 1) Johnson bar gear, 2) hydraulic flaps, 3) no inner gear doors. John Breda -
I did this from Aluminum. There are 6 screws holding it to the floor. The J bar boot is new (made myself) and works perfectly. It took along time to figure that one out as it needs to be below the floor at all times so it does no get in the way. The leather can only be about 0.040" thick. There is only about 0.040" of an inch clearance between the aft cut-out in the aluminum and the J bar, which is why the circular area in the opening is present. Lots of fussing. trial and error. John Breda