RLCarter

Definitely on the "Home Stretch", go vote and then go FLY.

If you want the parts & service manuals in pdf's let me know and I'll send them to you.

Had to tweak my shield a little when I installed new hoses with fire sleeves

mine route under an aluminum shield and the lower cowl skin

Oil cooler lines?

It's the same gasket that goes between the vacuum pump and the adapter lyc p# 61183

Pretty sure Sky Geek has them

I had a generator that needed rebuilt and the old mechanical regulator, getting the generator rebuilt and a new solid state regulator was the same cost as the conversion kit which was on sale. No cowl work but I did have to trim the aluminum baffling that the Alternator goes through (wasn't that big of a deal)

I understand some are reluctant in leaving the Logs seeing how the market value seems to substantially lower with missing logs. Here is my take on the whole thing, the aircraft is worth 100% of the value and you left it there, your also putting your trust in them that you and your family and friends will be safe to fly in the aircraft when they are through with the maintenance. You have copies of the logs, which makes reconstructing them very easy especially since they are actual photos of the pages. Shops / A&P IA deal with logs all the time and I would imagine the percentage of “lost” logs is probably lower than those lost by the owners them self. For those that are worried about your logs being held ransom my advice would be to communicate better with your maintenance facility as to what the cost is going to be before the repairs take place and get it in writing. Working “with” your maintenance facility is a whole lot more pleasant than working against them. My suggestion would be to make paper copies that are very legible for next time, thumb drives are nice but are more than likely harder to deal with than you think. I have copies of all my logs, 337’s and STC’s, etc...(actual digital photos) and spent the time to print them out and get them in a binder and I still give my Original Logs to the IA when he asks for them.

SAL12-70 is what I installed on my 65' E, didn't upgrade the heavy lead or circuit breaker so I'm limited to 50amp which is no big deal

I purchased mine from Lasar, they were made from a cloth material and had Velco. If your over 60lbs and 3' 8" they are a pain to install, pretty tight aera down there.

Not sure what this is but it should have been "with out"

There is voltage (power) on one side of the switch all the time (if the master and CB is on) Maithili out seeing a diagram, my guess is they are getting power for the gear light from the hot side of the switch

Awesome, WTG!!!!!!

Not sure I would use an impact of any kinda to remove a 1/8" pipe plug. Like others have said above "Good Fit" and "Fully Inserted" and it will come right out with no issues

The FAA use to show when the Airworthy Cert was issued but they don't anymore wish they still did

My clamps had the nut welded to them.

There is room to remove it, when I clean the screen on mine I did it from the right side of the aircraft, I cant remember if the intake runner (tube) was installed or if I removed it. The screen did have some carbon in it, the crush gasket was damaged and was a source of one of my oil leaks.

it is a bear to get around the tube, I had to trim an aluminum bracket that the interior plastic fastens to, it will fit just take your time and be careful.

+2 for Plexus, have used it for years on windscreens, a bit spendy but works really well and bugs (what left of them) come right off

Ok, "WILL" was a poor choice, the point I was trying to make was I'm not willing to take the chance of possibly introducing debris back in the sump either through the check or the by-pass valves, I would rather clean up a little oil spill if needed, after all your fixing to cut the filter open for inspection which isn't the cleanest job to begin with.

Not to start an argument but that is the same direction of flow I said

I used a small "C" clamp to hold the tool in place, I had to remove some of the powder coating from the tool so it would fit over the arm. I agree that a 1/2" drive that is clocked 45* is a poor design, i ended up buying an adapter from Sears (craftsman) that is clocked 45*. All my settings were at the high side, a little harder to lower or raise but I didn't want the gear to fold up on landing

It's in the FAR's

I would imagine it's angled to make viewing easier