RLCarter

Residue around the rivets (smoking rivets) are rivets that are loose, along the skin seams is normal

Hey Clarence what type of sprayer do you use? I was thinking of using a cheap paint gun next time it needs done

After the purchase of my "E" I built 2 wing jacks that can be pinned (in fact the bottle jack can even be removed and replaced should it fail while still holding up the aircraft) , a tail stand with both a coarse and fine adjustment and an "A" frame with a chain hoist. I sleep well at night knowing that nothing can bleed down and possibly damage the aircraft, it is also very stable supported this way (4 points) and does not move at all when climbing in and out and all over the aircraft. The reason I use the method that Mooney recommends is, should anything go wrong a savy insurance adjuster could deny the claim.

Mine worked fine, PC, iPhone and iPad, Sounds like it might be on your end?

I used the 1/2” Super Sound Proof with adhesive from Spruce. My old fiberglass insulation was glued to cardboard then glued to the inside of the skins, read Service Bulletins SB208A and SB208B. I would have to look on my invoice to see how much I ordered but it was 1/3 of the cost of ordering a pre-cut kit (which didn’t included the roof or hat rack area). I used poster board to make templates then laid it on the foam and cut it with a utility knife (get plenty of blades, you’ll need them). Start with the larger pieces first (you can re-use the poster board to make the smaller templates). Place the poster board behind the tubing and tape it in place just to hold it (put a mark on the poster board face), take a sharpie and place a dot on the poster board in each inside corner while holding the sharpie perpendicular to the tubing, the width of the sharpie will give you clearance needed in the above bulletin. Remove the poster board and connect the dots and cut it out, place the template on the foam (be sure the mark on the face is correct so the adhesive will be one the right side of the new foam panel). I had to trim a few pieces of my plastics due to the extra thickness of the insulation (headliner, curvature above the windows to roof and hat rack areas come to mind). There was tons of contact cement from the original insulation, most of it I left on the skins, just clean it really good with Acetone or MEK so the new stuff will stick. Fairly easy project seeing how its apart already.

That's what I would have done, wouldn't even wasted the time to look for a donor or buy it from the factory when you can order it from a metal supplier or possibly even buy it locally

As a side note, the aircraft has been going through a very extensive annual, the same servo line has been used multiple times for fuel samples. Injectors and fuel flow was also checked, the golden color fuel was only found after the engine was ran. There is a Service Bulletin for faulty engine driven pumps (mine wasn't affected). The mechanical pumps are a modified AC Delco with an added chamber to keep the engine oil & fuel seperated from each other, the center camber has a vent line that goes out the bottom of the cowl. There was no signs of a fuel or oil leaks on the exterior of the pump, but that is the only place the engine oil & fuel could come in contact with each other.

Tanks were drained at the fuel servo hose last week to get a current empty weight & CG, new fuel was added afterwords. New fuel was added, sumped both tanks and the fuel valve, test ran & taxied for 20 minutes, the following day did the same thing but the vacuum pump was weak on startup and failed completely with in 5 minutes of running, I taxied around and did a run up for a total of another 20 minutes. After replacing the vacuum pump while the cowl was off I checked the finger screen in the fuel servo (same line I used to drain the tanks) and noticed the golden color fuel.

Driven pump was removed then plumbed back into the fuel system. With the boost pump on there was signs of fuel leaking anywhere, still stumped but still convinced that the mechanical pump has an issue so a NEW (not overhauled) pump was ordered. Will run the same test once the new one is installed.

All hoses were lubed well, but then flushed afterwards. This morning some of the 100LL had evaporated leaving an oily residue behind on the glass. Fuel Pump (engine driven) is coming off and I'll pressurize the fuel side on the bench and see if I get fuel on the oil side while on the bench. More details to follow, daily certain the pump has failed

Ron, Smells like 100LL, checked the oil level (no change and no smell of fuel). the quantity in the jar is about all that I got out of the system. N201, All is good up to the engine driven pump (nice and blue), I'm headed back to the hangar after letting it sit over night and see what I can find. It does look old car gas but after 35+ years of cleaning motorcycle carbs I am very familiar with the smell of what we called money. When I purchased the plane 2 years ago the first place I went to was the fuel tanks to see if it had auto fuel (100LL was in it). I have sumped the tanks and valve numerous times over the past 2 years of getting it ready to go back up with no issues. Tanks were drained for a New Weight & Balance last week and nothing like this was seen.

Tried that along with the painted floor of the hangar and several other surfaces with no joy, its just leaves a stain (not oily)

When draining the fuel last week all was good, then this today...i'm stumped, as is my IA, the morning testing might turn up something, if not I'm ground running it a getting another sample

Shows on my end, will edit and attach another one

Been bringing a "hanger find" back to life and was doing some run-ups and taxi test when my Vacuum Pump went south. I had planned on checking the filter screen at the fuel servo after an hour of total running time but with cowl off for the vacuum pump and 40 minutes of running time I went ahead and checked it today. While removing the fuel line, fuel was dripping from the line as it loosened up but with my hand in the way and the lower cowl still on the dripping fuel looked odd. With the line removed from the fuel servo I decided I would turn on the electric pump and catch some fuel in a container just for piece of mind. Sure enough, my old eyes weren't playing tricks on me in the poor lighting. Below is what I got out of my plane today, here is what I have done in the past week prior to seeing this. Both tanks were drained (for new weight & balance) and I personally added 5 gal of 100LL right from the fuel farm (as a side note the fuel that I removed for the W&B was old but it was still blue). After adding fresh new fuel I ran the engine twice to check for leaks or issues (FWF all hoses were replaced) for approx. 20 minutes each time. Today after finding this I sumped the tanks which was nice and blue, I then pulled the fuel selector drain sampling both sides, still blue. My thought was the engine driven fuel pump was somehow allowing engine oil into the fuel side of the pump. I looked around the mechanical pump and all is dry from what I can see. I let the jar sit for 3hrs to see if it would separate or if anything would settle to the bottom, but nothing. In the photo it looks like there is something in the bottom of the jar but it is shadow of some sort, there is nothing but this apple juice looking stuff. I ran the boost pump again and the fuel came out blue shortly after turning it on, going to let it sit overnight and see what happens in the morning. You guys got any ideas or seen this before?

Do you know anyone with a 3D printer?

At one point my E had the 3 axis Brittian in it (before me), not sure what all has been removed other than the unit in the panel. The PC doesn't work but it all seems to be there along with several other components that are disconnected. All the hoses and servo boots are still supple and seem to be in great shape. Was going to start trouble shooting and figure out what all I'll need to get the 3 axis back. Any install diagrams, parts list, or any info for that matter would be greatly appreciated

Check with DHL, you will need a rough idea of the crate size and weight

I replace the seat belts & installed the fixed shoulder harness from these guys Mooney Seat Belts, was around $350.00 or so a few years back.

It's a gov thing, they have to stick it to you one way or another

If their in house guy cant weld like this find someone who can, Chassis Builders (drag racing) work with thin wall 4130 everyday, TIG (heli-arc) is the only way to have it done. What city/state are you in?

Here is the new Instrument ACS, the flying portion and the regs haven't changed. I used Sporty's for both my PPL and IR, get comfortable flying under the hood, straight & level, climbs & descents on a heading and while turning to a heading. Power settings are a big part as well so get use to your Mooney, then grap an instructor and have some white knuckle, sweaty palm fun

That's just not right