RLCarter

Tim N number is original, all the glass was replaced in 05' and in really good shape. A 201 windshield looks a lot better in my opinion but it sure is nice being able to remove the panels in front of the windshield. So far no leaks of any of the fluids, leaks drive me nuts

Thanks, could purchased one for a little more money and a whole lot less time but I hated to see it waste away

You could ask the FAA for a "letter of interpretation", but most of the ones I have read just makes it more confusing. I think most of the guys/gals doing the ramp checks could care less about an iPad / tablet on the yoke, and if they say something just go with the flow and remove it, arguing with them will only add fuel to the fire.

Not really much to look at, yokes were wrapped in leather, the seats were painted a two tone grey, new plastics around the nose wheel well, and when I ordered the carpet I ordered a half yard more to put in front of the rudder pedals

I didn't take a lot of photos other than how things were put together so I could confirm it was assembled correctly before re-assembly. You can see how low the nose was by the angle the of the front spindle, prop was maybe 4" from the ground. Pretty dirty when I found it, but it cleaned up good enough

MooneySpace played a huge roll, tons of info and talent on here. Not sure if I will ever be completey done, but at least now it's a flying project

Not sure if this as any weight or not, several years ago when I was doing my Instrument Check Ride the DPE told me that the FAA only has an issue if the EFB is attached in any way to the aircraft, it has to be signed off. I did my check ride with my iPad laying in my lap to satisfy him, I asked if he wanted the Ram mount removed as well and he said that it wasn't holding anything electrical so it was fine. He also said that electrical means its own battery or ship power. He was an IA as well and offered to sign it off but I declined seeing how it was a rental.

After working on and off for the past 24 months on my 65’ “E”, it was signed off and flown yesterday for the 1st time since I’ve own it, and the 1st time in almost 7 years. Short story long, the previous owner had contacted me about flying the plane seeing how they just didn’t have the time due to family and work schedules. This was going to work out well seeing how I was about to start my commercial rating and didn’t have a complex aircraft to do it in. After nearly 3 months of waiting for them to get the plane back in annual they bailed on the deal and decided they would sell the aircraft instead. I knew of the plane and had seen it from a distance but never really had a close look at it, so I told them that I would be interested in seeing the aircraft. We met at the airport so I could look it over and take a look at the logbooks, The plane hadn’t been out of the hangar for the past year or better and had a thick layer of dirt (way past the “Dust” stage) on it. Almost all the sheet metal seams had the corrosion treatment wicking out them, which was kind of a good sign, as I opened the baggage door I stuck my head in the cabin to see if I could detect the smell of fuel, no smell was present so another good sign. I then looked and smelled in the fuel tanks (the Mooney I had looked at several weeks earlier had Mo-Gas in it) the sealant seemed to be in good shape inside the tank, said they had the tanks sealed several years earlier, the seal job wasn’t the best as there was a bunch of sealant around the inspection panels that was never cleaned off after assembly that looked like crap but it was still very pliable, no stains on the bottoms of wings was possibly a good sign as well. The interior plastics were in pretty good shape and seemrd to be Plane Plastics as the material was much thicker, some had been painted and some had not, seats were leather and in really good shape, there was no carpet in the plane but they said they had the carpet at home, all in all the interior was decent just needed a good cleaning. The instrument panel was like most of the older Mooney’s (shotgun), which doesn’t really bother me, the avionics were doable as long as they worked, (KMA 24 Audio Panel, Narco 890 DME, 2 Narco 810’s (Comm. only), King KR 86 ADF, Narco Nav 11 VOR/LOC/GS and a Narco AT 150 Transponder) given I had no intentions of flying hard IFR anyway. I wasn’t really looking for a project but all in all the aircraft would work for my mission if the pre-buy doesn’t show anything too bad and we can agree on a price. After taking a few photos for the wife and photos of all the logbook pages for me I headed home to start adding up what I already knew had to be done. A few days later I decided to proceed with a pre-buy, all though the IA had do the pre-buy has very little Mooney experience it was someone that I have known for years and I could trust plus I had been looking at Mooney’s for over a year and had read about the big ticket items that could bite you. Once I had the aircraft in my hangar I began removing all the Inspection panels, interior panels and removed the cowling in preparation. Once it was all opened up I went around and made notes of things I saw so that I could point them out once he got to the plane. I picked up my buddy at 7:30am on a Saturday morning handing him my list to look over on the way to the airport, he handed me his list that he had researched which were the big ticket items, spar corrosion inspection, tubing inspection, along with a couple more items (he had spoke with an IA friend of his that has had a Mooney for the past 20yrs) and said these will be first as they would be the deal breakers. The pre-buy went fairly quick as it was all opened up so 4 hours later it was off to lunch to discuss the airplane, which by the way was the cost of the pre-buy. The aircraft was left opened up so that the annual could be started if the seller & I could come to an agreement. I met with the seller the following weekend a presented all the things that would have to be replaced in addition to the normal items at annual so it could be signed off (gear pucks, tires, brakes, hoses…etc.). Their original asking price was over fair market value even if it had been in annual so my offer was WAY off from what they wanted. After showing them the list of items needed they came down some but we still couldn’t agree on a price. Not willing to pay more I re-assemble the aircraft so they could take it back to their hangar the following weekend. What started out as having the aircraft for 2 weeks for the pre-buy ended up with me waiting on the owners for almost 3 months before they finally came to take it back, I still had the cash at the house for the original asking price so I decided to take my offer plus an additional 2k along with an FAA bill of sale already to go as a last try, standing in a metal hangar in August in S. Texas can be brutal to say the least, not sure if the heat was getting to their decision making or mine but the money didn’t sit on the wing very long and I now had a project on my hands. I didn’t think it would take much more than a few months to get it back in the air but it has. The short list is new tires & tubes (all), new brake rotors, new gear disks and associated hardware, All new hoses (fuel & oil), new scat tubing, sound proof insulation, interior panels repaired and painted, new plastic around nose gear wheel well, new carpet, leather wrapped yokes, seats re-died, all 4 seat belts with shoulder harnesses for the pilot & co-pilot, rudder pedal boots (4), J-Bar boot, flap actuator rebuilt, 70 amp Alternator conversion, new door seals (entry & baggage), a bunch of new hardware (everywhere) just to list a few things. Almost forgot the most important thing, me and my CFII flew just under an hour, and the bird flew great.

I'm on the other end of the spectrum, Just replaced the mechanical fuel pump and now have 30 psi fuel pressure at idle with the boost pump off, goes to 31 or so with it on. To bad we cant average them which you put us both in the green

There are a few rivets that need squeezed before the mounting bracket is re-installed, if memory serves going from front to back you have a....Front Plate > Seal (being replaced) > Rear Plate > Mounting Bracket. Not really that hard to do, check the sealing of the opening with a flashlight from the back side and look for light on the front side

Sounds like your voltage regulator went south. I just installed a conversion from Gen. to Alt. and it required a "Field" switch to be installed.

Could have been done Saturday afternoon when I had the other new parts, but after the whoop'n I took Friday it was time to walk away

Round 2 was a victory, wiped down the mating surfaces of the valve body and bowl where the gasket seats with MEK, cleaned a new gasket with soap and water, wiped the mating surfaces along with the gasket with a dry shop towel and re-assembled with a new bolt and stat-o-seal torqued per SB M20-200. Turned the fuel back on and NO LEAK!!!! Thanks for the help guys, was still gun shy so the safety wire didn't go on till after lunch (3.5 hrs later}. Thanks again

a lasar would do the trick, but it needs to be hand fitted to seal correctly. Not hard to make, just need to drill out the rivets, rough cut the seal, re-assemble and squeeze new rivets. I used a bench grinder to remove the material from the seal, remove too much and you get to start over

First attempt was with a fuel resistant lubricant (Dow Corning product I beleive) on the gasket. After seeing it was pushing the gasket out I removed the lubricant from the bowl, body and gasket,but the results were the same, 3rd attempt was with another new gasket a re-cleaning bowl & body. This went on several more tries until the stat-o-seal gave up the ghost. Picked up 3 new stat-o-seals and a new bolt ( bolt was because they had it ) this morning. The order of assembly is the reverse of the way the parts came off: (not sure if it's correct or not, but it seems correct to me) (a) install the screen into the body (b) install the gasket into the body (c) install the bowl on to the body (d) install stat-o-seal on to bolt (e) install bolt thru center of bowl and torque to 15 in lbs i did leave out the part of the drain plunger and "B" nut and I'm also still using a lubricant on the stat-o-seal. Does this sequence seem correct. Would still like to see a parts break down or something from the service manual, I will start round two first thing Monday morning, hopefully that little PITA gasket won't whoop up on me too bad

My manuals do not show a break down.

While finishing up on my 65 E” the H&E Gascolator bowl & screen was removed and inspected, everything inside was clean as a whistle and no signs of corrosion or any other type of damage. I ordered 3 new gaskets (1/16”) from Brown Aircraft and my AI had 1 new stat-o-seal for the bolt. After re-assembly the Gascolator pours fuel from the bowl to body mating surface, I’m familiar with SB M20-200 and the torque values. I once again removed the bowl to find the new gasket had squeezed out into the bowl, once again there is no evidence that the bowl has ever been cocked during installation and no signs of any type of damage. I spoke with Brown’s about the possibility of the wrong gasket material being used, no luck there. Searching the net I ran across an old “The Mooney Flyer” dated June 2014 that says “It may take more than one try to correctly install the top seal”, so I then gave LASAR a call and spoke to them about any tips or tricks they might know. I have had it off multiple times and so has my IA, so I’m looking for any advice. I’m half temped to index it in my lathe a cut an O-ring groove in it that can’t slip. The service and Parts Manuals show no break-down of the Valve/Gascolator assembly so if anyone has that info I’d like that as well.

You wouldn't happen to know the SB#? A new stat-o-seal (fancy o-ringed washer) was used, screen fits snugly. I'm also going on the assumption that the assemble order was correct when it was taken apart, screen over the center of valve body, gasket then the bowl, stat-o-seal washer and bolt? I've had it apart twice with no issues before yesterday.

New mechanical fuel pump corrected the issue on the fuel color. While looking into the issue I removed the gascolator bowl again just as a precaution so I ordered a new gasket (2.00" x 1/6") from Brown Aircraft. Got it all assembled and now there is a fuel leak at the gascolator bowl and fuel valve mating surfaces (new gasket or old gasket), Both mating surfaces are clean and with no signs of any damage not even a scratch on the surfaces.. I have searched MS and found where they are leaking from the valve body and are sent off for OH. The valve works very smooth and all detents are positive, I have not taken the valve off the aircraft as its a sealing surface leaking so an overhaul shouldn't be needed. Any ideas?

Do you have the Service and Parts Manuals? PM me if you need them, I have them in PDF files and can email them to you. FAA has your "F" as 1966, serial number has it as a 1967. Gear tools will be needed to set the pre-load (it's an AD), have fun and learn about you plane,

If I read this correct you are wanting circle so that you look a chart? Circling will not give you anytime to look at anything, If your going for your IR ck ride you wont have much time in the "Holding Pattern" either, the best time to gather your thoughts or doing something than "Fly the Airplane" is "Straight & Level Flight"

Flat spots (worn tire) are generally from locking up a brake and skidding the tire, flat spots (deformed tire) is from setting too long but the tire will usually become round again with use. Tire prices vary, depends on what brand and who you get it from

Both knobs? My E has 2 knobs but one is the dimmer for the lights. If memory serves its a goofy contraption that I had to fiddle with to get mine to work (open & close the top scoop)

The one thing that I do to keep it cool is I do not have it plugged in, charging the battery on one while in use builds a lot of heat.

No GPS, have all the manuals (owner & install) for both. GPS with the Shadin would be nice, but......