RLCarter

I was told by a DPE when I was taking my Instrument check ride that the iPad is legal for enroute navigation in both VFR & IFR, it is not legal for the approach except for displaying the approach plate. After the check ride he pulled out AC-120-76 (I believe), I didn't read it he just pointed and said here it is.... I also attended a FAAST seminar on ADS-B where the FAA rep said that the GPS unit in the iPad is the same unit that is used in one of the major avionics manufacturers.

The A/C pump should work, air-cons are sealed so it just keeps pulling, the vacuum system is open and pulls air through the gyro's

If memory serves, one servo pulls forward and the other pulls aft, I would think that there needs to be enough slack to where when the rudder is fully deflected the servo that is being pulled apart still has some movement before being stretched past its limits...... Purely a guess on my part

64 gal should get you around the patch once........

The I-Pad is great for charts, plates and situational awareness. I've had an I-pad in the cockpit for the past 7 years or so and its very accurate in ALL aspects (checked against several IFR certified GPS's). The mini fits in the plane much better than the original that I started out with (still have both). Personally the yoke mount is the best, yes you can feel the weight but it's no big deal (I've had I-pads on both yokes at the same time). Get with someone that flys with one and go up to see what your missing.

Pitch it! My theory is if you thought it could have been repaired, it would still be in service. Patching one that is starting to fail to buy a little time is one thing, but it's already started to deteriorate so repairs will be ongoing. I'm all for repairing vs replacing if it cost effective (money/time) and if the outcome is as good or better than original......

Shouldn't be an issue, I don't think grease will do much more than stain the paint over a period of time.

Any reason for using lacquer? I just did mine in Epoxy

These lower settings assumes the new style over center links have been installed, so check those as well.

Way too high, Nose 100~130 in-lbs, mains 250~280 in-lbs. Service Bullettin M20-155 spells it out

UPDATE: After 3 re-orders (wrong parts) finally got the the gear working MUCH MUCH better. New bushings and hardware in the main gear did the trick, there was barely any play (few thou) in the individual pivot points but by the time they all added up it was enough to make the difference. The mains are at 255 in-lbs each and the nose is 115 in-lbs. I can now sit on the wing-walk and reach in with my left hand and cycle the gear, and from the left seat its really a breeze. I had added all the plastics that enclose the nose wheel well and knew the J-Bar was touching the plastic when the gear was extended (wasn't the issue), so while I waited for the next wrong order I slotted the plastic so it wouldn't eventually crack a few years from now when it gets brittle.

Awesome, we need more pilots. What are you training in?

Repairing damaged areas of paint is actually harder than just painting. If you haven't ever painted before I wouldn't practice or learn on your aircraft,

Once you get it back together, lock the lever in the gear down block and place a mark on the J-bar at the bottom of the chrome handle. Release the bar and adjust the nut so the handle goes up an additional 1/16~3/16" from the mark

There is a spring under the chrome handle and a nut holds it to the bar, the hole in the bar is the access. Up on the jacks it will make sence

Congrats on the purchase

My 65 E had to be refitted for the new style discs, LASAR had the parts to change Nose and Mains over to the current style discs. The factory Mooney Kits are damn spendy so go LASAR

All cleaned up and painted, J-bar installed and moves freely into both lock blocks. Nose wheel retract truss installed, along with retract rods and bungees. Waiting on a couple of bushings from LASAR for the mains, then set the preloads and hopefully be able to get the J-bar easily in the gear down lock block.

Get your A&P to Heli-Coil or Time Sert it, I believe mine has an insert in it. If your guy isn't comfortable doing it send it to the people that overhauled it.

Forgot to mention that I have a few friends that have let their addiction develop into full blown AIDS (aviation induced divorce syndrome) so be safe, half an airplane is hard to fly regardless of how good a pilot you are

It's a vicious circle, sit back and enjoy the ride

Hi I'm Robert, and I own an airplane.... Isn't that they way group therapy starts?

Along with several other pieces the bungees were cleaned, stripped and now have a fresh coat of epoxy paint. MM says bungees get lubed with "Low Temp Oil", I can't see using an oil (Tri-Flow) on the Rod ends but what type of grease should be used on the sliding portion of tubes?

Retract tubes (nose wheel) are straight, they got cleaned up and painted today, going to give LASAR a call in the morning

Diesels "ROCK", F350 SuperCab 280k miles.... 21mpg at 75mph, same truck on gasoline at 75 might get 6mpg. And they run really good on Jet-A.......