RLCarter

Facts are facts....... The whole gear system needs painting, paint, reducer, tape and gun all setting on the bench, new crushed walnut shells in the blast cabinet, just don't want spend the effort untill I know it's a serviceable part

Some progress, but some set backs as well. Reinstalled only the J-Bar, all 4 retract tubes and both bungees are completely off and on the workbench, I also removed the plastic from the nose wheel well. With everything removed J-bar swings easily up into the gear lock block and down into the lock on the floor (floor has never been an issue). One thing that I had noticed is the nose wheel retracts too far into the wheel well and the tire drags slightly, knowing that something was not right I went ahead and removed the retracting truss assembly to check it out more closely and rotate the eccentric bushing so it would go as far into the wheel well. I ended up removing the truss twice (its a lot easier jacking with the eccentric bushing on the bench rather that on the airplane). Each time I rotated the bushing the front retraction tubes were installed and the gear was swung to check for interference, with the tire no longer rubbing I noticed that one of the retraction tubes would rotate and the other one would not (this is with the gear retracted and locked in), I lowered the lowered the gear with the J-bar and both retraction tubes spun freely and the bolts (rod end bearing at the J-bar) slid in effortlessly. I removed bolt on the one of the retraction tubes and raised the gear, then I moved the loose retraction tube up into place and it was just shy of 3/16” from the holes all lining up. The truss was removed and verified that all 4 eccentric bushing were in the same location (which they were) so I started looking for something bent, in my drawing (exploded view) the red colored tube is not in alignment with the other, it’s a pain to sight across to the other tube, but they are out from each other approximately an 1/8”, looking from one side the other side goes down, flip it around and the other side goes up, the other thing is one retraction tube the rod end bearing is screwed all the way in while the other has about 5 or 6 threads showing which would make it impossible to shorten the one rod 2 turns for the starting point on the preload…….Side note: all the above was only the nose wheel, no mains and no bungees, and the J-bar was easily locked and unlock from the gear down lock under the panel while sitting on the wing walk and reaching in the cabin

was the mixture adjusted?

AD's are not "Preventive Maintenance", the way I read 43.3 a pilot could replace the fuel lines but could not sign off the AD. There is an AD that comes to mind that allows a pilot to sign it off and that is the the one for Bendix Ignition Switches, the AD allows the pilot to "Test" the switch as described in the AD and if it passes sign off the AD.

There was someone on here that duplicated a set and was going to start selling them.... ?

David this is the tread I have read Johnson Bar Issues

Checked the eccentric bushing on the nose wheel retraction tubes, all 4 are at 12 O'clock. All 4 retraction tubes were removed from the J-bar, the nose wheel tubes were shorted 2 turns and re-installed and the mains were left at zero preload, J-bar was rotated forward (gear down) and once again could not see anywhere that it was touching except on the plastic as before. Removed the J-bar for a much closer inspection, can't see anything, one thing I did notice that there is a weld bead on both the short tube and also on the lever at the miter joint, you can also see the black paint is rubbing off from coming in contact with the plastic around the nose wheel well. Hopefully I will get another set of eyes on it tomorrow.

David, I bounce over to your thread on this issue and have seen this pictures. What you are saying is yours was bent at the small section of tubing that is welded (at an angle) between the cross bar and the tubing that is inside the cabin?

How much was yours bent? I removed the chrome handle and checked the entire length of the bar, maybe 0.005" off at the most is all I see. Headed back out after lunch to check at the eccentric bushings also going to check the small bungees in the main wheel wells to se if they are "coil bound"(several coats of paint). The one thing I don't want is the J-bar to break, so it will stay on the jacks till it gets resolved.

No bungees on the nose retraction tubes, not sure what's going on, I can get the 2nd bolt in, it just takes more force to do so

Mine wont, if the left side is installed 1st the right is too short, right side 1st left is too long ( talking Nose Wheel)

Spent the last few days looking over the manual gear system trying to find the cause for the excessive amount of force it takes to release and lock the j-bar handle from the gear down lock. To eliminate as much as possible all gear doors have been disconnected, the new LASAR lock block helped some but it was still just shy of a two handed operation when rigged. Two things that got my attention are as follows: (1) With all 4 retraction links disconnected at the J-bar, the bar does not go the last 3/8” to 1/2” forward so the handle will slide into the “Gear Down” lock with out a little forward pressure. This was not noticed before due to the fact that the 2 Bungee assemblies are still attached to the J-bar forcing it towards the floor. The bungees relax allowing the J-bar to become very easy the last inch or so before getting to the gear down lock. By pushing with one finger on the J-bar just below the handle and holding the release button with my other hand the handle snaps in place fully, the J-bar is hitting the plastic around the nose wheel well. Most of the older Moonies I have seen have carpet around the nose wheel well which is thicker than the plastic. So how much clearance should there be? (2) The rigging procedure calls for getting “Zero” Pre-load, then shortening the 2 retraction tubes going to the nose wheel. When set at “Zero” both bolts move freely in the rod-end bearings, when the tubes are shortened equally 2 turns the last of the 2 tube is difficult to install the bolt. I have checked and both rod-end bearings have the same thread pitch. The other (forward) ends of the nose wheel retraction tube have the eccentric bushings, could these cause the retraction tubes to not line up if the bushing are not set the same?

If its flying and in annual, keep it that way. Fly it around some, if you like it keep it, if not sell it as is.

Re-sale values should go up as rusty pilots get back in the game

Re-sale values should go up as rusty pilots get back in the game

Re-sale values should go up as rusty pilots get back in the game

I have a reconditioned handle from LASAR (re-chromed), taking my digital inclinometer out in the morning to see if I can find something out of alignment. Electric gear not coming down in the cold could be an issue, 20 minutes and I'm rested enough to swing the gear.....lol

Installed the LASAR gear down lock this afternoon, the gear was left in the "Zero" preload from the other day. With the new block in place the J-bar handle still required some effort to engage it in the block, but not near as much as before. I double checked the J-bar for straightness at three locations and all was good. Looking at the old block it seems the handle is off to the left side according to wear. Will set the preload back to zero tomorrow and remove the handle from the J-bar and check the last few inches to make sure it's not bent there.... as you can see from photo it was well past time to replace the lock block

Can't be welded (Heli-Arc) ?

I soaked the (2) leather pieces in hydrolic fluid for several hours, it was a slow go getting them back in the cylinder but they went.

Congrats and welcome aboard

The new lock block will be in Monday, once installed and with the (4) retraction tubes set at "Zero" I would think getting the handle locked and unlocked from the block should be almost effortless.

Originals are kept at home and given to the A&P/IA when needed, I take a digital photo of the new entry which goes on my computer.

I remember reading that and looking at mine at the time, hopefully this corrects the issue.

I have an original Mooney Maintenance Manual (Hard Cover) that came with the plane when I purchased it. While out at the hangar today I looked to see what it had to say about "Gear Rigging", it reads word for word as the current manual except the older copy has the part#'s for the items they are talking about. I keep referencing step "g" from above as the confusing part, with the part#'s in place you can reference the drawing which also has the part#'s and it becomes very clear that the front retraction tubes get shortened and the mains get lengthened. I'm currently double checking the rigging and the entire landing gear system, all over center torque values are in spec but I play hell getting the j-bar handle to release from under the panel to retract the gear and then the fight is on again to lock the handle back up when lowering the gear. I have ordered a new latch socket from LASAR as mine is worn, not sure if it will make a difference or not.