Hangar Floor Coating - Polyurea

[201Steve]

I just coated my hangar floor with an epoxy primer, and polyurea top coat. For those considering, as is expressed in others feedback, it’s a job! I went with the polyurea product for its fast cure time between coats, thinking I would get it done in 2 days pretty easily. It turned to 3 pretty long hard days, with 2 people working on it (my Dad and I). It was definitely one of those things that I’m glad I did but don’t want to do again. 
 

Day 1: fill expansion joints (I used play sand and a two part bonding liquid), grind out cracks for filling, patch various rough spots, grind the entire floor with a dual head diamond grinder rented from Sunbelt rentals. Use an angle grinder with Diamond cutter blade to clean up crack fillings and tight corners.  Clean up the mess of concrete dust with blowers and brooms. 

Day 2: Back to the angle grinder to smooth out some things missed. Continue cleaning up with brooms and blowers. Wipe down entire floor with denatured alcohol. All to get rid of dust. Apply tape to wall edges. Cut the edges with small rollers and brushes. Finally, apply the primer with rollers, which is a two part epoxy. The primer coat is recommended when Diamond grinding to help fill in the freshly roughened floor. 
 

Day 3: cut edges again, apply color coated polyurea with rollers. Go eat lunch, wait 2 hours. Apply second, clear coat, of polyurea. Cut edges again. Clean up all the trash you’ve produced. 
 

key take Aways:

-it’s not difficult work but it’s SLOW and tedious, and therefore exhausting. 

-floor grinders are SLOW

-Any crack you do not repair, will still be visible. 
-use hearing, breathing, and eye safety devices where necessary. 
-make sure your help is committed to hang in there with you.

-When renting a diamond grinder, **BUY THE GRINDING INSERTS IN ADVANCE** The rental store charges more for the inserts than the machine itself with a huge markup. Find out what model you are renting, and just order the right grinding inserts from the internet. It'll save you about $150

-Some concrete is mixed with fiber strands. I did not know this. If you want a lot of grip and friction for non slip, perfect,  do nothing. The coating “points” on the fiber strands  if like me and wanted very smooth, you must burn the fiber strands off with a propane torch.

Products from Legacy Industrial . Com

nohr-s polyurea Aegis kit

Before and after pics 

[Fly Boomer]

2 hours ago, 201Steve said:

Before and after pics 

I didn't do the work, but from here it was worth it!

[1964-M20E]

how much material did you use?

How many square feet of area?

What was the cost?

[Pinecone]

When I did my detached garage, I used a product called U-Coat-It.  It is a water based epoxy that actually soaks in and bonds to the concrete.

It has been in place for 20 years and no chips or lifting or other issues.  

I did not do a urethane top coat.  So mine is no shiny and it has picked up a couple of stains, but most come out scrubbing a bit.   If you urethane top coat, you need to add a traction agent, otherwise it is slippery when wet.  The straight epoxy is not slippery.

[Danb]

Nice Steve 

[201Steve]

11 hours ago, Pinecone said:

   If you urethane top coat, you need to add a traction agent, otherwise it is slippery when wet. 

I opted for no grit in the topcoat and it worked out good bc the fibers in the concrete create it anyway. 

[201Steve]

23 hours ago, 1964-M20E said:

how much material did you use?

How many square feet of area?

What was the cost?

I had 6 gallons per layer. Only used around 5. 
 

about 1650 sq feet

$3,800 kit with most tools and crack sealant

$150 misc supplies

$300 Diamond grinder rental and purchase the grit heads.

was quoted $11,000 for professional install