1968 paint

[Marion]

Its time to repaint My 1968 c model it has the original paint. The parts manual says it is acrylic enamel .  My automotive experience  tells me that it should not reflow with something like acetone but it does so did mooney not use hardner ? Thanks in advance  this will help me decide how to prep for repaint 

[MB65E]

Prep for repaint, Paint, or remove the paint??

if you wanted to clean up old painted surface to remove oxidation I have good luck with lacquer thinner on old paint bringing it back to an acceptable level of shine. I did that to a 400 series Cessna in college. Lots of work.

Im not aware of any concern stripping acrylic enamel or the need to refinish it with the same paint. Epoxy or polyurethane will be fine.

-Matt

 

[MikeOH]

On 3/4/2023 at 4:44 PM, Marion said:

Its time to repaint My 1968 c model it has the original paint. The parts manual says it is acrylic enamel .  My automotive experience  tells me that it should not reflow with something like acetone but it does so did mooney not use hardner ? Thanks in advance  this will help me decide how to prep for repaint 

My admittedly ancient experience is that old acrylic enamels did NOT use hardener and acetone would attack them!

[Kelpro999]

On 3/4/2023 at 6:44 PM, Marion said:

Its time to repaint My 1968 c model it has the original paint. The parts manual says it is acrylic enamel .  My automotive experience  tells me that it should not reflow with something like acetone but it does so did mooney not use hardner ? Thanks in advance  this will help me decide how to prep for repaint 

If you’re asking what to strip with, I use …D-Zolve™ 15-33R Aircraft Depainter Made by Solvent Kleene. It removes what ever paint you have on it now without corrosion or hydrogen issues, stays wet a long time and can be applied over oily/ greasy areas without pre washing. That’s the first step for me, next is…….

[Fly Boomer]

8 hours ago, Kelpro999 said:

If you’re asking what to strip with, I use …D-Zolve™ 15-33R Aircraft Depainter Made by Solvent Kleene. It removes what ever paint you have on it now without corrosion or hydrogen issues, stays wet a long time and can be applied over oily/ greasy areas without pre washing. That’s the first step for me, next is…….

Please continue!  There is zero chance I would try something that drastic, but I'm always interested in the process.  

[Kelpro999]

1 hour ago, Fly Boomer said:

Please continue!  There is zero chance I would try something that drastic, but I'm always interested in the process.  

Well, I did skip the very first step and that’s a complete inspection for problem areas like smoking rivets, cracks, deep scratches & dents  taking notes of location before stripping then again after.

2. remove paint  3. pressure wash  4. Make repairs found in step one yet no body fillers 5. acid & soap wash w/ scotch-brite  6. pressure wash  7. Alodine, rinse and while wet rinse again w/ di water 8. Apply wash primer or chromate epoxy very lightly 9. Apply 2k urethane high build surfacer primer during cross link period of wash primer 10. Body fill dents & scratches left from step  four followed by more 2k primer at each repair 11. Guide coat & block sand to at least 400 on entire surface 

12. now it’s ready for paint but that’s another process depending on what paint type chosen.

 There are other ways to get there but these steps work for me most of the time 

 

 

[Fly Boomer]

4 hours ago, Kelpro999 said:

There are other ways to get there but these steps work for me most of the time

I take it you do it professionally?

[Pinecone]

The progression of paints was:

Enamels 

Acrylic Enamels

Catalyzed Acrylic Enamels

Polyurethanes

Lacquers are a somewhat parallel path.

[Kelpro999]

3 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

I take it you do it professionally?

I did when lines were straight, overspray was normal and Imron was $75 /gal. 
 

[glbtrottr]

I did when lines were straight, overspray was normal and Imron was $75 /gal. 
 

I thought I’d amuse you with a little update on the cost of a gallon of Imron…wholesale and retail with identity hidden to protect the innocent…



Having a shiny paint job guaranteed for 10 years isn’t cheap…Imron is a tad more expensive than Jetglo - but substantially more durable Today’s aviation Imron is in many ways a waaaay better formula than the original contrary to popular belief…I have a gallon of original RED Imron and original hardener I’m going to spray on some plane for fun

[RoundTwo]

1 hour ago, glbtrottr said:

I thought I’d amuse you with a little update on the cost of a gallon of Imron…wholesale and retail with identity hidden to protect the innocent…



Having a shiny paint job guaranteed for 10 years isn’t cheap…Imron is a tad more expensive than Jetglo - but substantially more durable Today’s aviation Imron is in many ways a waaaay better formula than the original contrary to popular belief…I have a gallon of original RED Imron and original hardener I’m going to spray on some plane for fun

Wow! I did my Cherokee with Imron in 1990 and it had to be 1/10 that price back then.

[glbtrottr]

For super duper secret reasons we get to pay waaay less than that from the manufacturer and pass on the savings but yes the prices are proud …..


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[Shadrach]

On 3/6/2023 at 4:56 PM, MikeOH said:

My admittedly ancient experience is that old acrylic enamels did NOT use hardener and acetone would attack them!

Yep, MEK will take it right off. 

[Kelpro999]

7 hours ago, glbtrottr said:

I thought I’d amuse you with a little update on the cost of a gallon of Imron…wholesale and retail with identity hidden to protect the innocent…



Having a shiny paint job guaranteed for 10 years isn’t cheap…Imron is a tad more expensive than Jetglo - but substantially more durable Today’s aviation Imron is in many ways a waaaay better formula than the original contrary to popular belief…I have a gallon of original RED Imron and original hardener I’m going to spray on some plane for fun

That red is made of gold. I haven’t sprayed “new Imron” but the old could cover 220 scratch like a sheet of glass in one or two coats. Now it takes 3-5 coats over 400 with “automotive “ single stage urethanes using hvlp & hte guns. I get that base/clear looks great… for a while, unless kept out of UV, but nothing would last longer than old Imron. I have some 30+ year jobs that still look good today. Also found that old equipment doesn’t work well with new paints so not sure if new guns would work with old Imron like your red gold. You may want to test a few hundred dollars worth on a small piece before mixing a gallon 

[glbtrottr]

Lol you’d be surprised

I still have some green white and gold labeled cans of original Imron that I’m saving to spray …come on down and we will shoot them. I’ve got 5 of my own airplanes to shoot in between customer jobs and fun project company is always welcome. We can grill some meat and have fun.

Some of the ancient equipment from way back yonder is still used today. I have some Binks 2 and 2.6 gallon pressure pots that still use Binks 2100 guns along with some premier Iwata and Devilbiss guns.

The single stage Imron is still pretty great today. I showed the price of a gallon of base coat to illustrate price to your point. Prices have skyrocketed. Retail white single stage Imron is still north of $400/500, and besides a pressure pot, you can still shoot it with 1.2-1.6 needles. I recently handed one of my painters a fresh Sata 5500 RP 1.4 gun (versus the pressure pot guns he usually uses for trim) and he was pretty stoked - but paint is paint and viscosity is still the same - you want something that lays down 1 coat east west with a north south cross coat that looks like glass

Come on down…SoCal is sunny


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[Kelpro999]

19 hours ago, glbtrottr said:

Lol you’d be surprised

I still have some green white and gold labeled cans of original Imron that I’m saving to spray …come on down and we will shoot them. I’ve got 5 of my own airplanes to shoot in between customer jobs and fun project company is always welcome. We can grill some meat and have fun.

Some of the ancient equipment from way back yonder is still used today. I have some Binks 2 and 2.6 gallon pressure pots that still use Binks 2100 guns along with some premier Iwata and Devilbiss guns.

The single stage Imron is still pretty great today. I showed the price of a gallon of base coat to illustrate price to your point. Prices have skyrocketed. Retail white single stage Imron is still north of $400/500, and besides a pressure pot, you can still shoot it with 1.2-1.6 needles. I recently handed one of my painters a fresh Sata 5500 RP 1.4 gun (versus the pressure pot guns he usually uses for trim) and he was pretty stoked - but paint is paint and viscosity is still the same - you want something that lays down 1 coat east west with a north south cross coat that looks like glass

Come on down…SoCal is sunny


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I’d love to have that kind of fun but my job and projects keep me tied down. I’m in San Diego so yeah, the weather keeps me here . I’ve tried my old pressure pot but couldn’t get the needle vs pressure well enough with out massive overspray $$$ or wind waves in the finish. Ended up adding paint feed to an hvlp gun using an IV stand for pressure. All this was for single 2k mixed mfg recommendations. Seems to have viscosity of water when mixed to “correct “ ratios. Could also be brand I’m using plus little experience with new paint. They say new paint & equipment wastes less paint but I don’t see it after applying two or three times more coats.

 Where are you located ? I feel I have to hide painting where I’m at because of the environmental gods.