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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, skykrawler said:

Did you do this?

 

IMG_1568.JPG

I did not. This wasn't recommended to me. In hindsight I can see how that might be a good idea. My frame is still pretty clean looking FWIW.

Edited by gevertex
Posted
On 11/11/2022 at 7:44 AM, ArtVandelay said:


I think as routed it looks like it will interfere when operating the cowl flaps.

The inlet Scat can rub on the cowl if unsecured.  The outlet duct as you point out gets caught in the cowl flap control.

Posted
On 11/11/2022 at 6:41 AM, M20Doc said:

No better method of doing internal damage to a new engine than using the starter motor to build oil pressure.  Why do so many maintainers not have a pressure pot?  While it’s cranking away there is no lubrication to anything.  In the second picture the cabin heater inlet Scat duct is supposed to be routed around the #2 intake pipe and secured to it with Adel clamps.

Running starter with spark plugs removed is what lycoming recommends. 
 

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Pre-Oiling Engine Prior to Initial Start.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted

On doc’s advice I built a pressure pot to pre oil engines. It is now the official airport pressure pot. It has pre oiled 6 engines now. The guy that borrowed it the most just fills the sump with the pressure pot. 

Posted

I helped a buddy recently with an engine swap to a Lycoming six-cylinder TIO-540.    We had the plugs out and pre-oiled it by hand by turning the prop reasonably quickly.   It wasn't hard to do, and we were confirming oil flow by disconnecting the return line from one of the turbos and confirming flow there.  It worked way better than I expected.  We wanted to make sure the turbos had oil before first start, which worked, and then motored it with the starter and confirmed oil pressure on the gauge.   A pressure pot would have been unnecessary and more work in this particular case.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, EricJ said:

I helped a buddy recently with an engine swap to a Lycoming six-cylinder TIO-540.    We had the plugs out and pre-oiled it by hand by turning the prop reasonably quickly.   It wasn't hard to do, and we were confirming oil flow by disconnecting the return line from one of the turbos and confirming flow there.  It worked way better than I expected.  We wanted to make sure the turbos had oil before first start, which worked, and then motored it with the starter and confirmed oil pressure on the gauge.   A pressure pot would have been unnecessary and more work in this particular case.

 

It takes a couple of minutes to hook up the pressure pot. It isn't hard at all. Just remove one of the front oil gallery plugs and screw in the pipe nipple. My pressure pot is made from an old paint pressure pot. It has a 1 gallon paint can in it, just pull the paint can out, dump 4 quarts in it and lower it back into the pot. Clamp the lid back on and hook up the compressed air.

We have found that if you time how long it takes for air to get blown into the engine, and on the next gallon (or the third on a 12 Qt. engine) and let it run for half that time so you don't blow all the oil out of the engine. It doesn't take much longer than filling the engine by dumping quarts down the dipstick. 

I would agree if the engine was assembled in the last couple of days, the assembly lube should be sufficient, but it is cheap insurance that doesn't take long.

Posted

I’d add that there is a responsibility to a customer, different than doing it to your own engine or that of a friend.  But, in either case it’s still cheap maintenance.

Posted
9 hours ago, gevertex said:

It seems I said something controversial :D. I agree I'd want to use a pre-oiler for an engine that had been sitting and still had the spark plugs installed. 

Nothing controversial.  It just pains me to see maintainers mis treat these engines.  I once watched a competitor attempt to start a newly installed engine in a Mooney.  They cranked until the battery died, then got a second battery and repeated the processed and finally gave up.  I’d hate to think of what all of the internal parts endured with no oil pressure.  
 

Posted (edited)

Heard from mechanic today. Ops check found a few squawks.

  • Vacuum pump is dead
  • #1 and #2 EGT probes are dead
  • Right brake caliper is leaking
  • Stall warning horn goes off all of the time
    • Apparently it's controlled by a centralized board that handles all sounds.

Unfortunately, I have a new Garmin engine monitor with G3X touch (which means I no longer need the vacuum pump) waiting for me at the avionics shop. So some of this work is waste just to get it airworthy until the new panel is installed :wacko:. I also just replaced the engine monitor (EI UBG-16). Hopefully this is the last set of issues for a while. I realize not all of this is legally required to fly during the day, but I consider most of it prudent given I have new engine (overhauled). Vacuum pump is just good insurance for now.

Almost there!!! :)

Edited by gevertex
clarity
  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/14/2022 at 5:09 PM, M20Doc said:

Nothing controversial.  It just pains me to see maintainers mis treat these engines.  I once watched a competitor attempt to start a newly installed engine in a Mooney.  They cranked until the battery died, then got a second battery and repeated the processed and finally gave up.  I’d hate to think of what all of the internal parts endured with no oil pressure.  

I just searched for "pressure pot" online, and see a large number of choices.  How much oil should be forced into the engine before start?

Posted
31 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

My engine preoiler.

A 1 gallon paint can fits inside.

It was buried in my garage and I haven’t used it in decades. I cleaned it up and repurposed it as an engine oiler.

image.jpg

 

Do you fill the engine up with oil, then drain it back to normal levels? If you are adding oil surely that oil must come back out before you run the engine?

Posted
1 hour ago, Fly Boomer said:

Looks like 2 gallons is about average?  Seems like a lot of oil.

I fill the engine with the preoiler. I wrote about it above. It would be silly to fill the engine and then use the preoiler.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

I just searched for "pressure pot" online, and see a large number of choices.  How much oil should be forced into the engine before start?

The one I have hold 4 quarts of oil. I will run it until I see oil pressure showing on the ship gauge, seldom does it run empty.  Then I’ll top up the engine based on the oil stick.

Posted
On 11/19/2022 at 1:57 PM, N201MKTurbo said:

My engine preoiler.

A 1 gallon paint can fits inside.

It was buried in my garage and I haven’t used it in decades. I cleaned it up and repurposed it as an engine oiler.

image.jpg

@N201MKTurbo Do you think that same apparatus could be used to purge or prime TKS lines? Or too much px?

Posted
Just now, EricJ said:

Nicely done!   Getting close to first flight?

 

Getting close. Thanks goes to my mechanic John Car and team of AGL Aviation. Just a few squawks left to repair.

  • Brakes are not very effective.  Had to stand on them to hold the airplane still during run up. Looks to be coming from a leaking brake caliper
  • Stall warning horn goes off constantly. Replacement logic board is on the way.
  • Vacuum pump is intermittent. It worked eventually when I was idling at 1200RPM per checklist, but new one is on the way.
  • EGT probes #1 and #2 are bad

It's getting expensive, but it does seem like they are being through and doing a good job.

I am told this should be done Monday. I hope so.

 

  • Like 1

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