CharlesHuddleston Posted August 30, 2018 Report Posted August 30, 2018 So, wondering if anyone has info on rebuilding a fuel cap... I know you can replace the gaskets, but these caps, other than the center post, are aluminum. Has anyone ever tried to repair or replace the center post? I found replacements on eBay, but don’t want to just toss these in the trash... Quote
LANCECASPER Posted August 30, 2018 Report Posted August 30, 2018 Did that cap make it through your recent annual? Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Posted August 31, 2018 Nope, had to be replaced. I was wondering if if could be rebuilt now. Quote
RobertGary1 Posted August 31, 2018 Report Posted August 31, 2018 I think you could drive the pin out, clean it out and put a new split pin in. -Robert Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Posted August 31, 2018 And I did consider that, but the post/bolt head is pitted and eroded fairly significantly. I didn’t know if there was a source for the parts. I’m trying to go through Parker, that bought Shaw out a few years ago to see if they could/would sell the parts. Quote
Bartman Posted August 31, 2018 Report Posted August 31, 2018 Can someone fabricate a duplicate part ? I don't have any technical or machining knowledge and may be too expensive to consider. Just a thought. Quote
mooniac15u Posted August 31, 2018 Report Posted August 31, 2018 There are plenty of parts-donor caps that pop up on ebay. It shouldn't even have to be exactly the same cap as long as it's from the same series. Do you just need the one? I might have a spare. Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 1, 2018 Author Report Posted September 1, 2018 At this point, I am not in need of one. I found a replacement on eBay, and put new gaskets all around. I just hate to toss the whole cap when one part is rusted. I like rehabbing things, and as the entire rest of the cap (minus the main stem/bolt and the spring) are aluminum, I just thought if anyone had a source for that part, I could replace it and have a “like new” spare! 1 Quote
Guest Posted September 1, 2018 Report Posted September 1, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, CharlesHuddleston said: At this point, I am not in need of one. I found a replacement on eBay, and put new gaskets all around. I just hate to toss the whole cap when one part is rusted. I like rehabbing things, and as the entire rest of the cap (minus the main stem/bolt and the spring) are aluminum, I just thought if anyone had a source for that part, I could replace it and have a “like new” spare! I would think that any good machinist could turn the stud out of a piece of stainless rod for little cost. Or get the one you have cadmium plated. Clarence Edited September 1, 2018 by M20Doc Quote
mooniac15u Posted September 1, 2018 Report Posted September 1, 2018 8 hours ago, CharlesHuddleston said: At this point, I am not in need of one. I found a replacement on eBay, and put new gaskets all around. I just hate to toss the whole cap when one part is rusted. I like rehabbing things, and as the entire rest of the cap (minus the main stem/bolt and the spring) are aluminum, I just thought if anyone had a source for that part, I could replace it and have a “like new” spare! I might have a spare of just that part. I bought a few broken fuel caps on eBay and I've been slowly working on putting together two good caps from all the parts. My current caps work ok. They're just ugly so it's been a low priority project. Or if you aren't in a hurry just keep an eye out on eBay. You should be able to get a parts cap for about $20. Quote
RobertGary1 Posted September 1, 2018 Report Posted September 1, 2018 5 hours ago, M20Doc said: I would think that any good machinist could turn the stud out of a piece of stainless rod for little cost. Or get the one you have cadmium plated. Clarence Another issue is the plunger hole eggs out. I was thinking a machinist could drill it out and press a sleave in there. When new caps exceed $1,000 it’s worth a try. -Robert Quote
Yetti Posted September 2, 2018 Report Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) On 8/31/2018 at 3:30 PM, Bartman said: Can someone fabricate a duplicate part ? I don't have any technical or machining knowledge and may be too expensive to consider. Just a thought. It would take about an hour to make on the lathe. To be official you would need to Mill the flats, but you would also need to switch to the mill to drill the hole. The flats are probably used to hold for drilling the hole. Would probably also grind a bit to cut the grooves for the O-rings. Since fuel caps and water kill planes and people, you probably won't find a knowledgeable person that will touch it with a 10 foot piece of bearing rod. You won't find a real machine shop that will mess with making one because they are into big runs on computerized machines that have to be programed. This would probably be a good job for the online 3D Titanium printing. Just have several "prototypes" printed out. https://i.materialise.com/en/3d-printing-materials/titanium Edited September 2, 2018 by Yetti Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 2, 2018 Author Report Posted September 2, 2018 Wow, the titanium printing option is certainly an interesting topic! I might chase this one down the rabbit hole to see where it leads... Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted September 2, 2018 Report Posted September 2, 2018 25 minutes ago, CharlesHuddleston said: Wow, the titanium printing option is certainly an interesting topic! I might chase this one down the rabbit hole to see where it leads... The problem with printed parts is they are a bit porous. The SLS parts are probably better than the plastic parts, but it is still something to think about. Quote
ShuRugal Posted September 2, 2018 Report Posted September 2, 2018 13 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: The problem with printed parts is they are a bit porous. The SLS parts are probably better than the plastic parts, but it is still something to think about. nothing a quick dip in clearcoat or a solder bath won't solve. Quote
Hank Posted September 2, 2018 Report Posted September 2, 2018 59 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: The problem with printed parts is they are a bit porous. The SLS parts are probably better than the plastic parts, but it is still something to think about. Printed metal parts are indeed porous, that's why they are sintered after printing. This eliminates the matrix and shrinks the part ~25%. Shrinkage should be taken care of in the process, it's not something you need to worry about. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted September 2, 2018 Report Posted September 2, 2018 23 minutes ago, Hank said: Printed metal parts are indeed porous, that's why they are sintered after printing. This eliminates the matrix and shrinks the part ~25%. Shrinkage should be taken care of in the process, it's not something you need to worry about. https://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/15202/7-Issues-to-Look-Out-for-in-Metal-3D-Printing.aspx Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 3, 2018 Author Report Posted September 3, 2018 So, after reading through the issues/costs associated with metal printing, I think I will just invest in a micro-lathe, and turn the pieces from some bar stock. That way, I can make one or a dozen, and if it works out, I will offer them to those here on MS. After all, the community has been a great help for me. I like making things, and certainly like to be able to give back to others. I will keep everyone posted. 2 Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 4, 2018 Author Report Posted September 4, 2018 Happy Labor Day to me. So, Harbor Freight had a 25% off coupon... Here's take one. Threaded portion is a little longer, but that part is not the critical part. I have to say, I am very pleased with myself. 7 Quote
Hank Posted September 4, 2018 Report Posted September 4, 2018 That's genuine owner produced right there! Looks good. Shortening it would be simple, but requires a die to clean up the threads at the end whether you turn it, mill it or grind it. Quote
Yetti Posted September 4, 2018 Report Posted September 4, 2018 well done, did you cut the threads on the lathe or with a die? If you can find some of the heavy sulfur based thread cutting oil, it will help keep the threads cutting from spalling Quote
bob865 Posted September 4, 2018 Report Posted September 4, 2018 2 hours ago, CharlesHuddleston said: Happy Labor Day to me. So, Harbor Freight had a 25% off coupon... Here's take one. Threaded portion is a little longer, but that part is not the critical part. I have to say, I am very pleased with myself. Those look pretty good. When you get that down to a science, I would be interested in one, or two I may or may not have a similar problem on one of my fuel caps. Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Posted September 5, 2018 12 hours ago, Yetti said: well done, did you cut the threads on the lathe or with a die? If you can find some of the heavy sulfur based thread cutting oil, it will help keep the threads cutting from spalling Turned the shape on the lathe, cut the length, and then threaded with a die. Made a second one tonight, so now I have replaced both. Second one went a LOT quicker, and actually looks better. Quote
CharlesHuddleston Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Posted September 5, 2018 11 hours ago, bob865 said: Those look pretty good. When you get that down to a science, I would be interested in one, or two I may or may not have a similar problem on one of my fuel caps. I could easily be persuaded to make another one (or two). The piece of stock I bought was only about 3 feet long, so I might have a little extra! Shoot me a msg and I will see what I can do. Quote
Yetti Posted September 5, 2018 Report Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Well done. Since you are having so much fun why not upgrade to stainless? (as they probably should have been in the first place) Seems like if you could find the right size stainless bolt it would just be a cut the head off, cut down, rethread, drill some holes. Stainless is a bit more of a challenge to turn. Edited September 5, 2018 by Yetti Quote
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