Screws

[Guitarmaster]

With the annual coming up and the inevitable stripping of multiple SS screw heads, is there a better solution than SS for the many screws in the Mooney?  Something harder that won't strip as easily?
 

[RobertGary1]

Be more careful.

-Robert

[Yetti]

Good bits if you are using replaceable or good screwdrivers.   Like Snap on.   Realize there are two types of #2 phillips bits.  Change bits often. Start with a new one.

[Guest]

Standard steel screws and paint, generally stainless steel screws are softer.

Clarence

[Hank]

Be careful, and leave the electric screwdriver at home.

[Guitarmaster]

48 minutes ago, Hank said:

Be careful, and leave the electric screwdriver at home.

But... I'm looking for a quick, easy solution...  which reminds me, does anybody have magic pills to lose weight?

 

[Bob_Belville]

I just finished my owner assist annual. I bought a supply of cad plated screws this year as I've not been all that pleased with ss. I've found it better to loosen screws with a comfortable screw drive if there's any resistance and then use a little 4V screwdriver. I generally have the clutch set for low torque so unlikely to strip.

But you'll probably still need a screw extractor.

[jetdriven]

22 minutes ago, Guitarmaster said:

But... I'm looking for a quick, easy solution...  which reminds me, does anybody have magic pills to lose weight?

 

Break them all loose with a good tight fitting #2 screwdriver, then zip them all out with a drill and a screw bit. Same thing on reinstall. Run them in to about 1/16" to 1/8"  from torqued, then hand tighten them. It doesn't take much longer. The final torque on these belly and wing screws is highly variable. A drill clutch can't sense it but your arm can. 

[MARZ]

And when they do strip out (which you can count on) don't forget your left hand drill bit and extractor set

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Titanium-Screw-Extractor-4-Piece-1000367/207096485

Most time the left hand bit will back the screws out but when they don't the extractor will

 

 

[LANCECASPER]

+1 on the Speed Out

[RobertGary1]

Always start the screws by hand and set the torque to be low to you don't strip. Or worse, damage the backing. Get 200 screws in and find a bad  backing on the last and then start all over again.

-Robert

Edited February 5, 2017 by RobertGary1

[TheTurtle]

you want a couple of those ez out kits.  I seem to break one every time I use it.  I have lots of the big and small extractors around its the middle one I break a lot.

[Hank]

This is what I use on my panel screws:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/282348602675?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmtid%3D1588%26kwid%3D1%26crlp%3D53601919689_324272%26itemid%3D282348602675%26targetid%3D73951648147%26rpc%3D0.06%26rpc_upld_id%3D999%26device%3Dt%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252Flike%252F282348602675%253Flpid%253D82%2526chn%253Dps%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9012776%26poi%3D9031038%26campaignid%3D239125209%26adgroupid%3D14978428809%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-73951648147%26gclid%3DCMS-w73199ECFUg2gQodc-4Img%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1163532777349&ul_noapp=true

except I bought it at Lowes, on sale at Christmas a couple of years ago for $20 (this same kit). Always start every screw on a panel before seating any of them, it's easier to remove the panel if a screw won't start because a nut plate moved . . . .

This year, I finally got smart and used my electric driver to remove the screws, but break them loose by hand first so the bit won't spin and bugger the heads. Spruce sells replacements for everything, I buy them 100 at a time and replace any screws that are too tight to go in easily, and any with bad heads. Belly, panels, spinner. The little plastic washers to go under them are also a good idea, as I was worried by how the screw heads were cutting into the panels; makes 'em easier to break loose, too.

Never needed an EZ out on inspection panel screws. Don't put 'em in so freakin' tight!

Edited February 5, 2017 by Hank

[bradp]

Avdel Avex bits are great.

For hand tightening my favorite has been a #2 Phillips from Home Depot husky brand. It came in a set that included a bottle opener for like $10. It is tight and the shank is square so you can get a wrench on it if you need additional leverage.


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[Guitarmaster]

2 hours ago, Mike Ropers said:

And when they do strip out (which you can count on) don't forget your left hand drill bit and extractor set

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Titanium-Screw-Extractor-4-Piece-1000367/207096485

Most time the left hand bit will back the screws out but when they don't the extractor will

 

 

Yep.  Got one and have made good use of it!

 

[Guitarmaster]

2 hours ago, Bob_Belville said:

I just finished my owner assist annual. I bought a supply of cad plated screws this year as I've not been all that pleased with ss. I've found it better to loosen screws with a comfortable screw drive if there's any resistance and then use a little 4V screwdriver. I generally have the clutch set for low torque so unlikely to strip.

But you'll probably still need a screw extractor.

Where did you get your CAD plated screws?

 

[Bob_Belville]

6 minutes ago, Guitarmaster said:

Where did you get your CAD plated screws?

 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/economyscrewpack.php

(The steel plated choice is the cad plated.)

[MooneyMitch]

This is my experience. Unless you, or someone else has tightened your SS [or Cad or other] screws too tight, and the tool you are using is in top quality condition, there is no reason to strip out a screw.   When you are installing the screws initially, and they are binding or very hard to screw in, then clean the threaded hole with the proper size threader tool.  Then the screw will install easily.  No need to apply tons of torque on these. 

If you are doing your owner assisted annual, then more than likely YOU are the person removing and installing all the screws.  So, do not over tighten them and do clean the threads and don't try to force them. 

Again, just my thoughts and from my experience. 

[ken66770]

No one is mentioning using anti-seize compound when reinstalling screws? It's messy, but makes next year much easier.

[MB65E]

I love the Apex 446-2x bits! The are the best I've found. The newer the better. 

All the screws in my wing are cad plated. I replace each one if the bit skips. Keep them handy. They appear to be harder than the SS. 

one thing that works is actually tightening the screw first. Just until it pops/brakes by hand. That initial up torque will brake the screw loose thus saving the other side of the screw for you on the way out. 

-Matt

[Yetti]

How long does it take put the front two belly panels, the battery door, and one radio access panel?   1.5 hours.  All by hand.  The kobalt double drive is a handy for speeding things up.

to the original question

8-32 1/2 long

10-32 1/2 long

There are some really small probably 8/32 around the front wheel well on the #1 panel

might want to get some 10-32 clip nuts

Edited February 5, 2017 by Yetti

[Hank]

Better get some #10s that are 3/4" long if you have a one piece belly. They are great for getting started, two at each end and three or four in the middle. It's difficult holding that big panel high enough to get a short screw started. Yes, the extra 1/4" makes all the difference.

[ArtVandelay]

1 minute ago, Hank said:

Better get some #10s that are 3/4" long if you have a one piece belly. They are great for getting started, two at each end and three or four in the middle. It's difficult holding that big panel high enough to get a short screw started. Yes, the extra 1/4" makes all the difference.

My 1 piece uses camlocs.

[Hank]

2 minutes ago, teejayevans said:

My 1 piece uses camlocs.

That would be so nice! Mine has 48 #10 screws and five small #6s around the back if the nose wheel well.

[helitim]

"My 1 piece uses camlocs."

That would be sweet to have.