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About Huitt3106

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  • Birthday 10/15/1987

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  1. At Roanoke, Va I pay $385/ mo for an old t-hangar with sliding manual doors and partial concrete floor. Those are the cheap ones, I think the newer t-hangars with electric doors around around $455/ month. These are also owned by Signature... All the other hangars have fairytale waiting lists that are likely due to how they’re managed as mentioned above. When speaking with the manager about hangars at Lynchburg ($335/ mo) she said that one aircraft had left in the past year. We’re by no means in a metropolis like some of the higher hangar rents mentioned. Not much further down the road at KMTV hangars are $150 iirc. But that’s a 1.5 hour drive for me instead of 1 hour... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I would also be interested in what everyone else is doing to properly lean their carb’d birds. I have an engine monitor that displays temps (egt and cht) and can scan for the highest. I scan for the highest egt while in cruise and try to go at least 60 ROP. My CHTs seem to have a rather wide gap between the highest and lowest so I try and keep the highest at 380 or lower (I never get close to this high in cruise). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The retaining ring looks to be in pretty good shape. I put a whelen par 46 led in its place and I can slide it around a small amount if I try. I’m afraid it’ll rattle a bit while the engine is running. One contributing factor may be that one of the adjustment screws are missing. Do you know what size that screw is (or part #) so I could get a replacement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I’m working on changing out my landing light and found that the previous light was sealed in place using silicone. I thought I had read that there’s supposed to be a rubber seal of some kind behind the landing light but cannot find anything about it by searching. Does anyone know if there’s supposed to be a seal and what the part number or comparable size would be so I could make one? It’s a 1964 M20C. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I have no idea where a good shop is for that in our area but I see you’re also at KROA! I didn’t realize anybody on MS was so close. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I do have the older style. I do like the operation of the newer style though. I understand what you're saying and appreciate the you trying to help either way!
  7. No worries, I appreciate the information! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Do you remember the materials you used? What gauge and steel or aluminum? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. This is their link for the older style I’ll likely just figure out a way to fabricate my own. It’s hurts my CB soul to pay $175 for a used part that is made up of $1 worth of materials (I’m fully aware of the cost to manufacture low demand parts like this, not arguing with that aspect). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Definitely don’t want to have to buy a new one if that’s what you have.. Here’s their link for that (it’s not available). I called them earlier and they don’t have any available that match what I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. The link below is the one I'm looking for. My local MSC doesn't have anything available but they found the one in the link. I may have to install one as owner supplied.
  12. Who would be a good source for this? I’d prefer to do it this way depending on the price. Thank you! Matt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I need one for a C model. I don’t have any tools to do sheet metal work and was curious if there was another option anywhere. I’d like it to look similar to original if possible. Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Decided today would be a good day to fly to KFFA and hang out on the beach. We were not disappointed, I forgot to get a picture of the nearly full ramp at First Flight Airport prior to leaving. It’s a relatively short hop for us but definitely a great stop!
  15. I'm digging up an old thread here. To do the drop in replacement LED bulbs, you would have to replace the current green/ red lenses with a clear lens correct? Where do you get the clear lens? The part number according to this parts list ( is w1284. The whelen brand clear lens I found is like $217 on SkyGeek. Am I missing an easier (cheaper) way to accomplish this?