M20F-1968

They are available. About $50 each. Call Dan at Lasar for part numbers. John Breda

I tried using the Halo's last Fall and had a similar experience. I was able to transmit but with poor sound quality and ATC had a difficult time hearing me. Phil at Halo said that the mic circuit in my plane needs to be a "floating ground" which is independent of other ground circuits. I have not yet had a chance to test it but he described a procedure of testing where you check for a voltage drop with transmission. Give him a call, he will explain. Please let me know what you find out as I have not had time to pursue it. It is on my list of things to do, but not high on that list right now. John Breda

I am looking for a supplier for 2 1/2" high temp induction and turbo system hose material. I am presently using 5 year old hoses, that are straight despite the application requires a slight (? 20-30 degree bend). I would like to find an aviation supplier with a known product (never know what you get at a racing performance shop) that is flexible enough to use straight hose, or perhaps an angled hose or hump hose. Needs to withstand turbo temperatures. Also, many hoses are silicone, multilayered, but silicone is not the best around oil and gas. You knowledge and guidance are appreciated. Suppliers, web links, etc... are all welcomed. John Breda

My plane is my first and likely forever plane. I bought it as a project airplane. It is now one of a kind, represents what a vintage Mooney is and what a Vintage Mooney could have been if they kept making them. After dealing with some dishonest mechanics, I found good people and I made a conscious decision to finish with a nice airplane, which is why it ended up a Lindy winner last summer. The project part had a learning curve, it was difficult but rewarding in its own way. I mention the learning curve as there certainly was an aspect of education, and that is really the reason I bought instead of continuing as a club member. I wanted to know the airplane I fly, have something that was more capable than the Archer the club had, know how it was maintained rather than fly an unknown entity, know its systems and equipment, know how the plane responds and how I respond to it. My Mooney has taught me to fly in a way I would not have achieved had I continued to be a club member. It was an education in aviation and and an education in other ways as well. John Breda

I am at an airport which has routinely 20 knot, 90 degree cross winds. They are doable, but build up to it. Also, be mindful when you have not been flying for a while, as crosswind landing skills deteriorate with inactivity just like IFR skills. John Breda

You are asking a question that really has no answer. If new to the J, start no wind and little crosswind angles, and get a feel for the airplane, how it handles in different configuration, weight and speeds. Find your self a Mooney instructor (or even a Mooney safety pilot) and test out increasing crosswinds. It is as much, if not more about your knowledge and ability to instinctively handle your airplane, in various conditions, than it is about the amount of cross-wind component. Much different if gusty v. steady crosswind. I like crab to about 500 ft, then a stabilized approach hand flying with rudder correction until the flare so I know what the winds are like and how much of what correction I need. I do not like the crab n' kick method. I have been known to land with speed brakes (if you have them) so to be able to carry more power if needed. There are several ways to practice and several strategies. Learn what is instinctive for you, but more importantly learn how your airplane responds. Practice slow flight, at altitude in various configurations. Mooney's handle well in ground effect, which is good for landing, but something you need to watch out for on take-off when you leave ground effect (1 wingspan length). John Breda

Thanks for the info. I did eventually find a Lycoming manual and that is what they showed as well. Any reason why then prefer internal teeth lock washers as opposed to split. I was under the impression the split hold better. Or perhaps, the internal teeth hold better but are single use only. John Breda

I do know something about this one as well. When I did my rebuild, I thought the nose gear well cover Mooney made was poorly designed, poorly made and ugly. I set out to modernize it, if you will. I used the original to hand lay-up fiberglass with multiple sanding and modifications until it fit pretty well. That gave me my form, and then made my finished piece from that, using fire-retardant resin. I used the trim and flap indicator from the J (with DER approval) and modified the attachments to the clear sliders so the cable-ends (eyelets) are screwed into a nut-plate and will not come loose. I can make this part again, as i have the mold I made. FYI: This part took quite a long time to complete (It was a labor intensive part, and the plane was in TX and I was in Boston). Drop me a line and let me know your thought. I can get you a picture of the finished part, but what you see in the attached picture will give you a pretty good idea. (I do not know how to rotate the picture). John Breda

That should be Bendix Magneto Hardware..............

I am not near the plane, and even if I were, it is a bit difficult to use a thread gauge where the mags are mounted. What ate the AN numbers for the nuts which both the mags onto a Lycoming IO-360 ANA, and what locking nuts should be used? My mags are single mags, left and right. John Breda

Anyone with a lathe can make an aluminum (or other material) copy. John Breda

I have a chrome nose wheel covers produced by LASAR. You can see them in my profile pictures. I has have a pair of painted covers from the vintage days I would be willing to sell. John Breda

Something to consider about working with leather: I am presently working of a project to make a new Johnson Bar Boot. In the process I learned that goat hides more than sheep hides are more stretchy. They tend to stretch in one direction, usually across their width more than length. This is good when trying to wrap the yokes because the give in the leather will allow stretching it against irregular shapes. You really need to order some samples and know how the specific hides feel in terms of softness, stretchiness, suppleness, thickness, etc... When making your pattern, you can cut it so the leather will be a little bit tight. I have a couple of goat hides about 0.048" thick that stretch about 1" or more over a 10" range. John Breda

I sent you a PM. John Breda

I have the Rosen visors. At first I thought they were too bid, however I store them against the ceiling, length-wise (parallel to the long axis of the plane) and they are not in the way. I was going to cut them down but left them alone. John Breda

Does anyone have an electronic version of the Bendix parts and/or overhaul manual for Bendix BL-600614-2 and BL-600644-1 magnetos that could be sent to me? John Breda

Vance: Here are some pictures and information I can make out from the fuel selector I own but know nothing about. It looks very similar to an H&E. I cannot make out the manufacturer's name. Perhaps it starts with "CHR" The city of manufacture seems to be Solon, OH 44139 There is a part number CT - 2847 stamped on the label, but I may be missing part of it. also stamped is 003 which may be the last part of a serial number Manufacture date 3/92 It is build for a presumed low wing aircraft with a capacity of 27.4 gallons per side. (? Piper) Any ideas what aircraft this is from. Could it be an H&E retrofit candidate? John Breda

I am sure this selector is a copy of the H&E. I think only the handle size different. I will send a pic. John Breda

I have a fuel selector that looks for the most part like the H&E selector. It is much newer, and I have never overhauled it. I will try to get a picture and post it. It may be quite usable on a Mooney and may in fact be the alternate fuel selector that is now outrageously expensive. Does anyone have a picture of the retrofitted selector. As I remember, I believe the one I have was made in Ohio. I believe the label was damaged so the manufacturer's name is not visible.It is anodized blue aluminum and I am sure it is much newer than the 1960 H&E version. John Breda

My contact phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com. The 90 degree twist in the rudder hooks can be easily placed in the straight section. The metal can be cold worked without a problem in a vise and an open-end wrench. John Breda

I have been using York Gust locks for a long time. They are easy to install. I put them on the copilot side so I can install and remove them while outside the plane. https://gustlock.com/product_info.asp I have one for Piper aircraft which I am not using and can sell inexpensively. There are only 2 differences which can be easily modified. The long bar should meet the "T" in the middle of the "T". Cut the long bar with a hack saw and reweld it in the middle. Then put a twist in the two rudder pedal hooks by cold twisting each 90 degrees. That will convert the configuration so it can be used with a Mooney. If interested, I can send you a picture of the Mooney version. New they are expensive, but work quite well. The attached 2 pictures are of the Piper version. John Breda

Probably the 14" height. There is only a couple of inches between the retracted ram and the jack point. They are very stable however. To relieve the mains, I just used the 2 jacks and jack up the mains 1". To jack up the plane completely, I use the 2 jacks, an engine hoist (Harbor Freight 2 ton - about $175) and a concrete weighted tail stand, not to pull the tail, but just to stabilize it. John Breda

You want to get some Moving Quilts to cover the wings when working on the plane. Protects wings and keeps tools nearby. Can be purchased inexpensively on e-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Packs-of-Heavy-Duty-Deluxe-Eco-Quilted-80-x-72-Storage-Furniture-Moving-Blankets/192865134004?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ce7a865b4:m:myocU-Ys_p3r9UG5kRQjrWg&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXK4PLYVaIgu9w9Os2XtDHJeofFM1z0p75Tx%2FKzJZU9f5AzuBf43VTrWWFsLkZg2JVKkL9qTaHcfKj0WsP6EkOCFNJKDyBDU2KJoMyQ4MrX4%2FMequNeWxGtF8QDIgDndzeYyEcusNAchmmaoV5V9f6I1NepFXDTiBa6tO8zJnN8wVTg8q8a5HE0%2FK9hPNQ9WlH4sCx7kSmgHyOgIlBb8OjlXFtspVs2G82zeLNanfHd62JE276s5thTLiECv0nRloBimucLUuTOjn8Eq6DmILafNlrVqJlRD%2BuXQIVdDwo6ZlJiaOZwdMp5c%2FN6ATiVu%2BWOgv1XKqc3NUA5NVeAKh4dHsxl743fShzG%2FI%2B%2FzVN7eaksFE3WstyaHWeekArxiIXFd%2FdhOc%2FFWZ0ixrxHIEKZnk8qIby7Jul%2Fah3GPG09dfiZI2MEypqNd40VxWUVanF9%2F7olAiPfL%2Fp8UIH8gsTHDyEVMIU0Bb75gnWj9n1P8q95CB1bbYqhU5sy9RHDyOJjzc2GTEFCuzQ1%2FfBzNc7XIcq7QnSmlk3Tgf3tJwKu6KLT7IOPdcMP2DSJN2VfqaMQ0Tz2g63GVquyrcIMCqDMJWao1Fy5oxnzMVoB9XtkyYGsgTyRY%2BvHKu39CLSkrq9AV96IrFhWVj3IPDlzG1NburzmU9rxQVLM8mKDBFQQ8V5q%2FmOsLEwwNHivUcBWOJGMk6JiN13Qab%2Bf1bjO20QWOSe5Nar%2FNQivCHn0cix49B1n8hMl5uX4CTolO2I266d8&checksum=19286513400499f0df40295042f7b8ee2e9300c55fb6 John Breda

A pair of aircraft jacks with locking collars. Especially with extended tanks, you can and should take some pressure off the mains when aircraft is not used for a period of time. Helps with keeping the donuts healthy. Also, easier to get under the plane even if you are just cleaning. But get a good pair of safe jacks. Meyers are highly recommended. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/meyer_a500series.php Got my pair on e-bay for about $800 for the pair. Also an height adjustable creeper. This is one on Aircraft Spruce https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/aerocreeper-13-21329-38.php?clickkey=10349 I have a different one, but all adjust height and back angle. You can position yourself so working under the plain is not painful. John Breda