RDuplechin

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About RDuplechin

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/15/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carrollton, TX
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles!
  • Reg #
    N79383
  • Model
    M20E

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  1. Thanks everyone. I called Vantage Plane Plastics. They have this part number but it seems to be from a different model aircraft. It covers the entire end of the wheel housing instead of just the corner. For those of you that need this part I think it would work if you are willing to cut away the excess you don’t need. That was my plan B. I then called LASAR and they had the smaller one I needed for my airplane...the last one they say. It wasn’t cheap but it is brand new and I’ll be happy if I can just move the indicators over, attach the cable, and screw it in. I’ve had very good luck doing MEK repairs on the other plastic parts in the airplane but this piece was just too brittle and in too much of a high traffic area to last.
  2. Hi Everyone, I have the plastic housing that holds the trim and flap indicators that I need to replace. It had several fairly minor cracks that I repaired and repainted. I looked great but was obviously very brittle. My mechanic somehow bumped it and it exploded into shards. I suppose I could use it as a pattern and make something out of fiberglass but that sounds like such a beat down. I looked at the Vantage Plane Plastics website and did an internet search for what I think is the correct part number 130103-9 ( or possibly 740020-501) but I’m not coming up with anything. Has anyone had this issue and what is the best solution? Thanks, Rick
  3. I have a video of operation both up and down I can send you. The reason I’m keying in on the geometry is that with the cable disconnected the step is so free it falls out and can easily be pushed all the way up with one finger. With the cable attached it binds the last 6 inches going up. It is a slight bind that isn’t there with the cable unattached. Send me your e-mail and I’ll send you the videos if you like.
  4. Rob here is an update. The nav and strobes are independently grounded in the wing. I ran it up today and the gauges were rock steady...not a flicker. I love intermittent electrical gremlins. I pulled the step completely out. I scraped off 55 years of varnish and crud. It is better but still sticks. After further analysis I really think the upper attaching point needs to move up just a little. It appears to pull the strut into a bind at the very top of travel. I didn’t notice it before. More to follow after I do that...thanks.
  5. Robert regarding the step it is a hard stick about 5 inches from full up. The motor eventually stops running. Slapping or jiggling the step doesn’t do it. A gentle pull from above or kick from below gets it moving the rest of the way.
  6. Hi Rob, Thanks for the reply. I had an extra switch and extra space so I had him give the step its own switch. I’m not sure how he grounded the strobes but I will ask him. I didn’t think to try the strobes off to see if I still have the bouncing needles...but I will try that tomorrow. It’s a Whelan LED Nav/Strobe. I have the Nav and Strobe on seperate switches since my Tail Beacon ADS-B is in the Nav. I think all of that is isolated from the gauge cluster but I’m not certain of that. The step works great coming down...I’m still working on the up. It sticks about 5 inches from the full up. I used the Tri-flow you suggested and it is smoother. I’m planning on pulling the step completely out to ensure nothing is burred or bent on the step shaft or the channel it slides in. More to follow. Thanks, Rick
  7. I’ve got 2 issues with my 65 M20E that are possibly related. First, my left fuel sending unit was seeping and my A&P resealed it. Since the repair my fuel gauge is stuck at about 1/4 tank indication. Is there something that the A&P could have done to cause this or is it possible that this is a coincidence? My A&P also added LED Nav Strobes and an electric step STC. Since then 5 of the 6 gauges (L & R fuel, CHT, Ammeter, Oil Temp) in my cluster 22-166-09 have twitchy flickering needles. Is there a common power supply or common ground that could account for these bouncing needles? I’m wondering if there is something the A&P could have done while running wires and installing switches in the panel that could account for the issue with the cluster...or is it another coincidence? I’m not big on coincidence and now I’m being asked to believe in two. Thoughts? Thanks.
  8. I know the part numbers are different but does anyone know if 66 20F seats can be used in a 65 20E? I want to add head rests (and shoulder harnesses) to my 65 20E. I have found a complete set of matching seats from a 66 20F with real good upholstery for sale. I think the front seats should go right in to my 65 without problem but the back seats concern me. My current back seat in the 65 20E is one solid back. The 66 20F back seat appears to have a split back that looks like two bucket seats. Does anyone know if I can make the swap? Or, does anyone know the best way to get high backs and/or head rests on to the front seats of my 65 20E? Thanks.
  9. Do you still have the full system for sale?