M20F-1968

Look at the recent post including a flap diagram. It has a troubleshooting section as I recall, or at least there was mention of the condition that the flap pump handle springs back - it has to do with the operation of the flap pump and how fluid is flowing. I would have to review this myself but I do recall reading something there. John Breda

The two gear lights are driven by the switch in the down lock block and a reference to a switch on the throttle cable. About 12.5" of manifold pressure and gear still up triggers the gear horn. The green light may not come on because the switch position has moved. There is a long tang on the switch which may need adjustment or the switch may be mechanically loose of have moved from its idea position. The Johnson bar is great for its simplicity in operation and design. If the Johnson bar is securely in the down lock block, it doesn't matter what the lights show. The yellow or red light (depending upon your plane) show that the gear is likely up and advises you to look further. If you have a yellow or red light and believe the gear is down, grab the handle and pull down, try to get the handle to come out of the down lock block. If the end of the thumb-lock (chisel shaped) is engaged in the groove in the handle, the handle will not come loose without pushing the thumb release. If the handle does release with a downward pull without pushing the thumb-lock, the bar is not secure. Trying to pull the J-Bar handle aft is not a test. Trying to pull down is. The best aspect of the J-bar is that you can feel and test with your hand the condition of the Johnson bar and gear. If the Bar is properly engaged, all 3 wheels are down (provided the gear are rigged properly).

Can someone who knows the mechanics of H&E fuel selector and sump explain the following: 1) What is the Volume of the "sump" being drained 2) If the fuel selector is on "R" and you pull the sump ring, are you draining the "sump" and part of the Right fuel line? The same question applies when having the fuel selector of "L" will you be draining the "sump" and part of the L fuel line. 3) Similarly, when you are pulling the sump ring with the valve on "Off", I assume you are draining the "sump" only. I ask about the sump volume since if it were very small, it would be difficult to check for water unless you caught what you drained in a collection vial like you do with the tanks. Is the intention to drain the sump and R and L fuel lines which may have water. If so, then you must pull the sump ring twice, once for R and once for L (which is what I have been doing) It seems that it would be best to check the tanks first, insure no water, and then sump R and L. And be sure to check that the sump and drains do not leak before getting onto the cockpit. John Breda

I made this fuel selector extension with DER approval. It has a figure "8" shaped ring which is screwed to the floor with nutplates. The back side of it is flat on the floor with no carpet in between. The Fuel drain side of the figure "8" has a floor (is not a through hole) as is the other side, but is machined so the thickness of the aluminum will not interfere with the operation of the fuel drain. I took off the factory steel ring and used a ring from a key chain since it is easier to get on and off. The Figure "8" is 1/2" thick so it also holds the carpet in place. John Breda

I obtained by private license in 1985 and my IFR certificate in 1989. In retrospect, there was quite alot I did not know about flying an airplane back then that was simply experience based. There is a reason that trainers were built. They are much more forgiving. I would say gat your PPL first, build about 100 hours while working on your IFR and then decide. Not to mention, the insurance costs, tie down, maintenance and unexpected maintenance and other fixed costs will likely represent the bulk of what you would spend on rent. As a newly minted Private Pilot, I would look at airplanes a deciding what I might buy. in 1988 I put a deposit on a Piper Arrow. It looked pristine from the outside, but the prebuy revealed corrosion. I walked away. Good thing I did not buy it as I went to medical school two years later. I got my PPL at about 45 hours, then at about 55 hrs started working on my IFR certificate. Almost all my time from 55 - 125 hours were spent in a Grumman Tiger flying with its CFII owner, in Oregon in actual conditions. That time was invaluable. With a PPL and IFR rating you will look at what you want in a different light. With some experience, you will also be able to manage the responsibilities of ownership better as well. Owning an airplane, is a learning curve, and owning a complex airplane is still a more extended learning curve. Flying a complex airplane as a student gives you more opportunity to get into trouble. Without good control and understanding of the complexities and subtleties of a Mooney, it can bite back. As a student you do not know what you do not know. With experience a Mooney is a fun and predictable airplane to fly, but again recognizing what I did not know as a 40 hour pilot, and what one should know about flying when flying a complex airplane, I would recommend you use the best tools for your current mission, which would be a traditional trainer. John Breda

This little clamp can be used to clamp onto the Mooney bar above the glare shield: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZRMXXGV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This can go onto the camera side, It has both 3/8" and 1/4" threaded holes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/360-Degree-Swivel-Rotating-Aluminium-Tripod-Mount-Adapter-Universal-for-GOPRO/263387202079?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Then you can pretty easily make a threaded part to connect the two out of aluminum. (You could also 3D laser print such a part if you are not good with tools). I am working on this project for myself. John Breda

Now that I am spending more time social distancing, I thought I would spend some time cleaning, waxing and laking care of some items on the plane. I have seen some posts about "ceramic paint coatings" for aircraft and other vehicles. Curiously, many of the supplies are only sold to "installers." Is these products worth looking investigating? I likely would be interested in doing the work myself given that I have the time and a suitable hangar. What paint preservation products are worth considering. Does this "ceramic" product change the paint chemistry so if one needed to do a repair adhesion would be a problem? Has anyone had experience with this? John Breda

The mains and the aux tanks are connected. There is some resistance in the connection, and when the mains are filled to a level that allows flow into the aux tanks, that occurs. However the flow rate from the main tank to the aux tank is slower than the max rate you can fill the main tank. Thus, you fill the main tank and close your hangar door. The fuel runs from the main to aux tank over the next 15 minutes or longer. Thus you think fuel ran uphill. It was really running downhill slowly. John Breda

If you have had a recent physical or if they know you well they might. John Breda

One way to deal with this is complete the requirements for the Basic Med. See your PCP, have him complete the form, do the on-line test, and when you are ready to renew your medical, Do So. Of course, that is only if Basic Med will cover the type of flying you are to do. Then you will have met the requirements of both the FAA and the insurance company. John Breda

I should add that I have GTN-750 and GTN-650 with a G600. On missed, the unit sees the missed approach course as a GPS track in GPSS steering. It took me awhile to recognize that the GPSS/VLOC(HDG) button only work with the STEC 60-2 in NAV mode. So, when you go missed, you press NAV on the autopilot and GPSS on the GPS/NAV button. This puts you in GPSS mode. If you press HDG on the autopilot and VLOC(HDG) on the GPSS switch, you are in HDG mode only and following the HDG bug. In order to intercept the VOR inbound for the hold using other than GPSS guidance, you will need to put in the VOR frequency and radial in your second Nav/Com when you set-up the approach and switch over tho that. I have my second NAV/COM wired so it can drive the G600 and NAV-2, or it can drive (as it is hard-wired to) a Garmin 106 Glideslope/VOR indicator which is always there as a back-up. John Breda

This is essentially correct, but let me add a few things that caught me up while I was learning this system: 1) When flying an ILS front course, or for that matter an ILS back course, the inbound course direction must be set on the course selector. Your equipment may do this automatically (but check that it does otherwise you will need to set it manually). 2) The NAV mode is used for tracking inbound on the front course and outbound on the Back course. The REV button is used for tracking inbound on the back course and outbound on the front course. 3) Once you load or load and activate the ILS approach, you will need to switch the ILS NAV frequency from standby to the active NAV frequency. 4) Verify that you equipment switches to VLOC. If it does not do this, you will need to do it manually. 5) You can intercept the ILS in one of 2 ways: 1) Use HDG and ALT with your heading bug, and or hand fly the plane to intercept. When you are 60% below the glideslope and within 50% deviation of the Localizer, just hit NAV. The autopilot wit=ll look for the Localizer and glide slope. When established on the Localizer and glideslope, ALT will be off and GS will be illuminated - or 2) you can press HDG and NAV together, then ALT. For all S-TEC autopilots, you have to establish a roll command first before it will accept a pitch command. When the Localizer is found, HDG will be off and only NAV will be lit as the roll command. ALT will extinguish and GS will illuminate when the GS is coupled. 6) If you come in too high (even though you are below the glideslope but just too close to it) the autopilot may try to couple to the secondary glideslope above the real one. Watch out for this as the autopilot may just keep raising the nose and put the airplane into a stall. It is important that you watch your HSI when you expect the GS to couple and you are sure that the autopilot is following it down. 7) Recognize that the ALT button is used to manually arm the GS if it does not arm when you intercept, BUT, the NAV button is used to disengage the GS and pressing the NAV button again re-engages the GS. When NAV is pressed to disengage the GS, DISABLE will illuminate and GS will flash. When NAV is pressed again, DISABLE will go out and GS will stop flashing. 8) On missed approach, when you press activate missed, the missed approach leg should be seen on your map. If you press HDG on the autopilot and GPSS on the GPSS/HDG switch, you will activate the GPS steering which should follow the magenta line to your missed approach. You can hand fly the vertical speed or put the autopilot in VS. At this point, I usually hand fly the vertical speed as there are enough transitions you want to be sure you are climbing and on the Missed magenta line. John Breda

If I am leaving the plane at a larger airport where there may be a change (and likely probable) that the left hand does not know what the right hand is doing, I use one of these- I like the idea of the cards, and think I will make one with the reasons why the plane should not be towed by a tug, the turning limits, and my cell phone number if it really needs to be towed and I can return. The statement that the aircraft was checked at the time of parking and known to be damage free can also be added. I also use a York Gust Lock if outside: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/yorkgustlok2.php?clickkey=4469 and that can be another reason written on the card as another reason why the aircraft can not be towed. The gust lock reminds me to remove the lock on the nose gear, as will my walk around which is mandatory given the the plane was left in someone else's hands. John Breda

Taking the assembly out is not the problem. It is taking the box apart that encloses the gears. It seems like it was built with the intention of never being taken apart. I'll have to look at it again (I have a spare which I can use to investigate). Is the box put together with roll-pins only? If so, they must be in blind holes. I do not recall exactly without seeing the box again. I had a mechanic who took one apart and could not get it back together. Perhaps I start with that, clean it, grease it and reassemble it. John Breda

Has anyone attempted to open and re-lube the gearbox in the trim assembly? I thought of doing that at one time, but decided I had better learn more before attempting. It seemed that it is meant not to be disassembled. I have a 1968 F, the trim has minimal slop (? <3/8"). Just like machine tools, the lead screws and gears need some slop to operate. This is then worsened as the part wears, thus the need to keep well lubricated, and thus my desire to open the gearbox, find out what is there and re-lube to assembly. John Breda

My reasons for endorsing the manual gear are: 1. Simplicity of maintenance 2. An independent system much less prone to failure 3. Much less concern over parts availablity as the airframe gets older John Breda

Does a lowly turbonormalized F model count as a "turbo." John Breda

You guessed correctly. Fuel burn at 75% power, about 23-24 squared is about 10.5 gallons per hour. John Breda

Close to sea level - 150 kts 10,000 feet, 75% power, 158-160 kts 10,000 feet - everything forward - 168 kts 17,000-18,000 feet - 75% power 175-180 kts John Breda

Yes, it has the flush rivets. Now essentially an MSE except with Johnson Bar, Hydraulic flaps and No Inner Gear Doors. John Breda

Yes, it has the flush rivets. Clean wing. Now it is essentially an MSE except with with Johnson bar, Hydraulic flaps and No inner Gear Doors. John Breda

I had a pleasant experience along these lines just 2 weeks ago. My plane was at N87 for some work. I flew it down and took the train back. Two weeks later the COVID issue was heating up an a fellow Mooneyspacer flew me down to pick it up. Worked out well for both of us. OWD to N87 - 1:40min. Zero Covid risk. It is nice belonging to this group. Felt quite safe flying over JFK at 7500 ft. John Breda

Clean wing, maximum flush rivets on wing, recessed inspection plates. Johnson Bar, hydraulic flaps, twisted wing, smooth elevators and smooth long rudder. (and now all J model speed mods except inner gear doors) John Breda