M20F-1968

I can make more of these if necessary. John Breda

How much did he trim back? Any pictures? Did he use insulation that has an adhesive the sticks to the skin. I used the Soundex stuff, which does not have any adhesive. It is just put in place in between the tubes or other compartmented areas. It has a aluminum foil-like layer that can help hold it in. I used aluminum tapes as well. John Breda

Good job getting it down on its wheels. As I was reading your story however, I was thinking that this is a problem that is begging a go around, just to have some time to sort out the issues, in an unrushed manner and make sure you do not become the victim of a distraction. Your solution and result would likely have been the same, but if there was no real emergency and you had the luxury of time, go around, tell ATC what you are doing, ask for a straight and level segment, put the autopilot on at a safe altitude and take your time. The nut could work its way loose and fall off the threads, which is likely what occurred. Some Blue locktite might be nice. When the nut backs off, the J-bar handle will be allowed to extend further. You may notice this change or you may not. Make it a point to periodically check the nut's position. My plane is on jacks now as I am practicing my leather sewing skills to make a new J-bar boot. You have just reminded me to check mine. John Breda

If I were to use spacers as suggested above, what material should they be made of? Seems like making aluminum or Nylon would work. What may be best? John Breda

This part can be made from fiberglass as a free-hand lay-up even if you do not have an original. To give you an example of what is possible, the pictured part is a free-hand lay-up part for my F for the wheelwell cover. You can start with modeling clay, wood, styrofoam, anything that gives you a starting shape. Then sand, cut and re-fiberglass as needed. Your final part (if you make an initial model and use it as a mold) should be made from flame retardant fiberglass resin. John Breda

You are much better off without the access panels, and using the factory cowl deck. However, you must then design direct access to the avionics by having the equipment and trays slide out of the panel into your lap. John Breda

Phillips X/C 20/50 is designed for break-in and may be continued for the life of the engine. With the RaJay you have a non-turbo charged engine that thinks it is at sea level all the time. Add CamGuard when oil consumption stabilizes. Fly it like you stole it while breaking it in. John Breda

I have a F7666A-2, HC-C2YK-1BF Hartzell Propeller on my 68 F. It has a restriction of No Continuous Operations between 2100-2350. I have been repeatedly told that low power situations such as in the pattern are not a problem and are not "Continuous Operations" and you may operate in this "restricted" range for landing. This has seemed reasonable to me. You have to get down and you have to control the airplane when doing so. Is there anyone here who has information to the contrary? John Breda

McFarlane has this new-fangled throttle that sounds interesting. I like the friction-lock throttle for the last 5 feet of altitude in the flair. This one from McFarlane is interesting, if they could also install the gear warning switch on the cabin end of the cable. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/approved-va-throttle-new/ (Sorry - left out the link the first time) John Breda

McFarlane has this new-fangled throttle that sounds interesting. I like the friction-lock throttle for the last 5 feet of altitude in the flair. This one from McFarlane is interesting, if they could also install the gear warning switch on the cabin end of the cable. John Breda

When painting interior parts, use a two part epoxy paint designed for aircraft interiors. Much more durable. John Breda

I am doing some work on my engine baffling, which includes remaking the part the air filter mounts to (J model configuration). My baffling has extensions which reach down and around the cylinders, and twisted safety wire was used under the cylinders to hold these parts against the cylinders (to encourage air to travel past the fins rather than elsewhere). Mooney makes long spring-like parts to use to hold the baffle part against the cylinders. I would like to see what those parts look like. I want to be able to hook the rear baffle extensions from the front and then pull them forward and hook the front extension. The ideal part would be a spring with long reach arms. Apparently the Mooney parts are expensive. Are there any generic parts that could do the job? Any better way to think this through would be appreciated. John Breda

There is a Mooney retrofit number for the Weldon fuel pump. Better pump, more reliable and available. Ditch the Dukes. John Breda

When I was doing my rebuild I added co-pilot brakes. I called Bill Wheat for the system drawings and he stated that there have been several systems installed in the Vintage planes over the years. He did not like to system which has a shuttle vale which attempts to isolate the pilot and co-pilot brakes. He sent me the most straightforward simple system with no shuttle valve. You might look into what system you have if you are having difficulties. The plumbing can always be changed to match the most desirable system. John Brea

Actually I took mine off - not good with a Johnson Bar. John Breda

Unless there is something obviously loose and recognizable, ie. the hardware at one end is loose, the outercable has slipped; here is nothing in the throttle cable assembly which should stretch or change. The control, cables need to be 100% reliable, without exception. There is also a useful life. How long have they been in there? Too many owners try to push things out and save some money, only to find that they have suddenly (and they think unexpectedly) lost control of their airplane when they had plenty of warning. Flying is not an endeavor where one should allow unexplained events go un-noticed, particularly in systems with no room for error. Noting what you did, and not finding a clear reason is allowing the problem to go un-noticed. The explanation your mechanic gave, cable may have stretched, or it is OK, u=is not giving you and answer as to why the event has occurred. There are all sorts of mindsets and abilities in A&P mechanics out there. Many of them i would not let near my airplane. You want someone with high standards and a high level of suspicion. You said your mechanic thought the cable had stretched; control cables do not stretch, they are not under sufficient load. They do bind, fray and break, all are un-welcomed. I would want to inspect the cable, but you can not since it is quite a bit of work to get it out. It is simply easier and safer to replace it. You do not want it coming apart in your hand at 10,000 leaving you unable to control power or be left with only a mixture control to do so. Not worth the $500 bucks you might "save" only to cost you more in the end, or worse. It is much easier to troubleshoot and work on an airplane when it is on the ground instead of in the air. John Breda

I looked at only the first 1/2 of this thread and decided I had seen enough..... This is without a doubt a safety of flight issue, REPLACE THE CABLE AND HARDWARE COMPLETELY and do not fly the plane until you do. Anything else is throwing good money after bad, and gambling and off airport landing, OR WORSE! It looks like your other control cables are old and in need or attention (probable replacement) as well. John Breda

My mechanic tried that route and the scale was cut into the travel board itself (Aluminum). The geometry was not accurate. One could cut the travel board outline byt laser or other similar device, but the scale should be hand fitted and calibrated. I think it would be unlikely that the CAD file can be programmed so that the scale is appropriately and accurately aligned and cut out into the body the the Travel Board the first time. it would likely be a more involved trial and error process. An accurate protractor scale, hand fitted and calibrated to the rest of the Travel Board, and attached so it would not move, is likely an option. Then there is the question of how to make the scale. They have been made by graphics arts (sign shops) as a full scale copy, but these would be acrylic mounted on a har surface. Silkscreened is not work. John Breda

I have made travel boards for myself and have the necessary templates to do it again. The problem comes is that making them by hand is an arduous process. If there are enough people interested I may be convinced to make them again. John Breda

If you have a Continental engine, I have an fuel selector and separate gascolator which are almost new - 400 hrs TT. Are you sure you have a J model with a Continental? The selector I have came off a 1998 Ovation. John Breda

My prop is at New England Propeller in CT now. Spoke with several people who recommended them. $2600.00 was quoted. They even picked it up for me. John Breda

I have 14 newly rebuilt Rochester Fuel senders available for sale. They are 8 of part number 610242-1 (inboard), 5 of part number 610243-1 (outboard) and 2 of part number 610243-3. (See pics). They will fit the F and J, and likely others but I have not researched the part numbers for other models. They are all recently rebuilt by Air Parts of Lochkaven and have the accompanying return to service documents. I had them rebuilt as back-up parts but then a JPI 930 which is fully digital capable and put in the Cies senders. I converted from the resistive senders to a fully digital frequency based system. I am asking $250.00 each for the Rochester senders. My cell phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

I have 14 newly rebuilt Rochester Fuel senders available for sale. They are 8 of part number 610242-1 (inboard), 5 of part number 610243-1 (outboard) and 2 of part number 610243-3. (See pics). They are all recently rebuilt by Air Parts of Lochkaven and have the accompanying return to service documents. I had them rebuilt as back-up parts but then a JPI 930 which is fully digital capable and put in the Cies senders. I converted from the resistive senders to a fully digital frequency based system. I am asking $250.00 each for the Rochester senders. My cell phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

I have 14 newly rebuilt Rochester Fuel senders available for sale. They are 8 of part number 610242-1 (inboard), 5 of part number 610243-1 (outboard) and 2 of part number 610243-3. (See pics). They are all recently rebuilt by Air Parts of Lochkaven and have the accompanying return to service documents. I had them rebuilt as back-up parts but then a JPI 930 which is fully digital capable and put in the Cies senders. I converted from the resistive senders to a fully digital frequency based system. I am asking $250.00 each for the Rochester senders. My cell phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com John Breda