Browncbr1

brittain makes a plunger valve that you can use instead of the button on the yoke. disconnect the latex tub from the yoke shaft under the panel and reroute to the plunger, which would be mounted somewhere on your panel that can fit about a 1/4" hole. Then pull the button out of the yoke and run your wire through it all the way down to where the latex tube was disconnected... use a momentary switch that fits in the hole..

I buy these in 3 pack boxes for under $10. http://www.damprid.com/product/hanging-moisture-absorber-fragrance-free Depending on humidity, one will last a couple months. I hang it on the coat hangar and it stays there. For warming, I have a small ceramic heater, but I I just plug it in when I arrive and let it run while I'm doing preflight.

Even though I recommended a PPI earlier in this thread, my experience was similar to yours. I spent time with the owner and also met his mechanic. The owner built an rv10 on his own including the motor build... He was a retired engineer who had my F for 27 years and just selling because he finished his RV and was starting to fly it exclusively. The boiler plate issue is that I developed not only trust in him that he was extremely knowledgable, but also that his maturity and morality was sound. He really pushed me several times to arrange a PPI, but I felt that I could trust him and his mechanic. I was dumb, but for me at the time, the litmus test was that the term of the deal was that he would fly it 4 hours to my home field and I covered costs of hotel and getting him home. I figure that ferry alone was worth $2k. But, if he trusted the plane with his life for 4 hours over unfamiliar and mountainous terrain in the winter, I figured it was a good starting point for me. Basically, when I looked at the plane, I just checked for any sign of corrosion anywhere I could. My first annual turned up nothing. One of my tanks leaks a little more than it did last year, but I already knew that was coming. I consider myself extremely lucky. Especially since you really don't know ANYTHING until having owned a mooney and worked on it for a long time. IMHO, when it comes to GA, the owner pilot must intimately know every bolt on the plane and how every system works. It's a continual education, which is why many of us visit this site everyday to learn from others' problems so we can watch out for the same thing possibly coming up on our own plane. There is no way I would ever do it that way again, knowing what I know now. Even more so if I were buying from a broker. If a seller resists complying with a PPI, then all the more reason to get one. Do leave it up to luck like I did. Trust, but verify.

Statistics don't account for the individual though. do you think your health insurance rate should be tied to your actual health or zip code? Did your mooney insurer ever visit you to evaluate your skill, ability, and condition? Doubt it. Risk is not universally equal, although usually pooled that way by insurers. IMHO

IMHO , salesmen often don't even know what they are selling. Yes, get a prebuy, but make sure your guy is very good and you fully trust him that he knows his stuff, especially if you have never owned a mooney before.

Soak the injectors in hopps. Do the glass jar procedure 3 or 4 times without injectors attached to the lines. (After installing the rebuild spider) Verify equal distribution and no debris. Spiders have rubber in them. I don't trust one that is more than about 10 years since rebuild. They are super cheap to overhaul, for peace of mind. Good luck! Btw, I wouldn't take much stock in "worn out injectors".

Thanks for enlightening me!

I remember reading it somewhere and glanced over this thread again, but can anyone remind me what is wrong when the engine doesn't fire until you release from cranking on the ignition switch?

+1. Should be about $200. Shortly after I bought my plane, I experienced a partially plugged injector shortly after takeoff. So, I had my entire fuel delivery system rebuilt after we found debris kept coming through the lines. The cost to overhaul the servo, pump, and spider was $1200. I consider this as cheap life insurance and a bargain for peace of mind, knowing what you have under the cowl. If you have any debris in the fuel, I recommend doing this and overhaul the gascolator. Some will argue to overhaul the fuel selector also. Oh yea, I forgot. When you are pumping fuel into the solo cups like I posted earlier, toggle the fuel selector valve back and forth continuously, as it will help break up any debris that may be collected in the valve.

Take all the injectors off and put the end of the lines so they pour into solo cups. Turn on electric fuel pump. Have someone outside and tell you when to turn off so that the cups are about halfway full. Verify each cup is evenly full and without contamination / debris. Do this a few times.

It's a sickness and the only medication is 100LL.

The value is actually in the valve due to scarcity. The accutrak box, last I checked with brittain was around $600 and they had a few in stock that were reworked with different type switches. I wanted to buy one, but thought it should wait as I still haven't installed my accuflite or alt hold. If I were you, I would go ahead and install it. Just my opinion, but I doubt anyone would actually pay as much as some have suggested.

E.... The extra 10" backseat legroom doesn't generate excess value for the company investment as described. Also, what will you tell your boss if you are stuck due to ice or whatever? Personally, if I were you, I would buy the plane you want with your own money and bill the company an hourly rate and let them pay for the hangar and insurance.

According to the flightaware data in the link, that's actually a G model. It says 180hp.

That happened to me early this past year. Now, I push on the arm rest and also the headliner to verify the door is latched at both locations.

Some of you mentioned %HP as displayed by jpi is wrong when LOP. When setting up cruise, I reduce rpm to catch 65%, then go lean of peak. I see the %hp drop to around 50-55%. Does this mean I can increase rpm or map to get back up to 60-65%hp? I had understood that around 60-65% power is ok to go LOP. But, I had assumed that power level is for when ROP before pulling ff back.

If you're thinking of curtains, just go ahead and dress your headliner edges with red velvet tassels like a Latino taxi cab.

After thinking more, I think the #4 tanis probe and CHT collar may be getting loose or the fire sleeve may have come off.. I had replaced the tanis probe a month ago and may not have gotten it tight enough.

I noticed the CLD alarm going off on takeoff roll recently. We have had cooler weather, so that might be what is causing it, but wanted to check if anyone has any advice. my CLD alarm is set to 30 degrees per minute. the only cylinder temp that goes down is #4. I assume it drops from the increased air flow at the beginning of TO, but none of the other cylinders do this. There is no vibration or noticeable loss of power. #4 CHT drops about 20 degrees, then starts to go back up.. OAT was 53F. This hasn't happened in the past with warmer OAT. Any ideas or concerns I should watch for? Gami spread at 2500rpm/21" is .8 with #3 and #4 peaking together before #1 and #2 together. Gami spread at 2250rpm/23" is .6 with the same peaking tendencies. I have tanis probe CHT collars for the JPI.. I'm going to check to see if the sleeve slid off or something, thus allowing air to flow directly on to the cht probe.

There are some films that have some kind of UV resistance... It's big in power sports in general. most RVs, boats, and quads also use vinyl graphics. The problem is that wax buildup occurs at the edges if you wax over them.

Since we are talking Brittain, I'd be in the market for a B-11 unit.

I sort of do the same think. Pull the gear up maybe at about 100ft or so. Depending on DA I will retract flaps earlier or later. How long to you guys leave in your flaps? I usually raise flaps around 95-100mph, but in high DA, I will try to climb a little steeper and leave the flaps in until getting close to TPA. I might be wrong, but it seems the flaps help Vx a little bit at high DA?

Yes , all features integrate across platforms. You can plan on PC and it automatically populates your iPad or phone with everything and visa versa.

I have been talking to the nice folks at fltplan.com. They are about to release a new version probably next week as soon as Apple approves it. Meanwhile, they already submitted a second update to Apple that should be available to the public in about 3 weeks. fltPlan Go will have AHRS split screen on the second update!

I have found that my JPI shows consistently about .1-.2 volts less than actual. I figured it was because of some kind of hard wiring on the circuit board that takes a voltage reading after the unit draws power instead of before. This might be a false understanding of how electronics work, but I have a cigarette adapter that has a voltage reading that is the same as what my voltmeter tells me. However, the larger difference you are explaining seems like something may be wrong with your JPI ...