Browncbr1

Any advice on what I'm looking at ?

pfff... (trying to type a fart sound)

looking for a good clean MAC 1700 with no problems for a reasonable price to slide in replacement of my KX 170b, which works fine. Just want the flip flop

I have 6 ply airhawk tires ... new last year and reused the tubes.. so far so good.

congratulations! Yes, they are awesome.. I recommend you fly the pattern a little faster... if you always fly like that, sooner or later, you will turn base carrying a gross load and will tip stall the wing, game over... I fly the pattern 90-100 and slow down to 85-90 on final, 80-85 over the numbers... do not get low and slow... Regarding your MAP gauge lag, check the aluminum vacuum line fittings... mine recently broke on the small line where it goes into the reducer fitting that goes to the larger lines... It was easily re-flaired for a tight fitting. Years of vibration will break aluminum eventually

I have collar probes that go on with my tanis heater probe, which is the same type that goes on the factory CHT... There is a copper smash ring that pushes the collar further against the cylinder.. I found seemingly hotter temp readings after tightening the probes down. I think the person who installed my JPI 830 didn't use the 1/2" slotted socket, therefore didn't torque them down enough... After that, I also reinstalled fire sleeve and go them zip tied very tightly... Seems more accurate now.. especially on #3, where the factory CHT wasn't very tight. I've wrestled with if my choice to have the JPI 830 and keep redundant factory gauges was the best choice over the 900... Recently, I noticed high MAP on the ground, crossed referenced JPI and factory the same... it was nice to figure it wasn't just the sensor.. I found a broken vacuum flair fitting.

Here's the first gami if it's helpful. this was done a couple minutes before the mag check.

I had a chance to do a slow mag check after a slow gami test at 6500 WOT today... I pulled all the bottom plugs off and cleaned before flying... the left mag (right side of graph) was still pretty rough.. Not as rough as when an injector is clogged, but it the right mag was comparatively smooth. First gami spread was 0.7... I did another slow gami test well after the mag check and got 0.4

i need to show this video to my dad so he is reminded, once again, to stay off my dang flap!!!!

Some of you may recall my other thread about my mag issue. I have a 4345 on the left and a 4370 on the right. Timing is set to 20 currently. I will be sending the left mag out to get new retard breaker timing and relevant data plate applied when going back to 25 degree timing. To clarify, when the key was at the far left position (2 clicks left), the motor ran smooth on that mag alone. I went back to both for a moment, then switch the key to the middle position (one click left).. this is where the roughness set it. It is shown on the right side of the graph in the OP.

One thing I realized last night is the mag switch seems intuitively backward. The placard shows "R" on the left position and "L" on the right position... So, this means my OP is backward? The first EGT rise is actually operating the Right mag??..

Thank you for reminding me. I'll try to get up later this week and do proper tests. Usually my Gami spread is about 0.7 gph btw, which is about what this flight logged.

On the ground, I lean until it stumbles when giving more throttle. This kelley "OH" mag has about 20 hours on it. the mag check was done at peak. (#1&2 peak, 3&4 are about 30dF LOP)

The left mag was smooth and seemed that egt went up and stayed there. The right mag was rough and egt went higher, but yea, I switch to both because it was running so rough.

I was coming back from Nashville and did a mag check on the way and found that operation on the left mag was smooth, but rough on the right mag. in the image, the left rise is the left mag operating smoothly... notice #1 drop on the right mag is not as high... and the others rise much more... RPM mag drop on the right mag is currently max RPM limit on ground run up.. Any suggestions?

Yea, there is an optional SI that set it to 20 degrees... and as I understand it, data plates were automatically changed to this on overhauled engines some time ago... In spite of the data plate, I found evidence in the logs that the previous owner had set timing to 25 but didn't stamp the data plate. this explains the performance difference I had experienced when the new mags were installed according to the data plate. I was referred to a mag shop in TX and I talked with them... they will open up on my 4345, inspect, and reset retard timing and put a new data plate on it for $75... So, I'll be doing that in a couple months at annual.

sometimes, if there is no traffic, I'll do a power off down wind landing, which often results in being high and fast if you're not used to doing down wind landings... It helps you practice getting it slowed and down to make the field, as an emergency 180 may dictate landing down wind... you should probably try a full flap, full slip a few times to see what's possible. I can't speak for long bodies, but the F does this easily.. I've heard you don't want to do that in a long body or the tail will start to go blind..

According to this article, Delta is the only airline opposing the bill. It's also interesting how they structured the board so as to monopolize decisions. This is disgusting. http://www.newsmax.com/t/newsmax/article/713965

ok, thanks!

So 4345 and 4347 are the identical mags, but the retard breaker is adjusted differently from the shop? An A&P can change the retard breaker timing?

This past Fall, I had done my 500 hour slick mag overhaul. The left mag that was on it previously was the 4347 which had a 25 lag on the retard breaker, but champion and Lycoming both insisted that I needed the 4345, which has a lag of 15. The data plate on my IO-360-A1A says 20 degree timing, but I want to go back to the original 25 degree timing. I don't fly in extreme cold and I have found that my CHTs are just never high enough anyway. (cruise in low 200s) I'm also confused why they insisted that I use that mag, which would mean starting fire would be 5 degrees before TDC? I thought it should be 0 degrees?? They said that the 4347 with 25 retard lag could cause kick back and that their recommendation would be safer... Have I incorrectly understood how breaker lag is measured? My question is, if I move the timing back to 25 BTDC, do I need to replace this relatively new mag with the 4347 with the 25 breaker lag?

I have two extra 20420 and two extra 2983. Im not sure if either of these would work

thank you.. i'll ping John..

I'm looking to speak with someone who has experience fitting an OEM 201 J cowl on an F model. Or, fitting an OEM 201 J cowl on a C model. Anyone out there?

Mine worked out to about $130/hr (wet) this year at 75hours. The problem is that this doesn't include all the upgrades and other things I haven't accounted for. Haha.