Browncbr1

Nice. Now, were you doing the landing light cover too as part of the kit?

Glad you put it behind you. I did a similar thing a while back. I landed the plane a few feet off the ground and came down pretty hard. It shook me, so the very next day I did 3 landings and all were well. I learned my lesson on trying to touch the mains as the wing stops flying. Our money's don't like that! Glad you're back on the horse !

I have the same setup on my F. After investigating, the longer pointed spinner used with the top prop doesn't work. It looks like the 201 spinner, but if this cowl ends up anything like the swta cowl, then the spinner back plate is too close to the engine to allow enough clearance for the new cowl. This is why I didn't get the swta cowl in the past, as a 201 spinner is over $1800 for a used one! When I was talking to hartzell, the said the top prop spinner has little or no trade in value. I think it would end up being a really expensive cone-head Halloween costume accessory.

Tape one or two of these to the back of the ipad http://www.ebay.com/itm/100x40x20mm-High-Quality-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-For-Electronics-Computer-Electric-Eq-/161355824865?hash=item25918e7ee1 Use one of these kinds of tape: Copper tape http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Roll-Single-Conductive-COPPER-FOIL-TAPE-5MM-X-30M-Electronic-Tool-/230985190703?hash=item35c7ca4d2f Solder tape http://www.ebay.com/itm/5MM-x-33M-100-Feet-High-Temperature-Heat-Resistant-SMT-Solder-Insulation-Tape-/251365295758?hash=item3a868a068e tapes available in different widths... these are narrow to fit between heat sink fins.. If you want to get real fancy, you can tape one of these to the heat sink http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-2-Pin-40mm-Computer-Cooler-Small-Cooling-Fan-PC-Computer-F-Heat-Sink-Black-/391212953610?hash=item5b161bf00a Alternatively, buy one of these and modify it to hold the ipad.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-USB-Notebook-Laptop-Cooling-Pad-Heatsink-3-Fan-for-Computer-PC-with-LED-/400833437836?hash=item5d5388e08c

You can buy cheap aluminum heat sinks from places like radio shack that you can actually tape them to the back of the iPad with that Amber colored heat resistant tape.

That is a great way to practice engine out forced landings. Keeps you sharp on knowing how your plane glides through turns to the LZ. I make a point to do forced landings quite often by pulling the power at random points on downwind.

I think if you are going 80, then your flaps are working for your required glide slope profile and no need to slip... If you need a steeper profile, fly it, and if air speed increases to 90 power off, then use a little slip to maintain glide slope and speed... Keep the nose down! Sometimes I slip to generate more parasitic drag just to slow down before entering pattern, not necessarily just for losing altitude. Never had a problem with tail controllability, but i don't use slip unless I can't maintain approach speed within 10-15 mph with just flaps

Fascist neighbors!! Let the wife have the house, keep the plane!!!

The back of iPads are just big aluminum heat sinks. If you cover it up, it will overheat. It needs to be mounted so that most of the aluminum has good ventilation. If it's on your lap or the seat next to you, then the heat sink isn't breathing much.

After watching mike Busch webinars , he said 1/10 HP is about the correct FF for takeoff. 200hp = 20gph. And he said egt should be somewhere between 1200 and 1300. Other than that comment, he said egt value doesn't matter much.

thanks for the feedback We are about 1000msl here, but DA has been around 3000 lately...

i pulled data from my edm... one thing i noticed is that full rich, full power, I'm just getting 16.5FF, but I haven't set the K factor yet. I read the programming manual and it says to check the number on the transducer... Even though this is the case, I may be a bit on the low side of FF because my EGTs are getting into the mid 1300's on some occasions... I noted they should be between 1200-1300... and these have been really hot days, which I would think would reduce EGTs as there is more fuel per parts oxygen... Normally, all EGTs are around 1300 on take off, but saw a few take offs with higher EGT... Perhaps I didn't push the mixture as far in as it could have gone because I saw on those slightly higher EGT takeoffs, the FF was recorded as 16.3 ... Do you guys agree that my FF may need to be cranked up a little bit?

I know I had asked before, but do you think you will be making the cowl work with non-201 spinners? Really, that's the only reason I don't already have the swta cowl. The cost of new spinner and backplate, plus removing the prop and doing another dynamic balance. Not to mention new motor mounts, as I understand that is advisable when setting up a new cowl. It all added up to too much.

Would there be a way to avoid pulling the prop ?? or would there be no way to avoid that labor and re-balancing?

The one on the tail is 1/4" -28

If that's the case, you've got to come up with natural carbon finish!

Will be nice to get better induction without the ram air system. Changing a spinner could make it not workable for me though.

Do you have an ADF? When I bought my plane, it had the ADF antenna flapping and hitting the antenna, so I pulled all the ADF stuff out..

I saw this motor for sale on lasar's listings.. Lycoming Engine, IO 360-A1A, serial L1102-51A, 200 HP TSMOH 389.2, Jan 29, 2015 annual. Very good condition no damage history. $10,000. Also, full set of 201 seats, fully adjustable seats with pump up lumbar and headrests. $7,500.00 Tom Kobe 863-227-5339

The front aluminum bell housing that holds the end of the bendix broke off on mine... I just bought a new one for $380 from spruce, but I saw that I could have ordered a new one from skytec and sent mine in as a core for credit making the net difference $255 for a new starter... I sent them photos of mine and they never said anything about warranty.. . they just said send it in as a core, and it was new in 2008... I think you could do the same, no?

yikes... so, does this cowl mod retain the use of that rubber bellows? Sure would be nice to save the cost of replacing that part if one were to buy the cowl..

me too.. you mean the bellows behind the door, right? I haven't used my ram air yet just because the rubber boot looks so old, tired, and brittle... Where can these be bought, and how much?

thanks guys... i've familiarized myself and will try to report back my gami spread soon

do you have a link to the mike busch videos? I couldn't find them on youtube... I refreshed myself on all the busch articles and am now clear that i need to find my gami spread.. and keep an just keep my eye on CHT

Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to reread the Busch articles on avweb. It's been too long. It seems that I recall my FF difference being quite large.