Browncbr1

yea, .07 felt ok, but .04 was a noticeable improvement in cruise comfort.. without a doubt. Once it read .04, he stopped.. he didn't try to improve it further because he said it is diminishing return on time... He said he could probably get it down to .03 or .02, but it would take another hour of hassle... we had already run it 4 or 5 times and been fiddling for about 2 hours.. next time i'll insist to keep going..

I agree, I told her it's 90-93 decibels in cruise and it's probably ok for a short time, but long flights are not good for you... I think I'll lay down the law.. yea, hearing loss sucks.. I can't hear very well out of my left ear from shooting... I also wonder if ANR headsets actually just give a false sense of protection..

rear facing car seats work in our F... one in back with wife, other one in front with seat on aft notch... once the motor starts, they fall asleep.. my wife doesn't care for ANR headsets or ear plugs.. she says it's not very loud... but, I do cruise at 2250-2300 rpm.. They hold their ears during take off though..

I got mine balanced last year.. It was at .07 or so if memory serves... they got it to .04... I noticed that the plane was just generally more comfortable in cruise.. next time I do it, I'll insist to get it down to .02 I paid $250.. even at .04, well worth it..

You probably already did, but did you check battery voltage? Maybe your generator/alternator isn't charging or belt is loose??

If one were able to buy a non waas 430 on the cheap, could it be installed with the waas approved antenna and coax? I have no need for vertical guidance GPS approaches, as I would be ok for using VLOC to the ground and I would have a kx155 with GS for #2 The reason why I'm asking is because it would be better to have a very easy slide-in upgrade path if I should plunge for an ifd440 down the road.

Did they put a new faceplate on there? The lettering on yours looks really good.

Yea, I decided to do the alternator conversion after a few times my GPS shut down on final for lack of voltage. So, when we took the bottom cowl off, the generator just pretty much fell off. One bolt was holding it in and it was hand tight. We were sure to use thick gauge safety wire on the plane power kit.

When I bought my plane, I noticed one of the nuts holding the vacuum pump was loosening. So, I got my a&p to put those washers that bend up and have a hole for safety wire in addition to the star washer. They seem to work well. https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/safetywirekits1.php?clickkey=200082

I was going to do that with my panel once some of the final adjustments are made...I was going to laser cut veneer and laser etch all placards directly on to it, then laminate it to the aluminum... I was also going to do this for interior panel accents with laser etched insignia and other details... after much thought, I think I've decided against it in favor of just painting... I've got bigger fish to fry for now haha

I know of a good cowl nearby for cheap, but I haven't bought it because I learned of all the firewall modifications that would be needed. My local fairy doesn't have experience with this particular project either, so thought I would pass. Maybe someone will give up their ARI or SWTA cowl to me if they buy Sabermachs new cowl. I prefer less fabrication from scrap materials .. I dunno

Hi Brian, at the risk of being further ridiculed for my lack of properly quantifying flying speeds, I'd suggest you're out of trim. I've done that a few times following a long straight in approach. It also requires more muscle holding the yoke back which kind of makes it difficult. Try to trim with power off next time. Next time I'm flying with someone, I'll get them to take a video so I can see my ASI later. It sounds like I don't know my numbers correctly because I routinely land within the first 1000ft and make the first turn off. I must slow down pretty quickly just before flare, because I'm rarely under 80 on final unless I'm going to a shorter field. I think I might be looking more at where the arc is rather than the number. It's one reason why I bet it would take a while to get used to flying behind a glass panel with tape style ASI.

robert, do you really like your dynon D1? Have you ever seen false indications in different phases like slowing down / pitching up? Also, has it ever lost GPS signal?

I'm not sure if they changed for some years, but mine says 78mph for 40 Deg bank with gear out and flaps at 15deg. That's one reason why I normally fly the entire pattern at 90mph and slow to 80-85 on final... I don't see why this is so controversial. Earlier when I said sometimes I'll fly 100 over the numbers, I failed to mention I'm still nearly at pattern altitude. I wouldn't dare be on short final that fast. i also re-read my post talking about stall speed in high bank.. I didn't mean to say 1.3x high bank stall, which mine is 78 dirty. I guess I should never talk about speed over the numbers because I honestly never look after I'm a couple hundred feet before the threshold. I stabilize my final 80-85 before that point. From there I fly on feel and sense angle of attack and energy... I couldn't tell definitively what my IAS when my wheels touch or in the flare or over the numbers. You can easily feel if it's not ready to flare. Anyway, sorry if my comments raised eyebrows. I guess I just wanted to caution against getting low, slow, in the seasonal conditions, and different terrain.

Going into 2000, let alone grass, I'm with you. I'd be full flap, 70mph or so. I'm not afraid of my plane, but I do respect what can happen if things or condition don't go to plan. All I'm trying to say is that I hope folks fly according to context. If you're landing on 2000ft, go slow. If you're on a 2mile controlled field, going that slow when there is no reason to at 5 o'clock when commercial jets are lined up and everyone is waiting on you to land is not good for GA.

Tip stall is a soaring term. It's when you are above stall speed in level flight, but your below stall speed at a relevant angle of bank. Thus, your plane tips over into a spin or spiral. (Stall speed increases with angle of bank.)

Sometimes I fly 100mph over the numbers because I need to land 1.5 miles down the runway so I don't have to taxi for 10 minutes. Whatever i hope we don't read about you augering you and your pax in one day on base or coming up short when your only motor cuts out. Contrary to what some on this site preach, flying a mooney is not an exact science... I'm only trying to suggest folks don't fly too slow until short final. As far as I know, flying 10-15mph faster in the pattern won't kill anyone. Think about it There is plenty of time to slow down before you're on the ground I recommend folks pull out your books and find your gross stall speed at 40 degree bank angle, it will surprise you. You should be 1.3x that until final, minimum in my opinion. Your airspeed indicator also is probably off 2-3mph +/-, as called out in the POH. And add wind gust difference to that. One time, halfway down final, I encountered 20mph windsheer. If I had been flying like some of you suggest, it could have been a bad day. Just the other day, on a turbulent downwind, I lost 15mph instantly just before turning base. Stay safe, you don't need the stall horn blaring and remember you need energy to arrest your descent before flare. If the stall horn is on, you better put your ass on the ground before you land 3 feet in the air or worse. My uncles old parter put the mains through the wing of their C401 when he had the stall horn on just before touchdown and a gust cause him to balloon 10 feet because of his high angle of attack, then came back down hard, instead of going around .. In my opinion, if youre listening more to your ASI than all the other things the plane and conditions are telling you, sooner or later that ASI will get someone killed. MHO

I fly an F and this suits me. I fly into runways between 3500 and 9000ft with unforgiving terrain all around. I do not want to come up short, low and slow ... There simply is no reaso to fly so slow and behind the power curve. Have you ever done a go around at 70mph gear out and full flaps? Yes, slow down to 1.2-1.3 for short grass strips, but sooner or later flying that slow in the pattern will bite you when you are hit with a down wind gust and full gross as you turn base. Be safe, there is no reason to fly that slow. 80-85 over the numbers means touching the wheels around 70. (take off flaps). A little slower full flaps. (F model, so take into account for slower flying models) But remember our wings quit flying abruptly. I fear that flying too slow is what got our late Canadian friend and his recovering son. I recall this is what also got the meridian at OSH last year. Guys, there is no reason to fly so slow as long as you don't let your wheels touch at over 75mph. (F). Just my humble opinion on how to keep yourself and pax safe.

I'm a CB, what can I say. I even start annuals on the last week of the month, so I can get an extra month out of the cost.

My thinking is that the internal timing on mag 2 is retarded... On the right bank, the fuel shoots directly on to the bottom plugs (fine wires) and on the left bank, the fuel shoots to the opposite side of the cylinder.. with massive plugs on top.. I think there may just be some slight internal mag timing difference... and probably the different plugs on top and bottom doesn't help the way things look. Either way, I'm going to reset timing to 25 degrees and have the left mag inspected during the process.

I'm not sure if maybe the color is off on your screen. cylinders always peak in the same order. 4, 3, 2, 1. the rear two cylinders peak nearly together and the front two peak nearly together. #2 has never peaked first. FF at each peak always varies with altitude (WOT) .. usually somewhere around 8gph or slightly less. BTW, someone asked about my wire harness.. It is a new harness i bought when the kelly "overhauled" mags were installed..

Thank you,... yea, Mike had mentioned internal timing has been known to drift within 25 hours of a kelly mag.. I'm thinking that the graph shows that too..

#2 is much higher on the right side of the graph, but #4 is also... Actually, the only one that is not higher on the left mag is #1. I did swap the two plugs on top, but I didn't fly and do another LOP mag check because it was pretty rough air.. One thing I forgot to mention is that I have fine wires on the bottoms of all jugs.. massives on top.. all tempest with low hours. Maybe this might be causing part of the issue shown on the graph

I verified the left mag is driving the top plugs on the left bank (#2/#4) ... I pulled the top plugs off and they looked ok. resistance was just under 1400ohms.. I guess the only thing to do now is pull the left mag and check internal timing and points while the retard breaker is reset to 25 degrees... probably won't happen for a couple of months at annual.. i'm guessing a retard internal timing would result in higher egt..

Thank you for your help!. I will check the leads and plugs on #2 and come back with findings..