Browncbr1

great point!

Thank you... I'll get his feedback too before spending money...

Thank you for your helpful advice Mike.. Yes, I just want to be safe and prepared well enough to breakout no lower than about 2000 agl... And even this might be too bold... I don't plan on flying IMC without a backup AI, that is for sure.. I do have the electric TC, which is nice.. I will have my auto pilot setup soon too.. IFR GPS will have to wait a while Regarding my training, my CFII is one of the best and was with me for many hours in my plane already. Yes, the written seems to be where to start.. I don't want to change the subject, but your comment about swapping injectors around might be worth exploring. I may be able to just swap the front two for the respective back two. Perhaps I'll try that and see if the spread can be narrower than 0.8. Thank you for the suggestion!

Thank you all for the very helpful advice. Indeed, analysis paralysis. Hank, I have the DG with heading bug in. It was freshly overhauled and failed within one hour so it was sent back into the shop for warranty and just went back into the plane. I have the brittain accuflite and alt hold. They are freshly overhauled and ready to install. Just haven't actually installed them yet. I had planned on trying to get them in and working well soon. PC works good currently. I have a garmin aera510, iPad mini with stratux/fltplan go, and jpi830. It seems like I can get a king 208 for $350-400, so I'll do that and go with the kx170b I already have. I told myself I wouldn't put in a Mac 1700 because my future upgrade path way down the road should be GPS/VOR/com. I have planned a spot in my panel for an electric backup attitude indicator, but I know this isn't required for training. I think I should talk to my avionics guy about a ps6000b audio panel. It sounds like I need to fly some hands off. I know at cruise speeds it wants to bank to the right, but the PC system trim takes care of that when turned on. Slower speeds seem pretty stable, but I should really let go of the yoke for a while and see. Marauder, you make some good points about this being the plane for me. The only time I've ever questioned that is when I keep having to spend tons of money. I'm already way upside down and still many things to be done. Yes, if I had to do it all over again, I would have spent $10-20k more upfront to find a plane with everything already done. But that's the past. I'm pretty sure I'm committed to this one. I'm going to need to reseal the right tank within the next year or two due to aft root seep causing cabin smell... and I want to add Gamijectors next annual (June)...$$$$$

I can't seem to get a 430 installed for $5k, let alone a waas. I had thought about a 300xl... But, it seems useless spending money on instrument GPS unless you're willing to spend 10-15k

I have an electric compass also. I've never paid much attention to the wet compass. Maybe I should, but the correction card is from 1973!! Yikes!

I have less than 100hours and want to start instrument lessons in my 67F. It is equipped with a kx155 with GS and an old kx170b with a cdi that is old and not very accurate. King dme and stand alone marker beacon (no audio panel). The brittain alt hold and accuflite were overhauled, but not installed yet. I only have the one vacuum horizon gyro. I've kept thinking that I really need to do some things before starting lessons, so I learn well on my panel, but I keep having difficulty deciding what to do and when to stop spending money. So, I figured I would give myself a $5k budget. I know some will say save for an aspen or GTN... I could see myself someday dropping the big bucks for some of that stuff, but for now, I want to get a decent safe instrument platform. All airports I care to fly to have ILS or VOR approaches. I don't know if I really need an ifr GPS and the monthly chart subscription that comes with it. Can anyone help me out from experience?

I'm using slick mags, not bendix. 4370 and 4347. (25 degree lag)

Thank you!

I've been search how to undo an sb that was performed. Can't seem to find a clear description of what is needed. Anyone have experience doing this?

I looked at the data plate, and sure enough it says 20 degrees. I live in TN, so not too concerned with extreme cold flying. I spoke to my A&p and he agrees that it should be 25 like some people here. What is involved with getting this done legally?

Just called tanis. They said the cht rings that fit on their probes will usually read 20-30degrees cooler than actual cht probes.

My jpi cht leads are rings that are held on by the tanis heater probes. Do you guys have this kind of cht lead? I know some have the ones that go on the spark plug, but unsure if maybe this is causing lower cht readings?

I found a very old thread about the change in timing a number of years ago. Two of you posted quite a lot in that thread. It explains why there is 25 degrees stamped on the flywheel, but just a permanent marker approximately where 20degrees is.

A friend has a timing cone and we will check the mags again. He said he recalls that the data plate calls for 20 BTDC. Does that sound right for a io360-A1A? Newly overhauled slick mags with new tempest massive plugs and new harness.

The chts all read correctly at ambient air temp. I thought maybe my MAP is not correct and I am actually running easier than I should be. I set MAP according to the instructions in the jpi handbook, and it reads a bit different from the original gauge. Rpm is higher on the jpi too. Gami spread is .9 and #1&2 peak last. If I run #1&2 at peak at those power settings, jpi shows 7.8gph. I haven't fine tuned K factor yet though.

I've never really been able to get my CHTs very hot. I have the original cowl with a top prop on my 67 F. On climb, I can peak CHT right at about 300. In cruise with cowl flaps closed, running at about 65% power by book, I'm always running about 255-285 CHT... Yesterday, I flew for an hour at 7500ft and back at 8500ft... 2550rpm, peak-25LOP, ~21"map. It wasn't wide open throttle, but I know everyone says fly them WOT... Either my JPI830 isn't calibrated properly, or I have unusually effective cooling. Any advice? thanks!

The top prop has torsional vibration restrictions. You can't run it between 2350-2500rpm when over 24" MAP. Below 24", there is no restriction, but it does run smoother at 2500rpm. Mine is balanced to 0.04 and seems ok. I noticed it was smoother when I recently installed new mags too.

Hey David, are you using the carbon spinner that you were talking about making? - Craig

I am just getting back from China and saw a cool STOL prop jet that looked like it could go into deep rural China. The wing was super fat. Never seen even anything like it in the states, so thought I would share.

Have you tested the relay? I don't have electric gear (because of these kinds of potential problems), but I am pretty sure there should be a relay switch somewhere. I know someone that had relay switches go bad for his flaps too.

When you get it back together, I'd like to suggest removing the injectors from the fuel lines and running your boost pump so each line fills up a solo cup. Do this while cycling the fuel selector back and forth. Just to make sure anything that might be in there has a better chance of purging.

make sure you taxi around while holding the brakes to break them in or you will be in or a surprise on your first landing...

I found this on Hillary's server!

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=f95_1422455171 Easy to understand, right?