Cody Stallings Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I'm a propeller guy, not a power plant guy. So I need some advice My company has a 67F, an it has started to leave a little film of oil on top of the starter,oil sump, an the servo. Was doing a dynamic balance on it this week an after shutting it down on the second run, there was smoke venting out of the front cowl opening, so I started investigating. The moist spot where the most oil is accumulated is between #2 cyld.. I have checked the tq on the cylinder flange bolts, all seems well. Went as far as using Eddy Current looking for cracks in the area. The oil consumption has been about the same 5hr=1qt. The mechanic says all airplane engines leak oil. He has many yrs of dealing with round engines. So it looks like I'm gonna be dealing with this solo. Your thoughts would be great....thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkingnorth Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Through stud? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 If you can figure out how to make it stop let me know. I have maintained and operated 4 different Lycoming IO-360 engines for over 4000 hours all together. I'm not saying that it is impossible to make this engine leak free, but I've never seen it. If it is a through stud, you can clean your engine periodically, or spend 5 to 10 K to have the engine R&R ed, disassembled and reassembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantom Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 If a Lycoming isn't spewing a bit of oil, ther's none in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N601RX Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I assume you looked the drain tubes over good. The early through through studs to not use any seals. They rely an an interference fit to stop the oil. If it is the through studs you can get a couple of oversized studs and install them in the field. If I remember correctly the .001 can be installed with out reaming while the .003 requires reaming 1st. If they are loose be careful, the case halves will fret. If this has happened bad enough you can close up the main bearing clearance when retorquing the cylinders. There is a service bulleting that deals with the and stopping leaks around the through studs. When I overhauled my engine I had oring pockets machined into the case half to prevent oil from leaking out past the through bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Stallings Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 I was thinking through bolt or ,maybe a cylinder base Oring. Do they have a problem leaking too? The leak is not a huge deal, but I can't handle when something on a plane is not just right. I am not going to break the engine down to fix this. It was just done 370 hrs ago. Sense the oil consumption is unchanged, I may be pouting about something that's not that big of a deal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottfromiowa Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 There is NOTHING better than two southern gentlemen discussing the particulars of their engines. I fly into my sisters "Sharp County Regional CVK" and always think about how beautiful it is. I bet "Mountain View" is not to shabby either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantom Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 , I may be pouting about something that's not that big of a deal. That happens a lot around here ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Stallings Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Mt. View is only 25 miles southwest of CVK. An it's a lot more fun to get into on a windy day..... Stop in sometime for the bluegrass music, shopping an trout fishing. Stop in the propshop an say hey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Just think about it as automatic external corrosion protection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Stallings Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Well that's what's strange. There is not much on the belly. I hope I can get it figured out pretty soon. Speaking of the corrosion protection.... Before we were graced with this awesome flying machine with the backwards tail, I would have to fly a cessna product out to do jobs. That leaked oil so bad cause some one forgot the silk thread at the back of the case. Now when your going into an Agstrip to work on a Air tractor, no big deal. But I wanted to run an hide when I would say pull up at million air or Wilson at memphis intl, to work on a KingAir or something along those lines,an it would dump oil all over the ramp. It was so bad, you could tell what direction the plane was parked. So glad we have the F now. Hope it don't get that bad..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1964-M20E Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 It appears that I have a cylinder base O-ring oil leak. I noticed more oil leaking from the engine lately and after doing some cleaning I was able to see the following. I plan on removing the cylinder and putting a new O-ring on it. We torqued the bolts at annual a month ago but no luck.     Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The oil looks better then the blue stuff.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1964-M20E Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The blue is just blue chalk line chalk mixed with lacquer thinner to a paint like consistency and painted on. Clean the area well, paint the blue on, run the engine for a few minutes and the oil leak shows itself. It is leaking enough to warrant doing something relatively quickly. The blue washes off very easily with any engine cleaning solvent you want to use. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_elliott Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I was thinking through bolt or ,maybe a cylinder base Oring. Do they have a problem leaking too? The leak is not a huge deal, but I can't handle when something on a plane is not just right. I am not going to break the engine down to fix this. It was just done 370 hrs ago. Sense the oil consumption is unchanged, I may be pouting about something that's not that big of a deal. Cody, Have the engine completely cleaned, then get some Magnaflux developer or in a pinch, use some spray athletes foot powder and spray it all over the suspected area. Then do a 5 minute hard run of the engine. Your source will be revealed. Make sure you include the oil return lines. #2 on a IO360 likes to rub against some Scat tubing and a small pin hole can develop. Good luck, but it shouldn't be too hard to find. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 It appears that I have a cylinder base O-ring oil leak. I noticed more oil leaking from the engine lately and after doing some cleaning I was able to see the following. I plan on removing the cylinder and putting a new O-ring on it. We torqued the bolts at annual a month ago but no luck. I began noticing leaks here last year. My engine has around 900 hours. How many on your's? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Cody, Have the engine completely cleaned, then get some Magnaflux developer or in a pinch, use some spray athletes foot powder and spray it all over the suspected area. Then do a 5 minute hard run of the engine. Your source will be revealed. Make sure you include the oil return lines. #2 on a IO360 likes to rub against some Scat tubing and a small pin hole can develop. Good luck, but it shouldn't be too hard to find. The oil returns line on my plane were replaced at the annual this year for exactly this reason. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaV8or Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 It appears that I have a cylinder base O-ring oil leak. I noticed more oil leaking from the engine lately and after doing some cleaning I was able to see the following. I plan on removing the cylinder and putting a new O-ring on it. We torqued the bolts at annual a month ago but no luck.  I have a cylinder base leak too, but not as bad as yours. Mine just seems to mist out under pressure when the engine is running. It doesn't drip, or leave puddles. I'm just going to live with mine as long as I can. I would love to see pictures of yours when it's apart. I'd like to have a better understanding of how this seal fails. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaV8or Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I have maintained and operated 4 different Lycoming IO-360 engines for over 4000 hours all together. I'm not saying that it is impossible to make this engine leak free, but I've never seen it. Â I kid you not, when I bought my plane, the engine didn't leak a drop. It was dry everywhere. It had about 400 hours on the engine at that time I think. I was very pleased to have a non leaking airplane engine because I knew that was rare. Â Well, those new owner good times only lasted maybe 20-30 hours. I have been chasing leaks ever since. My rule now is, if the oil never makes it to the hangar floor, I'm OK with it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N601RX Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 It may be leaking around the through bolt instead of the cylinder oring. If the case hasn't been modified to use an oring around the throughbolt the only seal is the interference fit between the bolt and case. I think I still have the oversized throughbolts that we removed from my engine when we overhauled it. I had my case converted to use hollow dowels and orings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Stallings Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 It turned out being the through bolt. Had lots of damage from yrs of driving them in an out. My A&P reamed it an installed the oversized. It's dry as can be........ For now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1964-M20E Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 It turned out being the through bolt. Had lots of damage from yrs of driving them in an out. My A&P reamed it an installed the oversized. It's dry as can be........ For now! Well it looks like I need to do the same. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Stallings Posted August 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 You have a place that you trust that can put the oversized stud in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1964-M20E Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Working with my MX we just tried pulling the cylinder and changing the o-ring but it appears not to have helped much.  I would do it with my MX unless you know if something that is a got ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1964-M20E Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Where did you get the reamer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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