aerobat95 Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 Well I got my bird back from annual. It was a pretty thorough one this year and had some good work done. Had the mags inspected, replaced my induction boot, how the cowl flap system reworked (there was a ton of play), my prop was dressed and painted, reworked the cowling screws....now they are all the same, stall indicator was fixed.....tons of corrosion that was causing it not to work properly, they also said my prop bolts were safety wired with safety wire that was too small, and my amp meter is inop. So question......where can I have that looked at/fixed? Is that strip gauge all one piece?
N601RX Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 The current shunt for the ampmeter has 2 inline fuses that are a small value. Check them. They are round glass ones.
jetdriven Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 Safety wiring the prop with .032 wire is a nightmare. Painting a bridge or getting the Steelers to the Superbowl would be easier than trying to do it with .040 Regarding the ammeter those gauges are separable and it could also be the shunt. eBay is your friend, friend.
aerobat95 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Posted November 13, 2012 Yea they said that a lot of people do it with the .032 cause its easier....but still its not correct. So they put the .040 wire on.
aerobat95 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Posted November 13, 2012 The A&P said they have good continuity up to the gauge.....so if that's the case wouldn't it lead more to a gauge problem?
jetdriven Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 Yea they said that a lot of people do it with the .032 cause its easier....but still its not correct. So they put the .040 wire on. "I had a friend who safety'd the prop with .032 the put the spinner on and whistled dixie"
FBCK Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 A little off topic, but what gauge of safety wire is used for the oil filter, I'm planning on doing my next oil change myself and I,m collecting the proper tools for the job.
Hank Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 I use 0.032" on the filter, but my A&P uses 0.040" for everything not requiring larger. YMMV. There's no force exerted on the filter, you just want it to not vibrate loose. Mine has never turned according to my calibrated eyeball.
aerobat95 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Posted November 13, 2012 I think I use the .032 for the oil filter.
FloridaMan Posted November 13, 2012 Report Posted November 13, 2012 I also use 0.032 for the filter. If you want to piss someone who is not familiar with safety wire and does not have the tools to cut it, 0.041 will certainly get the job done.
tomn Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 Check with Ralph below. He just O/H my oil temp gauge on my 66 E and it is working great. He may be able to do the amp meter. Ralph Posey Aircraft Instrument Support Services, Inc. 900 E. Pecan St., Suite 300-231 Pflugerville, Texas 78660 Phone and FAX 512-252-3031
DonMuncy Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 Before you pull the ammeter, make sure to check the fuses for the shunt. I'm not sure about the earlier models, but on my K, they are on the passenger side a few inches back from the front of the panel under a couple of conical shaped plastic screw in covers.
aerobat95 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Posted November 14, 2012 Check with Ralph below. He just O/H my oil temp gauge on my 66 E and it is working great. He may be able to do the amp meter. Ralph Posey Aircraft Instrument Support Services, Inc. 900 E. Pecan St., Suite 300-231 Pflugerville, Texas 78660 Phone and FAX 512-252-3031 Thanks for the info. What did he charge for the O/H? Also my A&P said that continuity was good up to the gauge......if that's the case then the fuses should be good correct?
DonMuncy Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 No, I don't think that is the case. The main power runs to the ammeter itself, but the shunt allows it to read the current. I'm sure electrical gurus can explain it a lot better. But the bottom line is that continuity to the gauge doesn't mean the shunt fuses are good.
aerobat95 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Posted November 14, 2012 Ok.....over the weekend I'll have to check it out. What is the easiest way to get at the fuses?
DonMuncy Posted November 14, 2012 Report Posted November 14, 2012 Again, if it is like mine, lay face up with your head under the copilot side panel and look straight up. If my memory is good, just about centered (left to right) and 6 to 8 inches behind the panel, and just barely above the level of the bottom on the panel, you will see a box a few inches square with two protursions sticking straight down. They are about 3/4 inchs or so apart. Kind of a knurled black plastic. About 1/2 inch in diameter and protruding down about 1/2 inch. They are cone shaped but flattened on the end, with the small flattened ends down. If you unscrew these conical covers, the fuses will be visible, but will stay in place. You will have to grab them with your fingers and pull them out. They are round and only about 1/4 inch in diameter and 1/4 inch long, with 2 wire pins stuck up into the holders. You will need to use an Ohmeter to check to see if they are blown. This is from memory, and it has been about a year, but should be close enough to get you to recognize them. If you buy these from most aviation sources, they cost about $15 each. If you need them, check back with me and I will see if I can dig out my paperwork where I bought some for about $7 each plus shipping. (If you only buy 2, it comes out about the same, but if you buy extras, it helps). I think these are the same as the fuse for the flap indicator light.
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