71E: Rudder pedal stuck

varlajo · October 21

Experienced a "new one" on landing recently. Aligned to land with substantial crosswind, and noticed somewhat insufficient rudder authority. The right rudder pedal would travel approx. 1/3-1/2 of its normal range and then meet significant resistance. The left pedal would travel all the way normally. Attempted to troubleshoot in the air by applying full rudder deflection multiple times, and at some point broke through the mechanical resistance on the right. The rudder worked appropriately during landing and rollout.

GFC500, including YD and ESP, was disengaged for the entirety of that flight.

Curious what would have caused the mechanical resistance to the rudder pedal. No foreign objects or debris found in the foot well area.

**EricJ** · October 21

You should investigate that, in case it's something that could happen again only worse, or in case whatever was interfering was also important and is now damaged. In any case, it's unusual enough to be worth sorting out.

A good first place to look is in the nose gear wheel well, so if anything is/was interfering with the control horn and the rod that drives it. You can work backward from there, and remove a few of the forward belly panels to expose the rest of the control rods if necessary.

**Ragsf15e** · October 21

Last time someone had a similar issue it turned out to be carpet in the copilot footwell.

Has any maintenance been done since last flights?

varlajo · October 21

4 minutes ago, Ragsf15e said:

Last time someone had a similar issue it turned out to be carpet in the copilot footwell.

Has any maintenance been done since last flights?

Thank you! Yes, work was done, but only engine-related. Carpet appears to be attached properly.

haymak3r · October 21

I've had this happen, and it was the plastic interior side kick panel. The attachment point by the pedals is a piece of metal flashing? or something that uses adel clamps on one of the bars of the roll cage. This was bend out(closer to the right passenger pedal). So when the kick panel was screwed back on, it was very close to the pedal. I did not notice this. I noticed the problem taxiing, as it was at a pretty close to the end of travel of the pedal before it would "catch" the kick panel.

varlajo · October 21

22 minutes ago, haymak3r said:

I've had this happen, and it was the plastic interior side kick panel. The attachment point by the pedals is a piece of metal flashing? or something that uses adel clamps on one of the bars of the roll cage. This was bend out(closer to the right passenger pedal). So when the kick panel was screwed back on, it was very close to the pedal. I did not notice this. I noticed the problem taxiing, as it was at a pretty close to the end of travel of the pedal before it would "catch" the kick panel.

Thank you! I'll check again.

**Ragsf15e** · October 21

1 hour ago, varlajo said:

Thank you! Yes, work was done, but only engine-related. Carpet appears to be attached properly.

Anything “engine related” with the electric boost pump? There are a couple of lower panels that have control rods going through them. Definitely check the carpet type stuff first, but if that’s not it, I’d definitely find out exactly which panels came off…

**PT20J** · October 21

Bes sure to check both pilot and copilot pedals.

varlajo · October 21

1 minute ago, Ragsf15e said:

Anything “engine related” with the electric boost pump? There are a couple of lower panels that have control rods going through them. Definitely check the carpet type stuff first, but if that’s not it, I’d definitely find out exactly which panels came off…

"Just" a prop governor adjustment (but what a PITA!!), oil pressure sender reseal, and an oil change.

Kelpro999 · October 21

I would suggest getting the nose wheel on a turntable ( two steel plates with grease or bead blasting media between them works) and attempt to recreate the symptoms with an assistant observer.

varlajo · October 21

3 minutes ago, Kelpro999 said:

I would suggest getting the nose wheel on a turntable ( two steel plates with grease or bead blasting media between them works) and attempt to recreate the symptoms with an assistant observer.

I like this

varlajo · October 22

8 hours ago, EricJ said:

A good first place to look is in the nose gear wheel well, so if anything is/was interfering with the control horn and the rod that drives it. You can work backward from there, and remove a few of the forward belly panels to expose the rest of the control rods if necessary.

Don't see anything out of ordinary