TheAv8r Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 We're installing a new tailpipe and a new Mooney clamp on my bird and I have been hunting all over trying to find the correct torque values. My A&P warned me that if it's too tight, the metal won't be able to expand as it heats and flex enough and could break, but it also doesn't need to be too loose otherwise it could leak or the tailpipe bang into the airframe. Which means we need to find the right torque to use vs. guessing. But it's not in the Mooney Service Manual, Lycoming Manual, or any other manual I can find, so asking the Mooney Braintrust here . There's a ball & socket joint with AN bolts and springs where it connects to the other parts of the exhaust, what torque do you apply to the bolts to give the springs enough springiness but not too much? Tailpipe is 630056-501 (OG) replaced with PMA A630119-501 The clamp hangar is P/N 630041-501 and it connects to the rubber shown in the diagram below with an AN3 bolt that we're not sure of what the torque needs to be either. Quote
A64Pilot Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 No experience with a Mooney, but on other aircraft there is no torque, you tighten until it’s not rattle loose but loose enough until it can easily move, on those aircraft it snugs up right after starting from heat. If nothing else this bumps the thread to the top. Quote
TheAv8r Posted June 17, 2024 Author Report Posted June 17, 2024 9 minutes ago, A64Pilot said: No experience with a Mooney, but on other aircraft there is no torque, you tighten until it’s not rattle loose but loose enough until it can easily move, on those aircraft it snugs up right after starting from heat. If nothing else this bumps the thread to the top. Yeah, that's about where we have it and the same way we approached it... we figured as long as it can move on all planes in the ball joint it's good. The clamp's been a bit harder. Quote
A64Pilot Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 I’ve seen some put anti-seize on it, I never did but don’t see how it would hurt. Quote
Fly Boomer Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 1 hour ago, TheAv8r said: so asking the Mooney Braintrust here Not familiar with your ball clamp, but we used some of this on slip joints recently. I'll know how well it works in about a year. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/category/dam-exhaust-lube/ Quote
PT20J Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 The ball joints are supposed to be fastened with AN3-16 bolts, washers, castle nuts, cotter pins and coil springs per the IPC. The springs hold the tension correctly. There is no torque since the bolt length is fixed and the nut is retained by the cotter pin. If the joint is too loose, it's because the springs have lost tension and should be replaced. The torque on the hanger isn't critical but if you really want to torque the bolts, just use the standard torque for each bolt size. 2 Quote
47U Posted June 17, 2024 Report Posted June 17, 2024 4 hours ago, TheAv8r said: There's a ball & socket joint with AN bolts and springs where it connects to the other parts of the exhaust, what torque do you apply to the bolts to give the springs enough springiness but not too much? I plagiarized this pic from PowerFlow. Therefore the specified dimension might not be the correct for your ball joint, but you can get the idea. Don’t smoke the AN3 bolts down so far as to fully compress the springs, just enough that’s it’s secure, but still can adjust under vibration. (Like Skip said.) 1 Quote
TheAv8r Posted June 18, 2024 Author Report Posted June 18, 2024 Thanks gents, we did indeed use AN3-16 bolts + hardware and it was tightened until the hole in the thread lined up with the castle nut to put the cotter pin in, so it looks like everything is lined up like it's supposed to be. There is give in the springs so it can move. We will move forward as-is then! 2 Quote
PT20J Posted June 18, 2024 Report Posted June 18, 2024 18 hours ago, 47U said: I plagiarized this pic from PowerFlow. Therefore the specified dimension might not be the correct for your ball joint, but you can get the idea. Don’t smoke the AN3 bolts down so far as to fully compress the springs, just enough that’s it’s secure, but still can adjust under vibration. (Like Skip said.) The cotter pin is way too long. Quote
EricJ Posted June 18, 2024 Report Posted June 18, 2024 17 minutes ago, PT20J said: The cotter pin is way too long. Definitely not trimmed per AC 43.13. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted June 19, 2024 Report Posted June 19, 2024 Not an airworthiness issue, but it will try to let the blood out of the next guy who works on the engine. 1 Quote
TheAv8r Posted June 20, 2024 Author Report Posted June 20, 2024 On 6/19/2024 at 9:12 AM, N201MKTurbo said: Not an airworthiness issue, but it will try to let the blood out of the next guy who works on the engine. After rigging the cowl flaps and putting the airbox bolts on it, I can assure you, trimmed cotter pins or not, blood will be had! 1 1 Quote
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