Is a fuel selector valve rebuildable?

ArrowBerry · January 14

Hey everyone, question regarding the options to repair/replace a leaking fuel selector valve. 1967 M20E.

From my research today it sounds like the first step is differentiating whether it's coming from the sump with the ring which you pull to drain, or the actual left/right/off position handle. We think it's coming from the actual selector handle and not the sump, and I've been reading that these are not overhaul-able? Whereas the sump drain is?

Can anyone confirm or give some guidance on this? Does LASAR have a kit with the O rings to replace on the selector itself? Possibly a fix is to have our mechanic take it apart, clean, and reassemble with new O rings? Are new ones available, and from where?

**hammdo** · January 14

Maxwell’s rebuilt mine in my 66 C… May want to contact them to see if they have the kit…

-Don

ArrowBerry · January 14

Thanks for your input.

I've also got a picture to share. Its wet in the little cup where the selector sits.

**hammdo** · January 14

Yep seal. Mind did that. I added 3 in 1 oil there and worked it back and forth a bit ( until I got it to Maxwells for overhaul).

-Don

ArrowBerry · January 14

What did that run you for cost to send it in?

Did you disassemble it yourself to send it in? What's the best way to access it? Do you gotta remove belly panels and crawl underneath?

Edited January 14 by ArrowBerry

**hammdo** · January 14

I actually went to Maxwells to have them do it. 5 hrs w RnR and I was out with < $600. You could remove it and send it to Maxwells for overhaul. They do that quite often. Maxwells is only a 50 minute flight from my hanger @ KHQZ so, it was easier to take it to them…

-Don

**hammdo** · January 15

I did the electric fuel pump but, this might give you an idea where the selector is:

Skyland · January 15

This may help. It's for the Anderson Brass fuel selector but the process may be similar with different valves.

**Ragsf15e** · January 15

This thread has a picture of a kit from lasar that i used on a 68F and it has a diagram that might help.

**hammdo** · January 15

On my fuel selector, Maxwells replaced the pull ring for a Curtis…

**hammdo** · January 15

Here is a better pic:

**EricJ** · January 15

2 hours ago, hammdo said:

Here is a better pic:

Man, that's gonna cost ya, like, three knots...

**DCarlton** · January 15

4 hours ago, hammdo said:

On my fuel selector, Maxwells replaced the pull ring for a Curtis…

So you manually drain the sump from the outside? No pull ring inside? I worry about that pull to drain valve not seating every time I pull it. I guess it doesn't happen though or it would be a major issue.

**hammdo** · January 15

Yes manually drain outside. No pull ring at all!

22 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Man, that's gonna cost ya, like, three knots...

At least 3 but I make it up by waxing the plane ;o)

-Don

ArrowBerry · January 16

Thanks everyone for the pictures and posts of interest to read. I've been educating myself on this today, it's amazing how much we take for granted when systems work! Nevertheless, I never learn so much about something as I do when its broken lol

Anyways, we took the panel off the bottom today. It looks like there is some seepage and blue dye at the top where it would go through the floor, likely how we noticed it. And also a small amount where the RH wing fuel line comes into the selector. There was a very old sticker on it which identified it as an A&E selector, but no readable part or serial number.

I've reached out to LASAR about this seal kit, whether it's the correct one, and the costs associated with rebuilding it here with the kit or just sending it in and having them make it like new! https://lasar.com/seal-kits/complete-seal-kit-drawing-for-he769-fuel-selectorgascolator-he-fuel-selector-seal-kit-complete?rq=fuel selector seal

**N201MKTurbo** · January 16

When you remove it have two cap plugs available. Remove the pointer, the ring and the output tube. With the selector in the off position. Next, unscrew it from the floor. Them unscrew one feed line B nut while pushing the tube against the fitting. When you have the nut slid back, quickly pull the tube away fron the selector, push the selector aside and push the cap plug into the tube to stop the fuel flow, then screw the B nut onto the cap plug. Repeat with the other tube. Just remember that when you remove the second tube, the selector will de unsupported. It is one of those three handed jobs.

ArrowBerry · January 16

6 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

When you remove it have two cap plugs available. Remove the pointer, the ring and the output tube. With the selector in the off position. Next, unscrew it from the floor. Them unscrew one feed line B nut while pushing the tube against the fitting. When you have the nut slid back, quickly pull the tube away fron the selector, push the selector aside and push the cap plug into the tube to stop the fuel flow, then screw the B nut onto the cap plug. Repeat with the other tube. Just remember that when you remove the second tube, the selector will de unsupported. It is one of those three handed jobs.

Okay I understand the output tube, going to the fuel pump. Which parts are the pointer and the ring?

Without a cap plug, would another option be to drain the fuel into a clean pail from each tank as you remove the feed line for that side?

**N201MKTurbo** · January 16

42 minutes ago, ArrowBerry said:

Okay I understand the output tube, going to the fuel pump. Which parts are the pointer and the ring?

Without a cap plug, would another option be to drain the fuel into a clean pail from each tank as you remove the feed line for that side?

Depends on how much fuel is in the tank. You could fill a lot of pails.

the pointer is the thing you switch tanks with. The ring is the ring you pull to drain the selector. There is a set screw on the side of the pointer. You have to unbend the ring.

**Pinecone** · January 16

15 hours ago, hammdo said:

Yes manually drain outside. No pull ring at all!

Except you have to set the fuel selector, get out, drain, go back, reset the selector, get out, drain.

With the GATS holder, you get in, drain, switch, drain, get out and retrieve the bottle and check for water.

CaptainRamius · February 3

Correct Lasar link for HE rebuild kit. Other one reported as bad link

https://lasar.com/seal-kits/maintenance-seal-kit-drawing-for-he769-fuel-selectorgascolator-he-fuel-selector-seal-kit-maintenance?rq=fuel selector

On 1/15/2024 at 11:00 PM, ArrowBerry said:

Thanks everyone for the pictures and posts of interest to read. I've been educating myself on this today, it's amazing how much we take for granted when systems work! Nevertheless, I never learn so much about something as I do when its broken lol

Anyways, we took the panel off the bottom today. It looks like there is some seepage and blue dye at the top where it would go through the floor, likely how we noticed it. And also a small amount where the RH wing fuel line comes into the selector. There was a very old sticker on it which identified it as an A&E selector, but no readable part or serial number.

I've reached out to LASAR about this seal kit, whether it's the correct one, and the costs associated with rebuilding it here with the kit or just sending it in and having them make it like new! https://lasar.com/seal-kits/complete-seal-kit-drawing-for-he769-fuel-selectorgascolator-he-fuel-selector-seal-kit-complete?rq=fuel selector seal

https://lasar.com/seal-kits/maintenance-seal-kit-drawing-for-he769-fuel-selectorgascolator-he-fuel-selector-seal-kit-maintenance?rq=fuel selector

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Is a fuel selector valve rebuildable?

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