Advice, Interior Refurbishment

[rwabdu]

Seems like this topic has about a million threads on it, and I have read them all but still haven't quite figured out what to do...

What's the best way to revitalize my m20C interior plastics? Looking to do the headliner, window plastic and side panels (not the seats for now) and what does it realistically cost if I don't do it myself? I was hoping to find something around 3-4 AMU that I could purchase and have a mechanic install quickly and easily during annual this winter in 1-2 weeks while replacing the old insulation (SB 208). I have looked at airtex, Jaeger, Areo comfort, plane plastics. So far seems like Areo comfort is the only option that might fit my goals but guessing the airplane would be down for a while waiting for the work to be done. Can't tell if they would do my headliner and window plastics and I'm unsure how the shipping large sections of cracked brittle plastic to TX would work. Anyone's experience to set me on the right track with some cost estimates or before and after pictures would be really appreciated. Maybe this is unrealistic and I shouldn’t mess with a good flying airplane but I do need to replace the insulation anyways.

[DCarlton]

I've been working on my 67 off an on for about a year.  Not an expert; just a guy that's researched it and done it.  Yes there are lots of recommendations / threads.  I used JB weld plastic bonder to glue the cracks and in some cases used thin AL sheet metal behind the cracks or to bridge gaps.  At times I used bondo in gaps with lots of sanding (my rear window trim was a patched up mess).  A heat gun can be carefully used to flatten warped areas between clamped pieces of metal.  You can respray with SEM Color Coat; clean first with a plastic cleaner; SEM has recommendations.  Nothing is quick or easy.  Even new plastic panels require careful trimming and fitting and more trimming and fitting.  Here's the usual list of sources I posted a few days ago.  Lots of opinions on the best glue to use.  Lots on articles on the internet too.  

https://www.airtexinteriors.com

https://scs-interiors.com

https://vantageassoc.com/plane-plastics.html

https://www.semproducts.com/products/brand/color-coat

https://www.jbweld.com/product/plastic-bonder-syringe

[PT20J]

If you can do the work yourself, there are options depending on the condition of the existing plastic parts. 

If you don’t have the skills, time, or inclination to do it yourself, it is best to take it to a shop that specializes in this work. There are lots of shops around the country that do aircraft interiors. Two that specialize in Mooneys are Jaeger and Aero Comfort. I would call them and discuss your needs with them. Like everything else in life: Quality, Cost, Speed - pick two. You can’t get all three.

Skip

 

[BillyT0020]

You can fix your plastics and paint them yourself for relatively cheap with nice results. Finding new ones (Plane Plastics, Jaeger etc) can get pretty pricey. Luckily its fiberglass and easily repairable and with new paint can come out looking really nice. If you wanted to wrap in ultra leather you can have them taken to any interior shop, just make sure the material meets the 12 second burn certificate requirements. I would stay away from the band aid fixes you will see online (aluminum tape etc) and fix it the right way with fiberglass chop strand/poly resin, then use body filler on the front side and smooth them out for a strong unnoticeable repair that will last in the Texas heat. 

For the headliner I retrofitted a newer model’s Headliner to fit my 67. Heres a few pics of the fiberglass repairs on the back side of the headliner, what it looks like painted compared to the original. I maybe have $500 into repairing and repainting the entire interior within a few weeks time. 

The panels in my plane were custom made out of aluminum and required a lot of body work to get them straight since the welder was kinda sloppy, which took the longest to get straight, but you wouldnt run into that.

 

[Utah20Gflyer]

Your plastic interior parts are ABS plastic so ABS pipe glue like you find at home Depot used in conjunction with fiberglass tape works well to affect repairs.  

 I had some badly stained carpets that I would say were 2/10.  I bought a carpet dye kit off Amazon and dyed my carpets after a very thorough cleaning.  I think I brought them up to maybe a 6/10.  Not perfect but a huge improvement, and the cost was only 15 or 20 dollars.  

[rwabdu]

Thanks so much for the advice, seems like it is doable yourself! beautiful pictures @Carlton. I might just go the do-it my-self route. 

 

[PT20J]

If you want to do it yourself, there are LOTs of threads on MS with various techniques. 

[DCarlton]

16 hours ago, Utah20Gflyer said:

Your plastic interior parts are ABS plastic so ABS pipe glue like you find at home Depot used in conjunction with fiberglass tape works well to affect repairs.  

 I had some badly stained carpets that I would say were 2/10.  I bought a carpet dye kit off Amazon and dyed my carpets after a very thorough cleaning.  I think I brought them up to maybe a 6/10.  Not perfect but a huge improvement, and the cost was only 15 or 20 dollars.  

Agree many use ABS glue but the plastic bonder I used bonded really well.  What I liked was the working time and the fact that it can be easily sanded after it hardens.  Sanding to finish makes for a great repair.  So far it hasn't been brittle.  I was even able to glue some nut plates to the back of the plastic side panels.  The stuff stuck!  I used mesh tape in some areas and thin metal backing in others.  

https://www.mcmaster.com/nut-plates/nut-type~adhesive-mount/

[PT20J]

4 minutes ago, DCarlton said:

Agree many use ABS glue but the plastic bonder I used bonded really well.  What I liked was the working time and the fact that it can be easily sanded after it hardens.  Sanding to finish makes for a great repair.  So far it hasn't been brittle.  I was even able to glue some nut plates to the back of the plastic side panels.  The stuff stuck!  I used mesh tape in some areas and thin metal backing in others.  

https://www.mcmaster.com/nut-plates/nut-type~adhesive-mount/

I found ABS cement and fiberglass cloth work well for reinforcements. Agree that the two-part plastic epoxy products are better if you need to build up an area or fill in holes or a low spot. The nut plates are interesting. I just used Tinnermans taped with aluminum tape to the back side since I was putting it back together with sheet metal screws.

SEM Color Coat Phantom White is a good match for painting the plastic panels after repair.

[DCarlton]

2 hours ago, PT20J said:

I found ABS cement and fiberglass cloth work well for reinforcements. Agree that the two-part plastic epoxy products are better if you need to build up an area or fill in holes or a low spot. The nut plates are interesting. I just used Tinnermans taped with aluminum tape to the back side since I was putting it back together with sheet metal screws.

SEM Color Coat Phantom White is a good match for painting the plastic panels after repair.

Had a couple of areas where Tinnermans wouldn't work well and I wanted to get away from pointy screws.  Stumbled over the adhesive nut plates; pretty cool.  The JB Weld plastic bonder is actually a two part urethane not an epoxy by definition; I'm hoping it won't get brittle over time.  It was just convenient.  I tried ABS cement and finally aborted.  Phantom White is what I used too.  

[Hank]

1 hour ago, DCarlton said:

Phantom White is what I used too.  

My interior is SEM Almond. Buy at least two cans; I bought a box of 6 cans at bulk price, and split it with a friend. 

[A64Pilot]

As a CAR 3 airplane we don’t have to meet flammability requirements, but it’s not a bad idea, pretty sure older factory Mooney materials wouldn’t.

If you don’t use materials that meet flammability requirements you are supposed to placard the aircraft “No Smoking”

My experience with upholstery is automotive people do as good or better work with usually better materials at lower cost than aircraft interior shops.

However you need to be weight conscious, it’s not hard to add significant weight with good high quality thick leather and memory foam, that foam in particular can be surprisingly heavy.

But if your down South leather can be hot and sweaty, fabric may be a better choice

[aviatoreb]

SLS in Duluth did the most amazing interior work for me at prices near the best available and quality exceeded by none.  They also do a lot of boat work.  So its not a small business.  And they do some OEM work for Cirrus also in Duluth.

I had my leather seat backs perforated which helps tremendously with heat.

[gmonnig]

I have been doing the same thing. Krylon Fusion spray paint works well on the plastic. I had fiberglass and epoxy sitting around so I reinforced the old plastic. I even had straight up holes in trim panels. I used aluminum duct tape to hold a shape, then laid up fiberglass. JB Weld has a two part filler for plastic (the black stuff in the pics) that flows good enough to get into smaller cracks. Carpets, I went with the SCS. They have a kit that fits really good. I bought an extra couple yards of carpet for additional work (side panels). My wife and I ordered Airtex interior to finish the seats. Should look like a new plane when I'm don't with it!