Dumb Question Time re Walk Around and Pitot Tube?

[GeneralT001]

In my POH on page 4-3 it says:

1.     Left Wing Leading Edge – Check

Pitot Tube – UNOBSTRUCTED, Heat Element Operative.

Stall Switch Vane – UNOBSTRUCTED.

Fuel Tank – CHECK QUANTITY, Secure Cap.

 

How are you supposed to determine that the Pitot Tube Element is Operative during the walk around if its not ON?

[carusoam]

Turn it on, let it warm, turn it off, walk out and touch it….

 

Same with stall vane… they can operate nicely, but not hav electricity flow through them…. So turn it on, lift the vane , hear the noise, turn it back off…

Don’t be afraid to re-write your whole check lists… many of them are missing modern details and updated systems…

There may be some examples in the download section…

-a-

[GeneralT001]

20 minutes ago, carusoam said:

Turn it on, let it warm, turn it off, walk out and touch it….

 

Same with stall vane… they can operate nicely, but not hav electricity flow through them…. So turn it on, lift the vane , hear the noise, turn it back off…

Don’t be afraid to re-write your whole check lists… many of them are missing modern details and updated systems…

There may be some examples in the download section…

-a-

Thanks

[carusoam]

One of the helpful things to consider…

The pilot’s window, when left open… you can reach the Master switch….

This gives you the opportunity to turn things on and off from outside the plane….

-a-

[Greg Ellis]

And it warms up rather quickly.  Like @carusoam said, you can reach in the pilot side little window and reach the pitot heat switch.  I turn it on, by the time I walk over to the pitot tube it is hot then walk back and turn it off.  Matter of seconds to heat up.  Don't leave it on and do other things or it will burn out and I hear they are very expensive to replace.

[Yetti]

firefighter trick.   Use the back of your hand to test door knobs.   If you use the front and it it hot it will cause the muscles to contract around the object.

[PeteMc]

The unobstructed part is just that there's nothing that's blown on there or obvious insect activity.  Probably more for when there hasn't been a Pitot Cover put on.  So after breakfast of lunch on the return flight...

And I totally agree with @carusoam on the Pilot Window.   Been doing that for years and is a great way to turn everything off after you've turn on ALL the lights and Pitot Heat to check them.  Granted much less battery drain now with all LEDs.

Additional note not for the pre-flight, but for the final walk-away at the end of the day and I guess really for just before the push-back, I never turn Off the Beacon.  This way you will know if you left the Master ON.

[Skates97]

1 hour ago, PeteMc said:

Additional note not for the pre-flight, but for the final walk-away at the end of the day and I guess really for just before the push-back, I never turn Off the Beacon.  This way you will know if you left the Master ON.

The flight school where I did my initial PPL had this same policy. I do the same with my plane.

[DXB]

12 hours ago, GeneralT001 said:

In my POH on page 4-3 it says:

1.     Left Wing Leading Edge – Check

Pitot Tube – UNOBSTRUCTED, Heat Element Operative.

Stall Switch Vane – UNOBSTRUCTED.

Fuel Tank – CHECK QUANTITY, Secure Cap.

 

How are you supposed to determine that the Pitot Tube Element is Operative during the walk around if its not ON?

Best way is leave open pilot window open, then during walk around briefly flip master on, and turn on pitot heat through the window, flip stall tab to make it moves freely and make sure horn sounds, touch pitot tube momentarily to make sure getting warm, then immediately turn everything off.  

[jaylw314]

I just turn on the pitot heat first after the master switch comes on and turn the heat off after about 20 seconds, then I run the standby vacuum for about 20 seconds.  Then I do a quick walkaround checking only the lights, pitot tube and stall switch (or get my wife to do it), then come back in to turn off the master switch.  I know my plane's pitot tube becomes and stays noticeably warm to touch after just 20 seconds without burning anyone.  Then I do the rest of my walkaround.  The battery should have plenty of juice to do all this and then start the motor.

Cranking the engine actually takes very little charge (although a lot of current), and any charge you use doing your preflight you're going to immediately recharge after the motor starts, so there shouldn't be any worry about leaving the battery discharged for a long time.  If you have to worry about whether the motor will start after doing a leisurely preflight, that is a strong suggestion your battery needs immediate replacement...

Edited January 19, 2022 by jaylw314

[rbp]

2 hours ago, jaylw314 said:

run the standby vacuum

has anyone else besides me been warned against starting the standby vac because the stop/start cycle wears the mechanism?

 

[jaylw314]

9 minutes ago, rbp said:

has anyone else besides me been warned against starting the standby vac because the stop/start cycle wears the mechanism?

 

No, but I've been warned against NOT running the standby vac because the bearings and contacts can degrade with disuse.  Go figure  

 

[N201MKTurbo]

26 minutes ago, rbp said:

has anyone else besides me been warned against starting the standby vac because the stop/start cycle wears the mechanism?

 

I had a standby vacuum system and on a trip from Oregon, the pump failed. It was VFR, but I miss my autopilot. So I fired up the standby. It ran for 10 min and popped its breaker. I waited till the gyro spun down and then reset the breaker. It ran for 20 minutes and then popped the breaker. I waited again and reset the breaker and it ran the rest of the way home. About 5 hours. That would suck if you were in the soup! I would suggest running it an hour or more every year just to keep it loosened up. The vacuum pump is good for 500 hours or more, so you will never wear it out and I bet that motor will last at least that long. I wouldn't be afraid to run it.

[carusoam]

+1 for using all things that have a motor on them…. If it’s mechanical, don’t let it sit….

Use the standby vac often…. If it doesn’t get exercise, it will find a way to stick….

As for wear… haven’t seen any reported around here in years…. These things are coming up for sale pretty often lately…

The vac pump itself is an ordinary vac pump… nothing specific for its role….

Hmmmmmmm…. If the back-up vac system breaks due to too much testing….   Perfect logic for having to go all electric  

PP thoughts only, based on fuzzy memories…

Best regards,

-a-

[201Steve]

On 1/19/2022 at 9:21 AM, Yetti said:

firefighter trick.   Use the back of your hand to test door knobs.   If you use the front and it it hot it will cause the muscles to contract around the object.

Interesting, I always thought you used the back of your hand so that your hand was still usable if it burned. Or at least that’s what I recall from firefighters visiting my elementary school. Lol. I guess there’s more than one reason. 

[carusoam]

6 hours ago, 201Steve said:

Interesting, I always thought you used the back of your hand so that your hand was still usable if it burned. Or at least that’s what I recall from firefighters visiting my elementary school. Lol. I guess there’s more than one reason. 

It is a really important test for the ‘is that a live wire?’ test… is that conduit conducting electricity?

Anything that can stir your central nervous system to respond… may get a response you may not do by thinking about it first….  

 

PP thoughts only… not an electrician…

Best regards,

-a-