Rear Window Install?

[Trenta]

Howdy MSrs!

I just had a mishap with my rear window. Today I lost my balance trying to get my cover on my plane and my knee went through the window. I have ordered a new one and have my annual coming up in a couple weeks so I will be able to get it done then. 
 

How was this for those who have replaced them? I seem to remember they were held in with clips? Any big pointers to remember when installing them?

-Trenta

[Greg Ellis]

It is not a terribly difficult job to do.  The older models like yours have clips that hold the window in place.  It is important that you put the clips back in the same location or they won’t fit right.  I marked mine with a sharpie to keep them in order.  Also, it is important to use plenty of sealant.  The sealant will fill the voids between the window and the airframe.  You want to make sure you have excess that expresses out everywhere so you know the voids are filled or water will get down where it shouldn’t be.  After the sealant cures you can use a piece of the old plexiglass window, sharpened to cut the excess without scratching the new window.  Denatured alcohol works well to clean off the old sealant prior to placing the new.

[Greg Ellis]

As for the sealant, I used Flamemaster CS 3330B-2.  I used a full tube for each window to make sure all voids were filled.

[jetdriven]

8 minutes ago, Greg Ellis said:

As for the sealant, I used Flamemaster CS 3330B-2.  I used a full tube for each window to make sure all voids were filled.

That’s removable access door sealant.  The better stuff is PR-1425B windshield and canopy sealant.  The Flamemaster number for the equivalent is CS3247B

Edited August 26, 2021 by jetdriven

[carusoam]

Get started today…. You could be flying in not too long…

Lots of time spent R&Ring plastic panels, and cleaning off old sealant…

Ordering the new window… you will need to know about what the old one was… original greenish tint or solar gray or extra dark….

 

Wow… we can probably write that up…. Acrylic Windows are not a structural surface…. Print up a placard… do not kneel here….  

Glad you didn’t fall through… or fall back… it’s a long way to the ground from there.

Best regards,

-a-

[Greg Ellis]

8 hours ago, jetdriven said:

That’s removable access door sealant.  The better stuff is PR-1425B windshield and canopy sealant.  The Flamemaster number for the equivalent is CS3247B

The Flamemaster was recommended to me by a very well known Mooney Service Center and at the time, 15 years ago, I followed their advice.  It seems to have held up very well.

[0TreeLemur]

How do I replace the side windows on my Mooney?   That's a Frequently Asked Question.  There is one correct answer.  It's been answered various ways many times over the history of MS, both correctly and incorrectly.

[MinneMooney]

I replaced all 4 side windows on my ‘65C during my annual last November. It was not difficult, however, it was helpful to have multiple people help during the install. On my plane, there were no clips(other than the tabs used to secure the interior panels). We had to drill holes for all the screws. I bought a 3/16” and a 1/4” acrylic bit from Aircraft Spruce and would highly recommend them. We used Chemseal CS3204 B2 in 3.5 oz tubes. I ordered 5 and my A&P only used 3. It was my A&P’s idea to use clecos to hold them in place while the sealant cured. It worked great. Also, don’t skimp on the masking tape and buy a bunch of the plastic razor blades and a couple holders to make the cleanup a snap.

[PT20J]

Does anyone know which models had screwed in windows and which used the retainers? It seems some early models had retainers and certainly the later models do. SB 208 refers to the retainer style as “flush mount”.

Skip

[Andy95W]

4 hours ago, PT20J said:

Does anyone know which models had screwed in windows and which used the retainers? It seems some early models had retainers and certainly the later models do. SB 208 refers to the retainer style as “flush mount”.

Skip

The old, rounded windows used the retaining clips, up until 1964.  1965 started the square windows, which were screwed in (like MinneMooney’s pictures, above).

SB 208 doesn’t apply to my 1964 for the insulation replacement.  Insulation replacement is for the later models only (but mine was changed to closed cell foam before I bought it- and I still did all the other inspections.)

[Guest]

21 hours ago, Trenta said:

Howdy MSrs!

I just had a mishap with my rear window. Today I lost my balance trying to get my cover on my plane and my knee went through the window. I have ordered a new one and have my annual coming up in a couple weeks so I will be able to get it done then. 
 

How was this for those who have replaced them? I seem to remember they were held in with clips? Any big pointers to remember when installing them?

-Trenta

You may be able to make a temporary repair using Acri-fix adhesive.

Clarence

[jetdriven]

4 hours ago, M20Doc said:

You may be able to make a temporary repair using Acri-fix adhesive.

Clarence

May be the same as window weld but that works too 

[apriav]

Use adhesive-backed felt for the install. Adhesive side to the aluminum.

It is easy to work with, allows the window to expand and contract, don't leak.

No mess and window manufacturers recommend it.

Spruce sells it, 1.5" X 1/16".

[Guest]

Mooney windows are bonded in place to keep water out.

Clarence

[cliffy]

On 8/29/2021 at 5:23 AM, M20Doc said:

Mooney windows are bonded in place to keep water out.

Clarence

That is where rusty steel tubes come from that kill Mooney airframes. This is one area that should be on every pre-buy check list but requires the interior removal to see it  Without checking you have a crap shoot  "Do you feel lucky? Well do ya' punk? "  (Dirty Harry)

Side windows can be replaced by the owner no A&P required for the sign off    Only the owner's sign off.