MinneMooney

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MinneMooney last won the day on February 4

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About MinneMooney

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/24/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KANE
  • Reg #
    N5901Q
  • Model
    1965 M20C

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  1. I ordered my Tailbeacon from Chase at Avionics Source (he’s a great guy to deal with) and received it about a week after the STC had been approved. I contacted one of the Uavionix Qualified installers listed at my home airport to install. Installation went quick and easy except we had to substitute a #6 screw for the top mounting screw as the #4 was stripped out. The A&P placed the ground wire under a mounting screw, but it works fine. (if the ground was good enough for the original incandescent nav light, shouldn’t it be fine for the Tailbeacon?) Unfortunately, that first Tailbeacon apparently had a defective barometric pressure sensor. Uavionix quickly shipped me a new Tailbeacon and the replacement works correctly. I made a short flight and got and printed my PAPR with no discrepancies. This couldn’t have been easier!
  2. Compliance with this Service Bulletin is a required part of the Continued Airworthiness instructions (every 12 calendar months).
  3. And it can’t be reconfigured without the WiFi passcode. Pretty easy to find when you’d be broadcasting your location. Hopefully word gets out that these are worthless unless purchased from a reputable source. However, the A&P that installed mine mentioned that he had heard of SkyBeacons having been stolen already. also, a screwdriver won’t work to remove it (unless you use it to hack it off the tail)
  4. I ordered the Tailbeacon and will upgrade both of my wingtip nav lights to LED’s. That way the nav lights should outlast the aircraft. My aircraft already had a fairly recent Garmin GTX-327 installed when I bought it earlier this year, so I didn’t want to spend the $ to swap out the transponder. Plus, given the backlog at most every avionics shop, the Tailbeacon is a great alternative.
  5. I thought so. Doing owner assisted annual next month so I will add that to the todo list. Thanks Andy.
  6. Related question. On my 65C there is a sizable open space between the alternator and the starter. Should there be some baffle material there to restrict the flow of air into the space below the engine?
  7. Jesse, is this used IFD540 w/new Lynx still available?
  8. Flew my Mooney to St. Paul Downtown airport yesterday. The EAA had their B17 and B25 here for the weekend giving rides and ground tours. The terminal building was built by the WPA in the mid-1930’s and was used by Northwest Airlines. The large Quonset hangar behind the B25 was built in WWII and used to modify aircraft, including Doolittle’s B25’s. Lot’s of great history.
  9. Just delivered my Cessna 140a to its new owner this weekend. Minneapolis to Paris, TX. 10 hours with 3 stops for fuel over 2 days. Turned out to be a great trip!
  10. Right now, Chase at Avionics Source shows the IFD540 for $12995 and the NGT9000 for an additional $3000. Not sure if the remote NGT9000 is an option at that price but you may want to check with him.
  11. Just a guess, but are there are any engine or airframe components made of magnesium? If so, once ignited, very difficult to extinguish.
  12. Seeing this aircraft inverted and on fire, it is truly amazing that this hero was even able to get to the pilot to save him! Last summer we had a T28 crash land at ANE just short of runway 18. 2 people driving by witnessed the crash, stopped their vehicles, jumped a 7’ chain link fence and ran about 100 yards to pull that pilot (who was on fire) to safety and put out his burning flight suit. It renews your faith in humanity!
  13. Urea solid, yes, but a solution does have an ammonia odor, just take a look at any DEF msds.
  14. DEF is a solution of urea and water. It does have an ammonia odor.
  15. Once the blue dye has had a chance to penetrate into the coating, you will never be able to remove it with solvent unless you actually dissolve the coating. The best way to control how much coating you want to remove is to use rubbing compound. You can rub a bit, clean and inspect the area and repeat until all of the stain is gone or you notice the paint getting thin.