rbridges Posted November 13, 2017 Report Posted November 13, 2017 11 minutes ago, steingar said: Still, a 1 AMU squawk isn't so bad. Haha. It's a shame we're conditioned to think that way. Quote
cliffy Posted November 16, 2017 Report Posted November 16, 2017 If you are going to change the tire, when you get the nose wheel off the ground and before you remove it, check the free play left to right on the nose wheel steering. With good linkages there is very little free play left to right in the steering with the wheel in the air. You can look up into the wheel well and watch the linkage move if it is loose and worn. As mentioned, move the wheel fore and aft to check the bushing wear also. Good bushings mean very little fore and aft movement. Facing the tire looking from front to rear try to "lean" the tire left and right to check for any slop in the bearings. Just to cover all bases (not related to the shimmy), look real close at the point where the steering truss will come close to the support truss and check for any dents from overturning the nose steering with a tug and tow bar. I have seen several sitting on ramps with big dents there over the years. Basically no dents allowed (very small tolerances allowed for the dents). Take the time to lube the nose gear with the weight off of it now also. Good luck and I hope you solve your issues. 1 Quote
65MooneyPilot Posted December 23, 2017 Report Posted December 23, 2017 While you have it up, also check the vertical play of the nose gear truss. Mine was moving a quarter to a half inch of play. Should not have any. LASAR rebuilt it and I installed the steering horn STC and it is like a new plane. Quote
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