Window replacement

[capthaak]

I've been on the forum about a year and don't recall seeing this discussion, so have at it.

My mechanic told me today that we should be looking at new windows and windshield before we do paint and interior next winter. We're located in the Midwest, so hoping that someone has suggestions.

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[Bob_Belville]

There are several recent threads on MS. I replaced all my windows a few months ago and posted pics and info on what I learned.

 

[bradp]

Bob did you end up going with the .250 or the thinner .220 windshield?   Smoke Grey with the UV coat or with the tint alone?  

 

Not to thread hijack too much but relevant to what the OP had asked ...

I've convinced myself to replace the windshield before the plane goes in for paint in April.  I live about 25 min from LP aero's location, so if I do this in my hangar with the AP, I can run the old windshield down to them and they will trim the new one exactly.  

Also, someone had mentioned using Chief for LP products.  I got a quote from them yesterday that beats the socks off of GLAPs published unless there are deals to be had (SnF?).  

Given I have a more ambitious interior project planned, and that the J models don't require the use of screws through the windows or the fuselage exterior, I only have to worry about the presence of new paint and it getting messed up with the windshield replacement (please correct me if I'm wrong).  I will likely do the interior when it's warmer and after paint and don't expect to have any real chance of ruining new paint.  So, I'll have a grey windshield and green tint side windows for a while.  Eventually I think I'll do the pilot and co pilot window in grey and the rear pax windows in the much darker grey tint available from  GLAP.  

Anyone have recommendations for thickness for windshield and side windows on a J?  I'm not sure I want to add more weight for little benefit. Looks like capthaak also has a 201.  I spoke with Henry Weber folks and they indicated the .250 is not a big deal on an M20J but can be a real pain on short bodies with the replacement windshield.  That sound about right?  

 

Thanks 

 

Brad

 

[Bob_Belville]

I went with GLAP 3/16" SC Gray all around. On my old E the original back windows were 1/8", the w'shield, pilot, and door were 3/16".. (1/4" would have worked okay on the side windows but would have been pretty mean for the w'shield (I have the LASAR 201 STC) since the edge would have to be chamfered to fit the slot. As it was, we fit, marked, cut about 6 times installing the w'shield.

I upgraded the door with a vent door to match the pilot window. GLAP offers those pre-assembled which I went with.  

I found LP to be quite a bit higher than GLAP. Cee Baileys is quite a bit cheaper and caters to lots of older GA planes but is not tooled for J and newer Mooneys!

I would sure do the windows first if I were painting as well. Especially for my E which has a lot of screws going through paint. 

[Marauder]

22 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said:

I went with GLAP 3/16" SC Gray all around. On my old E the original back windows were 1/8", the w'shield, pilot, and door were 3/16".. (1/4" would have worked okay on the side windows but would have been pretty mean for the w'shield (I have the LASAR 201 STC) since the edge would have to be chamfered to fit the slot. As it was, we fit, marked, cut about 6 times installing the w'shield.

I upgraded the door with a vent door to match the pilot window. GLAP offers those pre-assembled which I went with.  

I found LP to be quite a bit higher than GLAP. Cee Baileys is quite a bit cheaper and caters to lots of older GA planes but is not tooled for J and newer Mooneys!

I would sure do the windows first if I were painting as well. Especially for my E which has a lot of screws going through paint. 

I wonder what thickness the SWTA 201 windshield mod uses? I have a lip on mine which makes me think it is thicker.

[Bob_Belville]

1 minute ago, Marauder said:

I wonder what thickness the SWTA 201 windshield mod uses? I have a lip on mine which makes me think it is thicker.

I don't know. Did Mooney go to 1/4" on later Js or newer,models? 

[N601RX]

9 minutes ago, Marauder said:

I wonder what thickness the SWTA 201 windshield mod uses? I have a lip on mine which makes me think it is thicker.

The last ones sold were .250. I assume they all were. 

[flyboy0681]

We had the windshield replaced at the last annual. Not a cheap job, but it came out great and is totally waterproof. I can finally see again.

Next on the wish list is the door window.

[carusoam]

Byron, gave an explanation of the effort he put in to adjust the edges of the thicker windshield.  See if you can find his writing on the subject.

Best regards,

-a-

[Bob_Belville]

2 hours ago, flyboy0681 said:

We had the windshield replaced at the last annual. Not a cheap job, but it came out great and is totally waterproof. I can finally see again.

Next on the wish list is the door window.

I did a lot of the work myself in my hanger. Lynn (my A&P) did the drilling, mixed and applied the 2 part adhesive. His time for the whole job was a few hours worked in while we were doing the annual. The door and side windows are legal owner maintenance. 

[NotarPilot]

7 hours ago, flyboy0681 said:

We had the windshield replaced at the last annual. Not a cheap job, but it came out great and is totally waterproof. I can finally see again.

Next on the wish list is the door window.

Just curious how many hours of labor the window replacement took.

[flyboy0681]

4 hours ago, NotarPilot said:

Just curious how many hours of labor the window replacement took.

Looking at the invoice it broke down as $620 for the windshield (including shipping) and 15 hours of labor at $70/hr. So all told, $1,670.

[Bob_Belville]

2 hours ago, flyboy0681 said:

Looking at the invoice it broke down as $620 for the windshield (including shipping) and 15 hours of labor at $70/hr. So all told, $1,670.

I paid $1788.55, inc frt, for 5 (GLAP) windows, all solar gray,  3/16" with vents installed in both pilot window and door. (The w'shield was $463 + frt.)

Add $82.94 for sealant.

The labor invoice was combined with several other repairs: 24.2 hours "repairs to elevator trim system including overhaul gear box, Disassemble and overhaul fuel selector valve. Strip, blast and repaint nose wheel. Install all 5 windows."

I'd guess the windows were about half those hours. (But I probably put in at least another 20 hours r/r seats, carpets, glare shield, interior panels, removing windows, cleaning old adhesive from frames, and assisting installing new windows.)  

[bradp]

I read Byron's earlier post. The skinny is that he needed to Dremmel / router 1/16th inch from the edge of the windshield that makes a seat in the frame in order for it to fit properly.   

 

Does the same thing need to be done for thicker than stock side windows for J and later models?  If so I may opt for the stock thickness and invest the extra money from the swear jar in some better ANR headsets.  

 

@jetdriven. Byron if you had to do it all over again would you go thicker windshield or stock?  Did you ever get around to the side windows?  

 

Thanks ,

Brad

[jetdriven]

i would do the windshield in the 1/4" all over again, but its a more for more proposition. The 1/4" GLAP solar gray UV control windsheild was 747$ shipped and I'd guess 500-600$ labor to install it. 350-400$ for the glass and 250$ in labor for the stock thickness, but I think it may be quieter and definitely is stronger when hitting a bird at 200 MPH.  I did not change the side windows, those were changed in 2003 by previous owners and couldnt justify doing them again.

Edited February 28, 2016 by jetdriven