'66 E Trim Control Wheel - Seized will not turn

[Cabo Lee]

Okay, I have not flown my M20E for several years, because I started a new business venture. I noticed the Trim Control Wheel is seized in place

and will hardly move. Any suggestions on getting it to work. I have been running up the engine, ground taxiing the plane, changing the oil, etc., but

never move the trim control, because I was not flying. I have an annual planned with a AP/IA that owns a C. However, I wanted to take care of as

many simple squawks as possible. Any suggestions?

[Hank]

Pull the belly panel off and inspect the jack screw. The grease on it has probably hardened. Clean it out and regrease. This is where I would start.

[Shadrach]

 

The jack screw is pretty well sealed. Though you may be ably to squirt some low viscosity lube through the gaps.  The only thing that is "easily" accessed with the belly removed is the indicator nut (the block shaped nut with a cable attached). If I were you, I would call your A&P/IA and ask him what he's comfortable reassembling for you. You can take apart anything you want, but your mechanic is going to be tasked with making sure it's reassembled properly and logging the work. Unless you know your mechanic really well, this is a case of better to ask permission than forgiveness. 

[Piloto]

There is another jack screw at the tail between the tail and the fuselage. Before flying the plane put it on jacks and check all the landing gear push pull rods by partially rotating them to make sure the rod ends are not frozen. A frozen rod could bend on the first gear retraction  Try WD-40 to loosen the mechanisms. I use it on frozen bolts/nuts on planes and boats and it works very well for this.

José

[Shadrach]

I prefer Kroil or Liquid wrench. They outperform WD40 and PB Blaster by a large margin...

[Hank]

Zep makes a great penetrating fluid. Smells like bananas. Not cheap, but it works durn well!

[SLEEA]

I have a 66 E model that had a bad friction prob and i will explain you how i changed it from a poor to perfect system:

1. Pull off belly pan  and check metal chain that connects trim wheel to sprocket.  The chain must have about 3/16" of flex and be well lubed.  If too loose the chain will fold and jam. If too tight it causes a lot of friction. Adjust chain length with the 2 adj. bolts/nuts in the cabin on the trim wheel base.

If trim wheel unit not sat. Remove trim tube to rear jack screw and try to turn trim tube by hand.  Turns easily if tail jack screw is ok.  Trim box should also turn easily.  Fyi, original grease in trim box will be hard as a rock and gears will be dry and perhaps worn.. Remove box, disassemble, clean and reassemble with moly fortified grease.

2.  Proceed to rear jack screw.  Inspect threads for wear, if acceptable grease with a moly fortified Aircraft grease.  Remove co pilot access cover and hand turn trim control tube.  Have a co conspiritor put positive and negative pressure on tail assy.  You will probably find the bearings inside the jack screw "box"(which holds the jack screw) bind up under pressure.      Remove jack screw assy. By removing the 2 long retaining bolts and detach jack screw from tail assy. 

There are 2 sealed bearings inside which have been dry for many years and are worn and flat sided.  They must be replaced.  The bearings are mounted on a bronze carrier shaft with an integral spacer between the 2 bearings.  This requires each bearing to be pulled away from the spacer for removal..  Approved bearings can be purchased for $40 ea. on Web or $80 from AC dealer.  

You will not believe how easily the trim system now works..

 

 

 

[carusoam]

Welcome aboard, Sleea.

Go ahead and introduce yourself.  Are you an engineer, mechanic or Mooniacal private pilot?

Best regards,

-a-