marky_24

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About marky_24

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/05/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
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  • Reg #
    N4328H
  • Model
    M20J
  1. It was right around freezing and My heater doesn't work very well on the ground and that picture wasn't very long after lift off.
  2. Thanks, they love it especially going up and down. Mom on the other hand gets sick after a few times
  3. I just had my girls up Christmas day
  4. Yep, I suspect that the mag hold down nuts got loosened to adjust the timing at the last annual in August and they didn't put new lock washers on.
  5. I went to go fly my 78 J today and noticed that there was a good bit on oil under the plane , looking in the oil fill door I couldn't see where the oil was coming from . So I removed the cowling and started cleaning up the oil. When I cleaned the oil off the mag I noticed it moving very easily . I Called my mechanic over to retime the mags , but they just wouldn't come into time. So we pulled the mags and sent them off for an overhaul . It was odd timing, pun intended, that the mag had come lose and both sides went bad all at once . I'm just glad it happened on the ground !
  6. On my 78 J there is only 3 position closed, in trail and fully open. Over center one direction is closed, just passed over center is in trail, about 1/3 open and then over center the other direction is fully open. When I picked mine up the mechanism was snagging the scat tube in fully closed position and it would pop back to intrail in the air and would not stay closed.
  7. What's in your panel? I use the Carenado M20J and it has a basic panel with a 530, that might be close enough to what you have. It's about 65-70% of what the real plane is like, but the pitch is very sensitive. But after lots of adjusting to the settings and after modifications to my CH yoke it's a lot better. https://davenunez.wordpress.com/2011/03/12/modding-the-ch-products-flight-yoke/ You can also edit the .CFG to change the HP for a C model and you can change the empty and gross weight to match yours. If you really want your panel you can spend some money on this program. http://www.fspanelstudio.com For the live ATC I use VATSIM, it's free. https://www.vatsim.net And for your Foreflight. http://www.flightsimgps.com
  8. Looks like the Western Sky Aviation Warbird Museum
  9. Hi Gabe, I have a J ,but I'm down in the good part of the state KSGU. If you ever make it down here to soak in some sun, I would be glad to take you up. As for N.A. vs turbo, I have never had to scrub a flight due to performance. Most runways around here are long. During the summer you just have to plan on being wheels up early in the morning. I have taken off at near gross with an 8000 da @5500', no problem. Just have a good plan for obstacle clearance.
  10. The flap indicator on my 78 J Decided to stop working. I was able to remove everything from the front with out having to take apart the center console. I started with removing the kick panel on the copilots side. Then I removed the 4 screws from the indicator panel. The glass is separate from the main part with the writing on it. If you put both indicators to the bottom, you can reach around the back with one hand and hold the indacator and use your other hand to slide the plastic up and tilt it sideways and pull it out then you can do the same for the main indicator being careful of the plastic indicators. In my case the plastic indicator was fine It just popped off the wire, more on that later. I used 5 minute 2 part epoxy to glue the indicator back on to the wire it rides up and down on. And then I put it all back together. After it was put back together I noticed It was showing takeoff flap when fully retracted. Doh! Crap I thought I did something wrong so i took it back apart, everything look fine. So I thought me and the hangar fairies would pull the belly panel below the flap motor and hope there was an adjustment. Low and behold there was! And it turned out that it was the cause of my woes from the beginning. The way the wire is held on to the flap actuator is a bit odd. There is a bolt through the actuator with a nut on the other side. Then a washer then a hole in the bolt that the wire is passed through. Then you LOOSEN the nut so it pushes against the washer and wire. Apparently it wasn't tight enough and when it cooled down this year it caused enough resistance in the cable to slowly push the wire farther back each time the flaps were raised until it was so far out of adjustment that when the flaps where lowered it pulled the wire out of the plastic indicator. So I squirted some cleaner up the cable and worked it back and forth a bunch then shot some lube up the cable worked it again, adjusted the cable till the indicator lined up and put it back together. And all is well with the Mooney!
  11. I Can't make the meet up,but maybe I'll see you at KSGU for the altitude chamber. I'm signed up for 1:15 on Saturday
  12. It's a little spendy, but then again it's aviation. https://www.jpinstruments.com/shop/jpi-usb-download-box/
  13. Count me in, only 45 min flight so how can I say no?
  14. Wouldn't it be easy enough to collect some oil out of the separator and send it in for analysis?
  15. Switch is installed, but the fit was very loose. I am thinking its more of a material problem, rather than a design. I will interested to hear how helitim's new ones fit. I think they plastic may have to much give in it, but I stuck a little duct tape in all the right places, and boom fits like a glove. Its a bit of work to get it looking good but over all I'M happy for with the results for $6.