LANCECASPER

I have the 550 and love it

I don't believe the Batteryminder has enough amperage to trip the relay through the GPU socket. Even if it did it's not going to charge both batteries, only the number 1.

Only if you hook up a splitter and have the Batteryminder take care of both of them at the same time. Otherwise you need a Batteryminder for each battery (waste of money). (this is the Batteryminder for 24 volt Concorde Batteries: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/batteryminder11-14352.php?clickkey=58037&PANEL=292Click%2BHere%2Bfor%2BSlick%2BStyle%252FabrA%2BHREF%253D) Take the extension (see below) and run it out your oxygen door with just enough to hook up to your battery tender (so that when you unplug, the little bit of cord will tuck in the O2 door and allow you to close it). Inside the avionics bay hook up the other end to the 210-AY splitter and then run your battery leads to the splitter. Clean up the cords and zip tie everything so it doesn't interfere with anything else going on back there. For these extra Batteryminder cords RVupgrades.com seems to have the best price.

Definitely go the Gee Bee route - great quality product and cuts a lot of time and frustration out of the job.

I've been as skeptical as anybody on this but I think Sandia can pull it off. It looks like they have shifted their production the next couple months from the Sandia 340 to the KI-300.

http://www.bendixking.com/V4/KI-300 King's website says: "Eliminates labor intensive panel reconfiguration, costly PFD installation and need for external autopilot adapters."

Wait til you hear tomorrow's lesson . . lol

I realize this is really picky, but . . . Who should be used to refer to the subject of a sentence. Whom should be used to refer to the object of a verb or preposition. When in doubt, try this simple trick: If you can replace the word with “he”' or “'she,” use who. If you can replace it with “him” or “her,” use whom.

Probably not a good idea . . .

1) If your IFD440 was purchased with WiFi and Bluetooth you'll see the screen at start up that you must agree to accept WiFi and Bluetooth. About six months after they introduced the IFD440 they dropped the price to be competitive to the Garmin GTN650, but no longer was WiFi and Bluetooth standard, there is a $999 unlock fee. WiFi and Bluetooth are standard on the IFD540 and 550. http://www.avidyne.com/files/downloads/literature/AV645_Retail_PL.pdf 2) Is your Mooney outside in clear view of the sky and is the status page of the IFD440 showing a GPS position? I'm not sure if it gets a GPS lock in maintenance mode. This forum may help with your questions: http://forums.avidyne.com/default.asp

Hector at Aero Comfort does a nice job on very good quality carpet.

Friends don't let friends buy Gill batteries . . . after buying many Gills I found out personally that the Concorde sealed battery (24-15) is a much better battery.

A lot of head room . . .

Did you take it to Clarence to have him take a look at it?

The KAP/KFC 150 were designed when King was at the top of their game and they were cutting edge when they came out. If they are aligned properly they still fly on rails. However, if you want to be happy with one of these, don't ever let a shop touch it if they are not experts at it. Find one really good shop that knows these intimately and let one person get it right. That usually means that person has worked there for years and it goes without saying that they have all of the King test boxes. Going from shop to shop, letting a new guy learn on your autopilot trying to get it right will frustrate you to no end. There are a lot of people willing to take a stab at it but usually they induce more problems than you had to start. The airplane I have now only has 660TT (on a 25 year old airplane). On the Mooney invoice from 1993 the KFC150 was $26,400 (with ALT pre-select) at the time - a small fortune. But I can't imagine the airplane without it. I have had STEC's in Pipers that I've owned and there is no comparison. I nicknamed the STEC "S-Turn" since that's how it seemed to fly an ILS compared to the King. Other than a King shop replacing the KI256 a couple times before I got it (which is definitely the weak point on this autopilot), and me having the KG102A overhauled, the logs show that the autopilot has never had any work done. That's probably why I am happy with it since not many well meaning people have touched it. It flies beautifully. I have no intention of replacing mine, but after the KI-300 is out for awhile and it turns out to be reliable, I might think about replacing the KI-256 and pulling the vacuum system.

Your C looks great! My friend tells me it's one of the nicest C's he's ever inspected.

I think as shops are filling up their schedules the prices are going up - supply and demand. Two years ago someone got a KT74 installed at Precision Avionics for $600 labor. Go to page three and the second post on this thread: The only advantage of putting anything with the King name would be that there was just a few hours of labor to run the wires since it's a "slide-in" replacement. Hindsight being 20/20, the $2995 GTX335 deal which is allowed to be installed by an A&P might be a better deal.

The KX170 will probably outlast anything else in the panel. Although they look dated, they transmit powerfully (much better than a Garmin 430 or 530). Nothing wrong with it for a #2 radio. Panels are very personal - no reason for Jake to put more money into the panel - let the next owner decide. You can easily find your way to your destination with that panel. Now is a good time to wait and see what's going to be available in the next 3 years.

SWTA is not in San Marcos anymore - they are at New Braunfels (KBAZ).

If Dugosh is maintaining it you're probably looking at a good airplane!

Looks great! Good price for a sorted-out, ADS-B in/out, LED all around, new interior, new paint, modern panel J model! I doubt that any of us without Jake's connections and resources could take an average J on the market and do all of this for close to that price. Things add up very fast trying to bring an older airplane up to these standards

After that trip his airplane deserves a paint job. Brian did an amazing thing, but that little 231 did a pretty amazing job too.

In February my flaps (M20M) would not retract after takeoff. I came back and landed and no movement trying to get them up. They would move further down then were stuck in the full down position. I pulled off the belly pan and located the micro switches (up limit and down limit) . They were very clean but I hit them with contact cleaner. Still nothing. I tried wiggling the flaps with the switch on to see if that did anything . . nothing. I found the circuit board and two relays for the flap actuator, one that controls the up circuit, one that control the down circuit. I swapped relays and got the flaps up and now the down circuit didn't work so it meant that the one relay was bad. I ordered two new relays since they are both the same age. The bad relay shows that it was burned. http://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-w67rcsx-3/70184966/ So when the new relays came in I replaced them both for a grand total of $43.68 with tax and shipping and everything works great now. My mechanic signed off on it.

He needs to meet you and see your enthusiasm about flying. Bring him a t-shirt . . lol

I had a 310 hp 2000 Ovation for a year and a half (with A/C) and used to plan on 180 KTAS.