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About aggiepilot04

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  • Birthday 11/05/1981

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    Austin, TX
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  1. Hey Geoff, I will try to record a video the next time I do this, but it's pretty straightforward. 2 most important things: keep your connections clean (especially petroleum products - you don't want to blow yourself up), and open the valves very gradually. Connect your setup to the port on your airplane, and then slightly crack open the valve on the tank with lower pressure. Let the pressure equalize (if you hear rattling, you're doing it to quickly...close the valve on the tank). I may be overly cautious on this, but I barely crack the valve and let it equalize very slowly. Then I gradually open it more after it stops hissing. Once you have the tank fully open and it stops hissing, close that tank and gradually open the tank with more pressure in the same way. When you exchange a tank, obviously exchange the one with lower pressure. Then your previously high pressure tank becomes the low pressure tank, and your newly exchanged tank becomes your high pressure tank. You'll get the most out of your tanks this way. All of this being said, I never had anyone demonstrate this for me. This came from research here on MS and elsewhere. I'm sure there are plenty of other MSers out there that are happy to correct me if any part of this procedure is incorrect...hah!
  2. I was there in March for a ski trip to Winter Park, and I likely flew your same flight path if you're coming from Austin. Based on the winds at the peaks, I was expecting bumps on the way in (and got none), but not on the way out (and had my cage rattled more than I'd prefer). When I arrived (attached is a shot of WP on the descent), the winds favored runway 9, and when I departed, the winds favored I didn't have to think much about the terrain east of the field. On departure, a left turn out (basically on course) allowed me to follow the valley down through the Winter Park area again gaining altitude before crossing the peaks. I had trouble getting the fuel pump to work on the field, but finally pulled it out and retracted it enough to work the kink out in the box (that I couldn't see). I didn't see a soul on the field arriving or departing, and there were no other airplanes on the ramp. Make sure to line up transportation before you go, because that was also a challenge. Maybe that's all different in the summer...not sure. I have yet to wander into the Rockies outside of ski season, but my wife has been wanting to do that let me know how it goes!
  3. I have a Skybound G2 USB Adapter that I no longer need. Maybe $40? Let me know if you're interested.
  4. I did that exact thing in Leadville a couple of years ago. Zero style points, but soooo much room for the ski gear.
  5. I have made this mistake before. Those fancy, low profile, dual 2A output chargers are 12V only. Plugging them into a 28V cigarette lighter fries them almost instantly...before even tripping a breaker. Alot of the chargers that aren't low profile are both 12/ just make sure to check the specs first.
  6. Thanks for the input. I will try to find out what kind of paint they used.
  7. I actually have the pictures attached out of order. The gold looking one is the most recent paint failure. I am unfamiliar with the process of prep/priming/painting, but you're right...that's what it looks like. Either that, or the primer didn't stick to the prop the first time, and the paint didn't stick to the primer the second.
  8. That would have been my guess the first time. However, the second paint job was actually completed by a different Sensenich shop a year and a half later (PA was closer for the previous owner, GA is closer for me). Plus, you would think that they would take every precaution to make sure that it was prepped properly on a do-over so that they didn't have to do the work for free again...
  9. Howdy all, Sensenich overhauled the Hartzell prop on my Mooney in August 2015, and it only had about 50 hours on it before I started losing paint the first time. The airplane was down for repairs for a while though, so the paint had had over a year to cure. I let Sensenich know what had happened, and they picked it up and repainted it for me at no charge (I still had to pay the local mechanic to pull the prop and reinstall). However, less than 10 hours (30 days) after having it reinstalled, it happened again. Images from each time are attached. This last time, I ran through some light precip on the approach into AUS. If the precip is what caused this, avoiding precip indefinitely isn't really realistic (is it??). I wipe bugs from all leading edges (including the prop) after each flight, but I have only used water and a microfiber towel thus far since my paint job is somewhat fresh. Sensenich says they haven't had this issue before and that precip shouldn't cause it. They're going to take care of it again, but I'd really like for it to stop happening. Anyone else had this issue or have any ideas what would cause it? Thanks in advance.
  10. I know of the perfect airplane! Meets all of your criteria (except 2-bladed prop). Previous owner had a gear up around 2005, and it went back to Mooney for repairs. Regarding valuation, I don't think I am in a position to offer an unbiased opinion, but I do think it's priced fairly. I have asked David/Jimmy to bring it down to 133k though because owning 2 airplanes is no fun. Doesn't look like that has been reflected on controller yet.
  11. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. While I'm still at the hangar, here's where mine is. I actually don't have the batteryminder (it's on my list)...just the wiring. And it appears to only be wired to batt 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Made it out with the voltmeter tonight. Getting 24v from the switch, 24v on one side of the relay, nothing on the other. It appears that I'm going to need one of these high-priced relays: I suppose it's not quite as painful as the battery. Thanks all for the help and insight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No popped breakers and the voltage according to the panel showed normal (before going dark). But that would have been showing the voltage from the alternator, right? Voltage on batt 1 was normal with the alt switch off. I didn't have my voltmeter with me at the time, but I'll take it out there tonight to further troubleshoot.
  15. This would make a lot of sense...for several reasons: I don't have switching batteries on a checklist (yet), so it always winds up being an afterthought. The nature of the failure (with no previous issues with the battery) The fact that the charge rate/voltage still show normal. Someone in a PM mentioned that I should switch battery 1 and battery 2 to confirm that it was a battery and not a relay. I'll get back out there tonight with a volt meter to do some more troubleshooting. Thanks for the insight!