1964-M20E

True one good GUMPS is all you need. By doing it 3 times it decreases the chances that you will forget it and give you 3 chances to make sure you put the gear down. Not only that sometimes things can get quite busy something unexpected to disrupt you sequence and bam no gear to land on. Just think Allstate commercials with mayhem. Everyone here knows that forgetting the gear will make for a very bad day of flying.

I want to know if you won the race? At least that is what you flight path looks like.

With our planes, as others have said, gear down is the most important of all things on landing. Everything else will sort itself out, flaps, mixture, prop etc. This philosophy might not apply on larger more complex planes. G - gear down. U - undercarriage (gear down)! M - moron make sure the gear is down!! P - pecker head put the gear down!!! S - SOB put the #$#%^&%$ gear down now!!!!!!!!!

Kind of scary I go on a local VFR fun flight don't talk to anyone and not long after landing I get an email that I landed.

Interesting I never thought of it this way.

I think he may be referring to the 1500 hours for ATP requirement???

no my landing was on the runway and quite uneventful.

the E is an excellent 2 place 4 seat aircraft. I have had 3 adults in my E before. I'm 6-2 so the seat behind me is not very useful. However, the E is an excellent plane to buy. As for the avionics get as much as you can when you buy it or expect to spend money upgrading it to you liking over the years you own it.

Mine is a little different on the older M20F but there is nothing magical about it just a piece of baffling material of the correct thickness and cut to fit and attached to the door.

ouch !! looks like a newer model it should fly again. I've landed there before.

If I find mine getting stiff when I check the oil I let a drop of oi form the dip stick hit the center shaft of the cap. Works like a charm every time and lasts about a year or more.

Good luck my friend. We all love our Mooney but any real aviator loves anything that flies. That's one good looking RV8.

Have you tried Air Forms out of Alaska? They made me one for my 64E several years ago.

One case of an airliner running out of fuel happen here in New Orleans TACA airlines 737 ran out of fuel and landed safely about 20 miles east of MSY. Everyone walked off the plane. A few days or weeks later they turned it around and flew it out. I'm not sure of any other case where a large plane like that in commercial service did an emergency off field landing and they flew the plane out again. I have run one tank dry in flight especially on long flights. I want my remaining fuel all in one tank. My fuel procedure with 54 gallon bladders is burn 10 gallons off the first tank. Then run the second tank until dry if necessary or until I am 30 minutes from my destination. I then switch back to tank 1. About every 30 minutes or so I am cross checking fuel levels, flow rates and fuel used.

Thankfully I have never had to do this but if I am correct you pull the prop handle all the way out and I was told during initial training that if you slow the plane some past the best glide the pop will stop and then you can resume your glide. I guess one could try this with enough altitude and near an airport actually stop the engine completely. Maybe next time I find the need to use all fuel in one tank and if I am by myself I might try this.

no I'm just a pilot

I have seen that happen on a Beech Musketeer but the hose was not replaced after a water landing. This did cause another off airport emergency landing due to a collapsed hose. Also the length of unsupported Scat hose would be minimal in the E and F models only about 2" just enough to allow for vibrations between the cowling and the engine.

I'm thinking the only restriction you have is the air filter and that should be minimal 0.5" the rest of the pressure drop from ambient comes from the throttle body if the air-filter is clogged you have the bypass. An easy way to find out would be to put an old MP gauge with a line hooked to the air box just behind the filter.

yes it will help in identifying where leaks are coming form and possibly reveal a crack that was hidden by dirt. When washing my engine I primarily lower half around the crank case.

This is one reason I don't like glass. However, it is not the glass that is the problem the problem is how it was implemented by being integrated into the type certificate. These panels should be treated like any other TSO instrument in the panel. The FAA needs to come out and give a blanket approval to replace these glass panel avionics inside the aircraft with TSO type avionics and move oven all in the name of safety and nex gen.

Yeah $300 +/- is pretty expensive for the boot but at the end of the day is it really worth trying to make a new molded rubber one if the originals are available? I thought of using a piece of 2 1/2" maybe 3" scat hose and making an adapter to fit on the throttle body and the cowling with a flat piece of aluminum and a piece of 2 1/2" aluminum pipe. It's simple, short, easily replaceable with commonly available items. The most fabrication you have is some cutting and welding on aluminum. Is there any real drawback to this? Intake collapsing maybe? Maybe not enough room to make it work? There is very little differential pressure on this part and it would not be very long at all maybe 2" of unsupported duct for the flex between the engine and cowling. Surely the SCAT is capable of handing anything the rubber boot we now have has to handle. Don't other manufacturers use SCAT to direct intake air form the filter to the throttle body or carburetor? I've really only worked on the Mooney with my A&P of course. Shoot away if you want. Just my thoughts.

I'll use some denatured alcohol after the mineral spirits makes for a nice clean engine. Wipe all accessible area like with a cloth. I use these sprayers (made in USA) they work real well put about 80psi of air in them with a quart of liquid. I even have one with brake fluid for bleeding brake lines when necessary.

If the prop is still spinning the magnetos will still be firing assuming they were firing before the engine quit regardless if you have a turbo or not. I'm not sure what trying to start the engine with the starter would have to do with that. Now maybe the propeller will not windmill at higher altitudes I have not been that high to find out. However, if I did have an engine failure and was trying a restart I'm going to let the prop windmill for that attempt and then if unsuccessful and have to put it down somewhere I'll try and stop the windmilling for greater glide if needed. I have done a restart in the air already when I intentionally ran one tank dry on a long flight and yes I did lean the mixture before switching tanks so the engine would not over-speed when it started getting fuel again.

131 pages of light reading thanks Yetti. Would you care to summarize it for us literary challenged folks around here? Not only a CB but lazy too.

I agree with DOC the ground wire from the ignition switch maybe you issue especially since you cannot shut it down with the ignition switch. Which also means you have hot mags so be careful when rotation the engine by the prop. This would make starting harder and kickback a possibility since you are not grounding the right mag and the normal points on the left mag. i.e not using the retard points when starting and trying to stat at 25 degrees BTC timing.