NicoN

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About NicoN

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wiesbaden, Germany
  • Model
    M20K from 1980, EDM830, GNS430W; Century 21

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  1. My question may sound stupid: Our maintenance guy somehow lifted the front gear on a low stool to make oilchange and all work easier. I did not remember how he did this. I only know, he did this in his own without help these days I wanted to do the same and failed . It was simply too heavy to lift at the prop ( or I was to shy) and I decided it is not a good idea to push on the tail. Any ideas how to get this done without being in a wrestler-like shape? EDIT: It's an M20K with the large. heavy 6-cylinder big-block-engine
  2. Our M20K has a Century 21 A/P - so no auto-trim. But we have electrical trim - as mentioned with the combined switch on the yoke, a rocker switch and a separate c/B
  3. Yesterday I found the Elevator Trim ON/OFF-switch in OFF-position for the second time. It was always discovered after take-off (shame on me), because the electrical trim was not working After switching to ON anything was fine. But, I am thinking why it was found in OFF-position. Normally, this switch is never used and always in ON AFAIK, this switch is also a C/B, so, it might be trapped rather than swapped to OFF by a human being. AFAIK, the electrical elevator trim has lots of items to switch it off: - the TRIM interrupt-button on the yoke - a C/B in the panel as part of the rocker switch assembly directly next to the yoke column - why this in addition to the rocker-switch? - a separate rocker switch (with C/B-function?) to switch electrical trim on or off My first idea is/was: I was flying with to people only in the front seats. So, I supposedly used maximum nose-up trim for the landing. Maybe, the trim motor ran into mechanical stop and caused the switch-type C/B to trap ? Aren't there limit switches on the trim motor gear ? I don't have a maintenance manual with me right now, so just an idea. It is a Mooney M20K-231 from 1980
  4. @kortopates: Thank you for your information. Extremely interesting. We have a M20K-231 equipped with an EDM830. The recommended procedure for lean finding needs to pre-lean the engine to a certain ROP position, then wait and after minutes do the lean-finding. I tried this procedure pretty often. but always start the leaning pretty soon. as the temperatures are quickly rising! So, now I lean more or less down to 11.5gph, wait only few seconds and then to the lean find procedure. The EDM830 never failed to detect the LOP point. I always further lean to stay between 30 to 70° LOP and end up at 8,2 to 9.5 gph and temperatures max of 365 CHT for #2 and TIT ~1520 (TSIO-360GB). But, during the Lean-find, the Power decreases from 67% down to ~58%. Is it legal to advance the throttle then to come back near 65%? Doing this, I see sometimes the EGTs even more decreasing, then increasing again. I never ever go higher than 65% LOP
  5. thank you for all of your answers. Indeed, I see no problem by pulling the Mooney forward. Pushing backward or manouvering the aircraft into the hangar seems to be problematic: You always have to lift up the SchleppMaxxe, move it to the side ( of course maximum possible angle). I will look for a another model
  6. Since many years we are using a so called "SchleppMaxxe" electrical towing device to move our M20K. It grabs into that pipe in the front gear where also the the normal towing bar is fixed. My concern is the limited turn angle of the front gear. To move our aircraft we have to lift up the "SchleppMaxxe" and move it from one side to the other Recently I read about the danger of damaging something on the front gear. It is the model TF1 from https://towflexx.de/flugzeugschlepper/, but there should lots of other models from different brands around What is the best practice in moving the aircraft?
  7. What's wrong? In my dreams, after such an avionics upgrade there is only a thin cable left for the CAN-Bus hopping from one device to the next and maybe a few thin, short cables for addtional RS232 or ARINC for special purposes. And 2 little hoses for static and pitot. That's it. Lots of air and space behind the panel. But yours looks different. Hope, this picture was taken BEFORE the big pull of cable removing
  8. @Emmet: Your gasket may be failing. My leakage was at the bottom, below the fuel hose and even under that small flat profile. You also have fuel tracks in the back corner where the main spar is.
  9. There is not much infomation available of how those alarm lights work on the EDM830. Perhaps they are often not wired ? At least none of the aircrafts I have seen with EDM830 had those lights wired. I just wired the two alarm contacts these days, so I feel free to share my experience: Both Alarm contacts have to be wired against +12V/+24V. They are both open collector outputs which can drive a lamp or LED easily. So, don't use an LED out of your parts box but use an LED which is intended for use with 12V or 24V. Connect the plus-wire of your LED to +12V and the minus-wire to the desired Pin. If they light up, it is not a constant light on, but flashing about twice or triple a second.. So, I think they cannot be used for audio messages - at least not directly. How it works: in hangar with engine off, it seems that only the low-fuel warning light is triggered in case you have programmed your fuel-on-board lower than the absolute fuel limit. The engine warning light seems not to work in this situation. So, donÄt expect this light to be ON with oil-pressure 0 and oil-temp at hangar level. Also, battery voltage can go low without triggering the light. Is this intended? With engine on, the engine warning light is flashing as long as the oil-temp is still low and goes off in case all params are fine. Absolutely useful feature. In flight - especially at take off or climb, it does exactly what you expect. Any CHT, MAP, RPM above limits is indicated. For EGT, TIT, Vbat and so on, i could not test it so far. In LOP-mode, the warning light did not work as expected. It did not come up when I forgot to exit LOP-mode and exceeded the MAP-limit!!! But it came up flashing as soon as I left LOP-mode. So ,be careful. For the low fuel trigger, there are two different events which bring the LED to flashing. a) Remaining fuel below programmed absolute minimum ( e.g 10 gals) b) Remaining fuel below programmed time-to-empty.(e.g. 45minutes ) Both events can be cleared on the EDM830, then the flashing LED stops. I could not test if in this case, the low-fuel alarm stays quiet forever.
  10. We have Shaw 431 fuel caps. And they are painted. Over the years and especially as my co-owner were using pliers to open and close them, they now look awful. Is it possible to strip off the paint and polish them? Just an idea. I like those polished fuel caps
  11. Update: in my original posting I talked about a rheostat in combination with a big resistor with a cooler. Also the schematic seemed to me that the regulation is simply converting power to heat. But I was wrong! Even in my schematic there are 2 transistors for panel lighting and instrument lighting on the far right end of the schematic. And these are controlled by rheostat and resistor. only the compass lighting seems to be independant ... shame on me Q1: Why the hell is there a C/B for panel lighting and another fuse near the transistor ? To be honest: I have never seen the transistors, but only 4 grey plastic caps where fuses are under. This is located under the RH panel. Q2: i am not an electrical engineer, but is it possible to replace the combination of rheostat and resistor with a PWM dimmer? This could mean, the PWM dimmer is providing switched power to the transistor and this one siwtches on and off my glare shield lamps (or LEDs) Thank you!
  12. We had exactly these problems: - The fuel cap was hard to handle. Only possible with pliers ( now they look accrodingly :-( ). You can adjust the fuel caps with the castle nut. But it is also a good idea to change the gaskets. We have the "-431" caps. You are in EU? I can send you the source for the gaskets. We also had that fuel smell. After removing the interior panel there were lots of blue tracks from AVGAS. The isolation foam was soaked with AVGAS and stinking. The leak came not from the fuel sender but from the corner wing/first rib. Use kitchen paper towels to find out the location for the leak. But it may be misleading as the AVGAS seems to go everywhere.
  13. My question may sound funny: In 2017 (before i entered the group of owners) our tanks were re-sealed. According to the bill RH AND LH. In summer 2019 I noticed fuel smell in cabin and in winter, I removed the interior panel and found blue AVGAS in the lower edge of the first wing rib. (LH) Also, in summer 2019 I have seen blue "tracks" on one of the tank access panels on the upper side of the wing (also LH) but only when the tank was filled to the max. It seems, I was the first person to push our Mooney to the limits and filling the tanks to the MAX. Okay, recently the LH tank was re-sealed by the same maintenance which did the first procedure. Of course, they presented us a high bill for that - and we do not want to pay for it. The first attempt was, they told us, the LH tank never was re-sealed. Now the question is - which life-time can I expect from a tank sealing procedure? The maintenance guy says, that it is completely normal for a tank leaking again even after roughly 2 1/2 years. Hot temperatures can cause this (our Mooney lives in a hangar for 98% of the year!), cold temperatures can cause this, every landing(!) can cause this. Hey guys: We are living in mid-Europe, it does not get excessively hot and not super-cold in winter!!! I think, I can expect several years of non-leaking at least, but not 2 or 3 years. What is your experience with re-sealed tanks ??
  14. Did I read the Garmin compatibility list right: Our Century 21 is supported but not our S-TEC 60PSS which does altitude hold. Is there any solution to have Altitude pre-select. I know that there is a little even cheap box around which can simulate a ALT pre-select at least for Aspens.
  15. Funny. I am absolutely sure I have seen only a rheostat and this resistor. And this is according to the schematic ... Definitely no electronics box ...