NicoN

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About NicoN

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wiesbaden, Germany
  • Model
    M20K from 1980, EDM830, GNS430W; Century 21

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  1. the colours faded. The glass looks fine. I found a company, but they say it depends on how the scale is fixed (?) if they can do the job
  2. Our airspeed indicator looks terrible . the face (?) colours look very pale. So I asked a local manufacturer for repair/repainting the face. But they need the type of indicator to tell me if they can do the job. Is this a common type?
  3. Interesting offer. But, for the G3X, you need a AHRS-module, magnetometer and so on, isn't it?
  4. I am sure that my fuel selector is ON when using the HIGH BOOST pump
  5. I use the High boost pump method for starting our TSI360-GB. It works perfect and the engine never quit or stumbled after a cold start. This works perfectly, with the fuel selector in left or right position. A few weeks ago, I decided to leave the fuel slector in OFF-position overnight. The next day, with the same method, the engine starts after 2 half turns, and after few seconds stumbles for a moment. With a little throttle I can avoid dying, then everything is fine. My first supect was water in the fuel strainer, but it also happens with carefully draining both wings and the fuel strainer. And - of course - I already forgot to bring the fuel selector out of the OFF-position. Then the engine quits definetely after 3-4 seconds !!!! Is there any explanation for this behaviour? I want just avoid overseeing something. Its always the same: L or R position - no stumbling; OFF - stumbling after I night in the hangar or somewhere else.
  6. Did you test the high voltage power supply? AFAIK, the power supply gets its 12V from a red shielded wire. The shield is grounded and the whole case is grounded to your airframe. The yellow wire is for syncing left and right strobe. So, without the yellow wire both sides should fire but not in sync. The tail strobe does not have the yellow wire. You can also test on the high voltage side. Between red and black should be ~350+ V. Be careful with tests!!!! The high voltage stays for 20' after switching off in case your strobe did not fire. Did you test your power supply with a known good strobe?
  7. Lots of information and not easy tp understand. I will think about all your thoughts
  8. Okay, thnak you! Normally I try to keep MAP constant. These days I had seen the effect, that TIT was going up rapidly. I pulled back MAP and enriched, that cured the situation. You do it by only enriching?
  9. Yes, it's a 231 with the GB engine. Thank you for clarification. So, no WOT, even not with more leaner mixture. Hope, I can on time cross-check those numbers! Let me continue with another question: Is there a specific descending technique after cruising ? Let's say I was cruising for 2h in F100 with 28"/2500RPM/8.5-9gph and 50° dLOP. At the moment, I compensate only for the increasing MAP to stay at 27-28" and keep the rest constant. Is there anything better? Of course, by reaching my lower altitude, e.g. for pattern, then I push in the mixture to be on the rich side as soon as I have to increase the power.
  10. Okay, thank you. Is flyinig LOP still okay in FL150-170? Or is it mandatory to stay on the ROP side for cooling?
  11. May I come back to this pretty old thread ? Recently I was playing around a bit while being at 9000ft. Already at LOP for several minutes, I started pushing the throttle in while leaving the mixture unchanged. Indeed, my EGTs temperatures decreased by giving more throttle. I guess, I can bring my engine (TSIO360-GB) to quit by simply advancing the throttle. But, is it possible or does it make sense to fly LOP with throttle wide-open and controlling power with the mixture lever? I have seen pilots flying their NA engines with throttle wide-open. Thanky you!
  12. My co-owner recently flew FL160 with our M20K (GB-ENgine). He complained that the engine does not produce 100% HP at this altitude and expected full power until at least FL170. Also, it was difficult to keep the CHTs under control. He reported, he had to use full rich, cowl flaps half open. According to EDM830, as usual #2 cylinder was hottest with 386F, EGTs between 1290 and 1380, TIT ~1430. FF ~18.7 Speed is not available at the moment, GPS-Alt was roughly 17000ft. Is this normal? I have no experience with those altitudes.
  13. We have an old-fashioned Century 21 A/P which is still working fine. But we do not habe a A/P disconnect button. My question is if it is possible to wire such a button. I found the POH for this particular A/P but not an installation manual or wiring scheme. Does someone has this information ?
  14. Okay, it is done and working flawlessly. But the process of changing the control cable and adjusting is a little tricky and some planning may save you lots of time. So, let me share my experiences with the community. Changing the control cable: - the new part came from Mooney, but is made by McFarlane. SO, you may save some money getting the part from there - plan 3hours + with 2 persons working - take a lot of photos from the cowl flap mechanism in both end positions and between from both sides! The scissor mechanism is rocket science. It may save you time and avoid mistakes - I pushed a piece of tightrope into the outer bowden cable before removing the old cable as a guide wire for the new one. - Make sure the cable stays clear from the flight controls! Rigging the cowl flap: The scissor mechanism locks the cowl flap in closed and open position. The trailing position is something in between. It is a rotating bar with lever arms on both sides left and right. What you need: - new cotter pins - some shims may be needed to reduce play I made the mistake to simply "copy" the rigging from photos according to the old cable. That did not work. It turned out, that in closed position of the cowl flap handle the lever arm on left side stopped in a close to 11-12 o'clock position (viewed from the left side). together with play it failed to keep the cowl flap closed. The lever arm MUST reach a clear over-center position ( 1 o'clock position). I recommend that the lever/bar reaches the mechanical stop with a little travel on the control cable left. The problem is, that the major part of the rigging has to be done withe the lower cowling removed. In case of failure you have to remove the lower cowling again. I recommend to do it the following way: 1. the firewall-side threaded end of the outer bowden-cable should be adjusted to have most of the threads ABOVE the #5 angle. WIth your own extra long arms, short fingers, short wrench and a lot of talent you may do corrections later on without removing the lower cowling. 2. The next thing to adjust is the threaded bar with the 2 holes for the scissor arms in it. Don't gforget a hex nut before you screw the bar onto the control cable thread! Check your photos for correct positioning. 3. Turn the control bar to the closed position mechanical stop and the control cable also to the closed position. 4. check the scissor arm which goes to the far-end hole of the bar before inserting the bolt 5. It is now hanging more or less near the hole in the bar. 6. Adjust the length of the bar by turning to bring the distal hole LOWER than the hole in the hanging scissor arm. 7. insert the bolts and secure them with cotter pins. Additional shims may help to reduce play. I needed 3 iterations of the procedure. After the first attempt, the cowl flap did not stay closed. After the second, the cowl flap stayed closed, but only if I managed to close it below 125kts. Now it is easy to handle and can be closed at any speed without much force. IMG_2157.MOV IMG_2158.MOV IMG_2159.MOV
  15. Okay, I learnt a lot. I was not in rain for a longer time to see bubbles - or was concentrating on other things. New O-rings are on the list already My first suspect to check is whether holes in the ribs are blocked with sealant. On my M20K the wing side gauge keeps moving up after closing the gas nozzle. May be normal or indicating a lower than normal fuel dissipation in the tank compartments.