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NicoN

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About NicoN

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wiesbaden, Germany
  • Model
    M20K from 1980, EDM830, GNS430W; Century 21

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  1. Has someone removed the glass of the AI for cleaning? AFAIK it is not sealed
  2. Just a question: We have 3 flasher boxes in our M20K and GND seems to be the aircraft structure. It works fine after I overhauled 2 of the flasher boxes with new sets of capacitors. But - using an ANR headset (first was a Bose A20), i can hear a low volume Wheeping sound synchronized with the flashes. It can be heard only with low RPM, in cruise flight I almost cannot hear that sound. on chrsitmas, I added a ANR headset based on a Bose QC25. The ANR quality is far beyound the A20!, but the wheeping sound is now clearly audible! Is this a typical problem of the flasher boxe
  3. @carusoam: The drawing shows parts and dimensions for the 3" extension. Is there also a drawing with exact dimensions available for the 1,5" version? I am not sure, if we simply can take over the dimensions
  4. @carusoam: Thank. That is exact what I am looking for.
  5. Does anybody have the drawings? Some angels gave the drawings to me about a year ago. But, I cannot find the file anymore, I'm afraid
  6. Great work! I tried myself to do it using a schematic software. I spent many hours and finally gave up because of the same loops I can see in your layout :-) I chose the brute force method and changed all capacitirs
  7. We can buy a used GNS430W as a supplement/replacement for our KX155. The KX155 has a KI204 connected and can drive our venerable Century 21/STEC 60PSS We already have a GNS430W together with GI106 working fine as GPSNAVCOM #1. For now, the KI204 should stay and should be connected to the 2nd GSN430W. Later on we want to upgrade more but not for now I got varying information from different sources whether this works or not. 1. We received a proposal that says, the KI204 is NOT compatible with the GNS430W; therefore they want us to sell a GI106 or G5 2. According to the
  8. Thank you for clarification. We have a natural number of 2 magnetos in our M20K. A subset of 1 Magneto stopped working properly.To be precise: 1 Quantum of sparks became irreal. As a SureFly ignition costs only slightly more than a imaginary overhauled magneto. So, the question was: could this be the oppoertunity to switch to a technology which is advertised as being working for infinite time. The answer is NO. by co-owners wanted to stay conservative with natural number of 2 magnetos. Not 1, not 3 - just 2! I am afraid to tell you, that the bill for this
  9. Sorry to ask: what is a “Pi-Plane”. ?
  10. After completing the repair, I can give some more information of how this trim switch in our 1980 M20K works: There are a lot of safety feaures, intended to giv you full control on the trim wheel ... 1. We have a kind of electrical clutch which is activated by pushing down the plunger (?) of the switch. Without pressing the plunger, the trim motor moves ( as long as you operate the trim switch in up or down direction), but it does not turn the trim wheel. You only can hear the motor running 2. The motor itself is driven or energized via a relais. And this relais cuts the power
  11. Have some Mooniacs experiences with th SureFly Ignition system on a M20K with TSIO360-GB engine? I heard rumours that some have problems with CHT rising after installing it. I know, that turbocharged engines can not use the timing-advance feature.
  12. @bradp: I have exact this motor and also a relay box which seems to be mounted close behind the big hole in the fueslage. Any ideas of how this stuff works exact? I did not find wring drawings for this on centuryflight nor on S-Tec
  13. I came to this topic while searching for solutions of my problem. My electric trim stopped working, but definitely not due to a problem with the switch, relay or motor - they worked fine - but to my own stupid procedure (shame on me). My task was to replace the MIC-button. while trying to make the hole (for teh button) wider, the drill blocked and turned the assembly of aluminium cover with trim switch violently - all cables were torn off! Now I have 6 or 7 wires and only partial undertsnading what they do: red/white 12V purple/white 12V both switched with the elev
  14. @OR75: Correct, the switch has not clutch. But normally, if you press the Actuator (on the switch), then a clutch in the trim motor activates and you cannot move the trim wheel by hand. So, again: Move the trim switch to the up or down position, then the trim motor runs. But your trim wheel still does not move as the clutch is open. Press the trims switch AND move to up/down - then the motor runs an moves the trim wheel. At the moment, I can close the clutch without the switch just by applying 12V to the bl/wt-wire. Now, I cannot move the trim wheel by hand. But the second funct
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