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About NicoN

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    Wiesbaden, Germany
  • Model
    M20K from 1980, EDM830, GNS430W; Century 21

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  1. We have some screws on our interior panel which do not "bite" anymore. Especially on LH side where the lower panel and the upper part (below the windows) meet, some screws are only fro decoration. The panels are obviously only more or less fixed to each other but not on the structure. Does somebody have an idea how to repair those worn screw holes? I have to remove the left side and the situation will not improve, I suppose.
  2. We all sit a little too low in our M20K/1980. For me it is acceptable, but all passengers complain about it. The situation my get a little better if we manage to find someone who does a good upholstery of our front seats. They feel like camping chairs. But, I know, there are height adjustable seats around. Is this something we can do as a mod? I guess those seats are rare and expensive as unicorn sperm.
  3. Thank you. But how does the retrofit look alike? Is the drawing mentioned available ? (940029)
  4. I am looking for this . According to the Maintenance manual this is for S/N 25-0781 and on. But how about earlier ones? Where can I download this? Google did not find it. Greetings
  5. thank you for all your stories. Of course, it is a torture to your battery an alternator to crank your engine with just external power. But it may be the only alternative. But the main Point of my posting is still not clear: The Cessna guy was of the opinion that after cranking with external power and quickly removing the external power, then it may happen that your battery has still pretty low voltage so that the battery Solenoid cannot be Held in closed Position -> battery is detached from the electrical bus and does not Charge. I think, he also told me that in his Cessna the Battery relay is ONLY energized by the battery - not by the alternator. Of course, with enough voltage in your battery, the battery relay stays closed and THEN the power from the alternator reaches the battery, charges it and you can Forget my question. His solution: Don't remove the external power too fast. Keep it connected for a certain time and let the alternator do ist work. Maybe 3-5 minutes will be sufficient?
  6. Coming from another discussion: Supposed, my battery is completely drained because one of the convenience lights stayed on over 2 days: My engine then is cranked via external power. What happens if the external power is removed? Battery charges? Or Battery stops charging? And I have the same problem again after landing. From the Cessna perspective I was told, with a complete drained battery it can happen that the battery relay again opens because of low battery voltage (even with the alternator producing power?). The battery is detached from power and therefore stays uncharged. Your electric gear still works because the alternator keeps it alive. Do Mooneys behave that way? I am not sure if I can read the schematic correctly
  7. May I ask whether the typical LED-Stripes are dimmable with the Rheostats we have in our Mooneys? I am thinking of pieces of RGBW-Stripes and connect the White and the red control line to the Rheostats.
  8. I think, you need an OATP-Sensor installed in addition to the air-data-computer and GPS I think, you need an OATP-Sensor installed in addition to the air-data-computer and GPS
  9. The Price for a absolutely minimal G3X seems to be between 6600 and 7000$ (, 10.6G3X, LRU and install kit). I know this is experimental. So, how is the Price for the STC'd Version? Double?
  10. Sorry, my question may Sound stupid: I am following thsi thread for a while now and dreaming of moving in an G3X with all the stuff needed and 2 or 3 servos. But it seems difficult to even get detailed Information of what really is needed (aka a document for the STC?). Also I would like to know Details of how the servos are mounted. I think, this has Major influence on the costs. So far, I did not even try to get a Quote on the parts and the work. Where can I get all this Information? Or is it super secret?
  11. @Derek: Your plane should have 2 sensors. They are wired in series, so they together form a resistor between 0...60 ohms. The outboard sensor is connected to airframe with its body (=grounded). The other wire goes to THE BODY of the inboard sensor. The sensor itself must be isolated from the airframe. Otherwise your fuel gauge will show only half full tank! Technically the outboard sensor is disconnected from the circuit. This happens easily by losing the wire from the outboard sensor OR NOT USING PLASTIC SHOULDER WASHERS!!!!!!! The center pole/wire from the inboard sensor goes directly to the fuel-gauge. Removing the wire from the sensor gives maximum full deflection on the gauge. connected to airframe = zero reading.
  12. I was wondering that our 1980 M20K equipped with a Century 21 A/P does NOT have a disconnect button on the yoke. My co-owners were of the opinion we have one, but this button does exactly what is labeled - "Trim disconnect" My search went to the information that the Century21 on M20K was NOT STC'ed with a A/P-dicsonnect button. Is that really true? In my opinion such a button is not only an item of comfort but vital. So, why is that button missing in the STC? Forgotten? Dangerous? The option "not possible" is out of the list - it is techncally possible
  13. AFAIk my cowling near the turbo inspection door does not look fried. The reason for the paint-failure may be caused by the paint itself or the technique how they painted it. The cowling was re-painted a few years ago. And it seems that the heat exposed sheet metal parts from the cowling are especially prone to paint damage. - the right cowl flap (where the exhaust is) - the turbo inspection door Both seem to be sheet metal while the rest is fiber-glass. Which brings up 2 more questions: 1. Can I insulate those locations to avoid new damge after the paint job is done? 2. What is the right paint technique? Give it to a car painter?
  14. So, I got the information that the M20K was not STC'd with a disconnect button. But what is the resason to renounce? Do really all M20K equipped with a Century 21 have no A/P disconnect?
  15. ... and our #2 is also the hottest. In climb it easily limits the performance to stay under 380F. We have to climb with at least 120kts when coming higher. In cruise #2 has CHT ~360 to 370F. We adjusted already the left cowl flap to stay more open, hoping this directs more air along #2 cyl and oil cooler - but no change. I think as a next step e have to do the flashlight test. We may have imporved our baffling but I am still not convinced.