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Everything posted by N601RX
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Aviation Solutions Insurance broker
N601RX replied to Pictreed's topic in Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
Same here. I also like the way they forward me each one of the underwriter quotes as they get them in. -
Not the way to start a white christmas ski trip!
N601RX replied to kortopates's topic in Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
This many not have came into play here, but what is the average experience level on these charters assuming this flight was a charter. The few I've been on seemed to be either very young crews who looked to barely be out of high school or older guys who were perhaps retired airline guys who wanted to keep flying. -
You have likely had leaks for a long time. Now add an accutrac and you will real like it.
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The best thing I have found is to find an IA who will let you be his helper, preferably in your hanger. You can do a lot of the opening up and closing up for him and you will get to see, understand and discuss each thing he finds. When he is finished there will be no misunderstandings and you understand what work was done or needs to be done. I'm guessing that you will not find many people who do this and still have questions or disagreements on what was or wasn't done or the cost.
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It may be unrelated, but I noticed that within a few minutes of this happening that I am unable to edit any existing post.
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As of a few weeks ago the bulk rake price was $2.60 gallon.
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Aging mechanic new to forum looking to buy an M20F
N601RX replied to beech200's topic in General Mooney Talk
Even assuming worse case for both the crank and case serviceable repalcememts are readily available in the $2500 each range for an A1A engine. I purchased a similiar plane /engine a few years ago and overhauled the engine with the help of a friend who is an IA. With the exception of the external accessories, case, crank, rods and cylinders everything internal was replaced as well as dynamically balanced and Centrilub cam mod. I ended up with around $12K in parts and machine shop labor. Since it's already known that the cylinders are rusted to some degree I would plan on spending somewhere between $12-20k on getting the engine back in good condition if he chooses to do the overhaul himself. Here are some of the places I remember finding corrosion on some of the planes we looked at. wheelwells steel tubing under rear side windows spar under rear seat (remove rear seat and inspection panels under them) in the area behind the rear stub spar at the rear of the wings this is a small triangular area that doesn't always get looked at durring annual and is about 3 ft deep. -
I overhauled my engine a few years ago with the help of an friend who is an IA. I looked at both the Ney Nozzels and the Centri-lub mod. I did several "extra's" such the centrilub and complete dynamic balance. There were several people who had cam failures and I chose to do the Centrilub in hopes it would give the cam a better chance of having a long life. I believe Scott did it on his recent overhaul also.
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The only place I've saw dents mentioned is in the paint section of the maintenance manual. It just says fill them with body filler without offering any guidance on how big or where they may be filled.
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So how is pickling cheaper or easier than burning 3 gallons of fuel? The problem is these windows in not flying are not always planned, they just creep up. You are often 3 weeks in before you realize it may be a few more weeks. Work takes longer than expected, weather bad, work, family ect. The kits I've saw to pickle cost around $200 and will take at least a few hours. Then you will have to unpickle and put in new oil and filter, another hr or two labor. Total close to $300 in supplies and another 4-5hrs in labor.
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Edo-Aire Governor replacement on M20F
N601RX replied to Kevin's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Usually the arm or back cover can be rotated 180 deg. If your having to buy a new governor look at the PCU5000. Its a small compact design that is new, not overhauled. -
I had an issue a couple of years ago while installing a 201 windshield and 1 pc belly that I could not fly for about 2 months. I found that a 1200 RPM idle on the ground that my engine oil temp would reach 200 deg in about 10-12 minutes. The cylinder temps would stay around 350. I would let it run like this for 30 minutes after the oil reached 200 deg. I have the Centri-Lub cam so cam oiling at low speed wasn't an issue. I have a JPI 900 engine monitor and didn't see anything that would otherwise cause concern while doing this. I did it a couple of times until the work was finished.
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I've saw some people our airport crank their plane up and taxi 2 minutes up to the MX shop for work. The valve covers were removed 10 minutes later and everything had droplets of water on it.
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It seems to me it is nothing more than opportunistic greed. Here is their contact info. Perhaps we should all send them a note. http://www.weldonpumps.com/contact/
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I would not fly it without the logs back with the AD's and annual signed off . Suppose the landing gear collapses on touchdown or fuel line becomes stopped up with loose sealant. Do you think they would then give you a logbook entry stating that they had just serviced and adjusted the landing gear or resealed the tanks? There is also an AD on the fuel tank sealant to be sure it doesn't plug up the drain passages under each rib.
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We had some people upset at our airport when the hanger rent increased from $65 month to $90 month last summer! A couple even moved their planes out to the free tiedowns. Its all relative to what you have become accustomed to paying.
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Replacing the parts in the Shower of sparks is no guarantee it will work. The dwell has to be adjusted while connected to the mag. You need an amp meter, adjustable spark gap and sos overhaul manual. In addition to setting the gap you have to bend the arm the correct amount to get the coil current to an acceptable range. I know from experience that after replacing the points and setting the gap that it will buzz normally but will not fire a plug. After setting the dwell by bending the arm it came alive. You can find the manual that describes the procedure on the CSOB site.
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A couple of months ago the $800 price was still good, but a quick check of several places are all showing $1200-1300 now. At the $800 price many people were willing to upgrade, but at $1300 you can get 3 overhauls on the Dukes.
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I've used the Lightspeed Bluetooth app on my ipad and it is very clear.
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Required instruments, upgrade help
N601RX replied to jbs007's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
In addition to the Regs and type cert the other thing that can make it required equipment is that it has a listed limit in the limitations section for your manual. -
My brothers RV was built as a slider in that the canopy just slides straight back once it is unlatched. They can be built as either a tip up or slider, but the slider seems to be the preferred way.
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There may not be many AME's left. The ones I know are from smaller towns and are for the most part only doing 10-20 3rd class medicals year. From my understanding they have to attend certain activities to keep their AME privileges. The ones I know only do this because they are pilots and enjoy it. Will they continue to maintain their AME privileges for only a couple of patients? In larger towns they may be more demand, but in small towns with a rural airports their isn't going to be much demand.
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You can get them here, but if I remember correctly they are over $400. Rumor is they can be taken apart and repaired pretty easily. http://www.sigmatek.com/pages/prod_description/PD_ACC_vacswt.html
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I found the parts a few years agoand put them on my F model. Send me a PM and I can email you the install paperwork and drawings that will show you which part would will have to find. I ended up with around $500 total cost.
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It looks like it is just the top layer of silicon that has rubbed a little and not the actual shield. The top layer is mostly to help keep the wires clean and prevent oil from soaking into them. The picture only shows a small section of the harness, but other than the silicon rubbing it still looks pretty good. If there is any extra length in the lead you can cut the end off and reinsert it into the cap if you have the proper tools. Slick sells a kit with a special pair of modified vise grips for reattaching the mag ends, but they are expensive. Perhaps a local mechanic has the tools, harnesses are expensive.
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- magneto harness
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