N601RX

Search for touch and go's. There are some 1st hand accounts of members retracting the gear instead of the flaps. Why not practice stop and go's? There is much more skill to be learned from that. Make a point to be stopped in the 1st 1000 ft every time.

I've had trouble browsing to it also with IPad but can google search what I want and click on the link. Scroll all the way to the very bottom.

In addition to things mentioned in other post, most Mooney's don't have copilot brakes. You will be able to find a few that do, or they can be added to some models.

A short will trip the breaker almost immediately. If it's taking a couple of minutes to trip then it's likely either a weak breaker or lose screw/corrosion between the breaker and buss bar. The smell was probably the breaker getting hot.

Owner produced parts still require the use approved data to manufacturer the part for anything that is structural. This usually involves either getting factory drawings if available or working with a DER or FSDO reverse engineer and get the data approved. Once this has been done the tube from Mooney will likely be cheaper of the two, but if all this is done correctly there should not be any difference between the tube purchased from Mooney and a tube purchased from a aircraft aluminum supplier that will also provide a copy of the material cert.

Per sky-tec "Sky-Tec has once again simply done what makes common sense. In this case, we simply replicated the best OE solenoids using all new tooling and the highest quality materials to ensure the industry has access to exacting the real thing: aviation (not automotive) solenoids that fit and wire the same as the originals did. The terminals are the right size and in the right place and the internals are high quality and built to take the beating that only our smaller piston-engine aircraft can dish out. We also enhanced inrush capability to ensure maximum performance with Sky-Tec high torque, lightweight starters."

There is a new IO 720 bendix Mag on eBay. I believe they said it was around $12k us if purchased new.

Sky tech now has a line of both master and starter relays that are pma approved for most Mooney models. The price seems very reasonable compared to the previous options. $69 http://www.skytecaircraftstarters.com/Solenoids.htm

We have a scanning electron microscope in our foundry at work that will determine the elemental composition. Once this is done then it's just a matter of comparing the element percentages to the composition of common alloys. This will give you the alloy. Then a hardness test or tension coupon pull test will deterime the heat treat condition. The aluminum ones are likely 2024-t3.

According to Lasar's web site the can be purchased with or without the antenna. See 107 and 107a http://www.lasar.com/mods.asp

Unfortunately it's been many years since the vintage part manuals have been updated. Many of the pn have been superceeded and consolidated. I was looking at nose gear pn's a few years ago and found at least 7 or 8 different pn listed for various models and year, but currently there were only 2 pn's being produced to replace the various previous pn's. Between these 2 part numbers numbers they were approved replacements for all models.

Unfortunately this is a case of it being worthless to most because they don't need it at the given moment. But for some one who has just received the bad news they would be all over it. Divco gave me a quick tour a few years ago when I dropped my parts off. They had many rows of shelves from the floor to ceiling that was packed full of cases. I'm guessing close to a thousand. A very busy shop with 40-50 employees. I also stopped by Ney's, who also had racks of cases, but he only had 2 employees appeared to be semi retired. I think I remember reading that he passed away recently.

Removing and reinstalling the affected cylinder is relatively easy and quick. It will also tell you a lot about what happened and what else is damaged. I can't imagine that would prevent lycoming from accepting it as a core.

I believe they will come in the kit with a new governor, but I'm not sure since I purchased a slightly used one. I would called Chris at PCU and ask him. He sold me the studs and a few other small parts I needed at a very reasonable price. The studs were a lycoming part and used the standard lycoming stud diameter and length nomenclature.

Here is one that sold last month for $300, but it likely needs an update which cost $100.

Courious as to why they put one of the silk threads on each side of the bolt holes in the case. They should both go around the inside of the holes.

I've been using my portable non installed Skyguardtwx for the out part to activate traffic and Stratus 2 for the in part for the last year and half. Works well and found it on eBay for $500. I'll look at installed solution when 2020 gets here, rules quit changing and more cheaper options become available.

I wander if something else broke 1st and then a piece of the broken part got on top of the cam and pushed its way out into the block when cam lob rolled over. I would asked the shop to remove the one cylinder and see what else is messed up inside. The attached picture was recently posted by another member of his 4 cylinder, but you can see how close the cam lobe is to the inside of the case. If there was a nut or any foreign metal part caught on top of the cam it would be pushed up through the case cracking and budging it upward. Perhaps it was lifted by the engine loop instead of tying the tail down? Kidding of course.

Here is a picture of the SWTA showing the countersunk screws holding it on. It also has access panel on each corner. The Lasar mod is more involved and more closely duplicates the factory 201 install including the new cowl deck. The SWTA STC just instructs you to use your existing covers as a pattern and cut a new single piece cover. It also allows adding the corner panels. When it was available it was around $900 while the laser was close to $2500 to cover the extra factory parts.

There is someone on ebay who has been selling new Navworx units for $1799.

The SWTA does not use a track to hold the window in place like the Lasar does so the 1/4" window isn't an issue. It just uses the existing screw holes from the existing window and adds screws around the top part that is cut out. I installed the last one of these that was probably installed a couple of years ago and came as 1/4" standard from SWTA. In talking with Russel he told me that although his window was manufactured for him and has his own part number (called out in the STC) it has the same contour as the factory 201 window but would require more trimming than his window as he had his window pre trimmed so less fitting was needed. He also mentioned that he was using a more optically correct grade of plexiglass.

The J models don't have the fuel pump shroud, but they have the oil cooler airflow and some additional baffling above the fuel pump that the earlier models don't have. The only time I have saw any indication of a problem is after landing with the engine hot and then having to set and idle for several minutes in warm weather. After several minutes the fuel pressure became erratic and dropped. The boost pump would bring it back up as soon as it turned on. Another concern that may not be immediately obvious may be shortened fuel pump life. The vac pump shrouds that I have saw is an aftermarket item made by Tempest. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/tempestShrouds.php

I used a pressure pot also. My engine wasn't run on a test stand, so it was even more important to me. The pressure pot will push oil all the way out to the rocker arms. It also insures the oil pump is fully primed and don't just suck air.

Yes, it's factory equipment. I asked Maxwell about it once and he said that he occasionally get planes in that has it removed and just the hose pointed at the pump. It mounts with the same 2 bolts that hold the pump on and isn't easy to mount with the engine on the plane. If you have the oil filter relocation then the supply point moves up to the baffle just in front of the #2 cylinder.

The tube circled is the fuel pump. If it hasn't been removed the fuel pump will have a shroud around it with a matching size inlet. Its in the parts manual.